Lights interfering with computers

[Colin63]

I have a Busch & Muller Ixon IQ headlight and I use a Cateye MC100W wireless computer. When the light is switched on it prevents the computer from working. Both are on the handlebars and I can't see any other way to mount them, so I was wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to insulate the computer from the interference. I really don't want to manually calculate my rides each evening.

One thought I've had as I'm typing this is to move the computer to sit on the top tube. That would put it about 15cm from the light. I wonder if that might work....

[mw3230]

There will be an optimum (and maximum) distance for the computer to be sited in relation to the sending unit on the wheel. This may restrict where you can locate it

[Tandem Man]

We have a Shimano Wireless Flightdeck on the bars of our tandem and a B&M Senso Plus mounted forward of the fork crown interferes with it,no speed or mileage reading.

Have fiddled about with it,tried moving the computer as far as able,even wrapping the light in tin foil but nothing solves it so I just live with it.

It appears that you would have to move it some distance for it not to be affected.

If I mount my GPS on the bars this also has the same effect.

If someone knows an answer,apart from going wired,I would like to know.

Ian

[Colin63]

That's useful to know, as I've just seen that Dot Bike sell the fork crown mounting for the IQ and I wondered if getting that might solve the problem. At least if I do buy it I can fit my bar bag.

[prm]

Could be?? Electromagnetic interference, EMC, from your light. Possibly generated from the power supply or circuit board/s
Try placing a magnet at various positions around the main light housing to see if there’s any improvement.
Are the computer transmitter and receiver batteries in good condition?

Ideally, position the transmitter and receiver as close as possible and vertically in line, with maximum separation between light and display.
Trying alternative makes of wireless units may help, where the frequencies and transmitting band widths are not conflicting, or, you may have to revert to a hard wired model.
It’s possible to modify and isolate most electrical appliances from RF interference by installing ferrite rings, filters and capacitors, but internal space restriction can be a problem.

Regards

[Flinders]

As far as I can find out, under current EMC regs electronic equipment ought not to interfere with other equipment, or be susceptible to such interference.

There has been chat on another thread about GPS/computer incompatibility- I'm presently trying to see if my Satmap and my Cateye computer will work properly together. They seem to work okay on a quick test at home, but until I get the Satmap bracket on the bike I won't be able to check if the computer stops the Satmap updating as I travel.

These manufacturers need to sort themselves out. It is perfectly reasonable to assume that a person using a computer might also be using other electronic equipment, and that the two shouldn't interfere with each other.

[AndyB]

I had this issue with my IQ Fly and Cateye wireless computer, even with the light mounted on the crown, the computer on the bars, and my barbag between. I ended up going wired, which has the advantage of fewer batteries.

[fausto copy]

Just had similar experience while experimenting with camera mounted on handlebars.
When in movie mode the bike computer switches off.
Didn't happen when computer was mounted on the right and camera on left.
Now happens t'other way round, although they're a bit closer together.
Try separating them a little more.

[Tandem Man]

There has been chat on another thread about GPS/computer incompatibility- I'm presently trying to see if my Satmap and my Cateye computer will work properly together. They seem to work okay on a quick test at home, but until I get the Satmap bracket on the bike I won't be able to check if the computer stops the Satmap updating as I travel.

My Satmap knocks the Flightdeck for six.

I had an e-mail fron B&M sying what the problem was and that there wasn't a cure at the minute,but I can't lay my hands on it at the moment.

Ian

[WOOLIFERKINS]

We've had a few calls about this and I had a chat with B&M at Eurobike. Basically the further up the computer food chain you go the better the screening is and the less likely it is to be interfered with by other electronic devices. It has to be said in the mails we've had the Cateye computers do crop up with regularity.

[CJ]

RF interference from the electronics that drive high power LED lights is a common problem with wireless bike computers. That and their greater battery consumption are two reasons I remain wired. A third is I already have a lighting wire to what's the problem with another?

Anyway: some lamps are better shielded than others and according to an article in last November's issue of Activ Radfahren (see the third page) B&M products are amongst the worst offenders. It is also apparent that whilst a digital signal lets the lamp come closer, it does not confer immunity.

If you want to keep the computer you need to get a different lamp. Basta Pilot Steady and Spanninga Luceo produced no interference even when close to a cheap "no-name" wireless computer. But those also produce a lot less light. For the best of both on dynamo you want the Schmidt Edelux (which is why you find a pdf of that article on their website).

[kwackers]

RF interference from the electronics that drive high power LED lights is a common problem with wireless bike computers. That and their greater battery consumption are two reasons I remain wired. A third is I already have a lighting wire to what's the problem with another?

I agree, I don't understand the fad for wireless computers. More batteries, more power.
In fact I've often wondered if given the current state of modern electronics whether a wired computer could replace the reed switch with a small coil and then use that to power the computer (a sort of impulse dynamo), add a little solar panel and a capacitor to hold power and I'm sure you'd never need another battery again.

[CJ]

I've often wondered if given the current state of modern electronics whether a wired computer could replace the reed switch with a small coil and then use that to power the computer (a sort of impulse dynamo), add a little solar panel and a capacitor to hold power and I'm sure you'd never need another battery again.

Considering that so many of us nowadays use hub dynamos, such a computer could simply tap into that! Given a setting mode for the number of AC frequency cycles per turn of the wheel (in addition to the usual circumference setting) such a battery-free computer would work with any model of hub generator. (Its tiny power demand should not significantly increase the drag, lights on or off.)

[7_lives_left]

I am not familiar with the Busch & Muller Ixon IQ. Is it powered from the dynamo?

If so, it may be that the wires contribute to the electrical noise escaping from the lamp and affecting the computer. A possible fix for that is to make sure that you use a pair of wires, power and earth, rather than have the earth connection made via the frame. Also you need to make sure that the two wires are twisted together. That really has a big effect at reducing electrical noise.

+1 for ferrites and capacitors too. Though capacitors are tricky to install, you need a soldering iron. If installing a ferrite, you want to put it on the leads close as possible to the lamp as a first guess.

[7_lives_left]

I am not familiar with the Busch & Muller Ixon IQ. Is it powered from the dynamo?

If so, it may be that the wires contribute to the electrical noise escaping from the lamp and affecting the computer. A possible fix for that is to make sure that you use a pair of wires, power and earth, rather than have the earth connection made via the frame. Also you need to make sure that the two wires are twisted together. That really has a big effect at reducing electrical noise.

+1 for ferrites and capacitors too. Though capacitors are tricky to install, you need a soldering iron. If installing a ferrite, you want to put it on the leads close as possible to the lamp as a first guess.