Cycling UK Forum

I'm running Tektro CR520 cantilever brakes, Kool Stop pads and Gore cables on my Dawes Galaxy, which is also fitted with Nitto Noodles bars and Cane Creek SCR 5 brake levers. I fitted the Tektros following a rave review by Chris Juden in 'Cycle' a year or two ago. Since then, and despite numerous tweaks, I've been unable to get the settings to my satisfaction. When using the brakes from the drops - i.e. pulling the levers - they're supremely powerful. On the hoods, however, it's a different story, with the braking power very noticeably compromised. For general use (day rides, commuting, etc.) the set-up is fine, with stopping power and distance usually adequate (though it can be a bit hairy in the wet sometimes). However, when heading downhill with the weekly shop, or on a loaded camping trip, their stopping power is at times a little too exhilarating for my liking. I'm at a loss now as to what to try next. Is the set-up I'm running (brakes, bars and levers) compatible? I've read and re-read the Tektro instructions many times and done likewise with Sheldon Brown's site. What do I have to do to get some decent braking power?

You seemed to have set the yoke a bit high in my opinion. Try lowering this to about the fork crown. Try roughening the pads with a coarse file as this should help. Your set up is identical to mine and it should give great results.

Not familiar with Cane Creek levers or Gore cables. Levers need to be "road" ie cable pull for sidepulls not "V". Do Gore cables need lube or self lubing?
Anyway, to the brakes. Draw a line from brake pivot on frame, to cable attachment on brake, to straddle bridge. You need a right angle here to get maximum leverage. On the front brake you show, you need to raise the arms to get this, so put the thin spacer between the block and the brake, and put the thick spacer outside the brake arm where the thin spacer now is, then maybe move the straddle bridge as somebody said.

Thanks.

I've now lowered the height of the cable yoke to just below the crown and reconfigured the spacers on the brake shows (ditto on the back brakes). The yoke is now a good 1 1/2" - 2" lower than it was. This has made a big difference. Thanks very much. Previously I'd only tinkered with the yoke height, making only small adjustments. By exaggerating the amount I lowered it by, the difference in performance has become much more noticeable and better. I couldn't get the angle between pivot, cable and yoke to 45 degrees but by making the above-mentioned adjustments it's better than it was.

Thanks again.

PS. The Cane Creeks are cantilever compatible and the gore cables do not require lubing.

Those arms would still benefit by having the cable clamps moved upwards ie have you looked at the spacer arrangement as suggested by 531colin above?

NewHorizon wrote:Those arms would still benefit by having the cable clamps moved upwards ie have you looked at the spacer arrangement as suggested by 531colin above?

Yes I've done that. I used to have the thick spacer between the block and the brake. Following 531colin's advice, I have reconfigured the spacers so that the thin spacer is now between the block and the brake and the thick spacer is on the outside of the brake.

I could have got the block closer to the rim, which would have moved the arms upwards, by removing one of the concave/convex spacers. However, this would have removed the ability to adjust the vertical and horizontal angle setting of the block itself. I've always believed that you need the two spacers - concave and convex to work together to allow for such adjustments. Or am I labouring under a misunderstanding?

cavasta wrote:

NewHorizon wrote:Those arms would still benefit by having the cable clamps moved upwards ie have you looked at the spacer arrangement as suggested by 531colin above?

I could have got the block closer to the rim, which would have moved the arms upwards, by removing one of the concave/convex spacers. However, this would have removed the ability to adjust the vertical and horizontal angle setting of the block itself. I've always believed that you need the two spacers - concave and convex to work together to allow for such adjustments. Or am I labouring under a misunderstanding?

You're correct. Looks like you've done all you can and, as you say, its made a big difference.

Yes, you need a concave and a convex to adjust the angle, and its better now you have the thin pair between brake block and brake arm.
But you want 90 deg not 45deg.!!!!!
Let me try again to explain;
Put a straight edge like an allen key from the frame pivot to the cable attachment of the brake arm.
You want the straddle cable to make a 90deg. angle with that straight edge when the brake is on - that gives best leverage.

Cavasta
Have you tried moving the centre yolk back to its original position ie;higher, therebye (as 531colin says)giving a 90deg angle(or atleast closer to)between a line drawn along canti pivot/cable anchor on canti arm axis and straddle wire axis.

reohn2 wrote:Cavasta
Have you tried moving the centre yolk back to its original position ie;higher, therebye (as 531colin says)giving a 90deg angle(or atleast closer to)between a line drawn along canti pivot/cable anchor on canti arm axis and straddle wire axis.

No I haven't. I'll try that next weekend when I've got some more spare time. In the meantime I'll assess the improvements I've already made during my daily commute.

Thanks to all who've contributed, it's much appreciated.

cavasta wrote:I'm running Tektro CR520 cantilever brakes, Kool Stop pads and Gore cables

Which Koolstops?
The ones that get recommended all the time are the salmon, which those don't appear to be. I find they make a lot of difference and are kinder to rims. Only downsides are the price and lower longevity.

PH wrote: Which Koolstops?
The ones that get recommended all the time are the salmon, which those don't appear to be. I find they make a lot of difference and are kinder to rims. Only downsides are the price and lower longevity.

These from Wiggle:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Kool_Stop_V-Brake_Dual_Compound_Pair_Of_Inserts/5300005946/

cavasta wrote:

PH wrote: Which Koolstops?
The ones that get recommended all the time are the salmon, which those don't appear to be. I find they make a lot of difference and are kinder to rims. Only downsides are the price and lower longevity.

These from Wiggle:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Kool_Stop_V-Brake_Dual_Compound_Pair_Of_Inserts/5300005946/

OK, they should be fine, they're half salmon.

531colin wrote:Yes, you need a concave and a convex to adjust the angle, and its better now you have the thin pair between brake block and brake arm.
But you want 90 deg not 45deg.!!!!!
Let me try again to explain;
Put a straight edge like an allen key from the frame pivot to the cable attachment of the brake arm.
You want the straddle cable to make a 90deg. angle with that straight edge when the brake is on - that gives best leverage.

Colin, as I'm expecting to be trying to install my first set of CR520's soon, this is fascinating, but I'm finding it quite hard to visualise. Is there anywhere that shows this via pictures or video, or do you have any piccies you could annotate? Also do cantis have the same positional 3 pin option for the spring on the boss/pivot as v brakes do?(apologies if terminology is muddled there).

The 3 holes are in the frame, so if they move about we are all in trouble!
Unfortunately I have absolutely no idea how to get pictures/diagrams onto a computer, but the guy who posted this has put lots of shots of his bike on.
Ill have to get lessons off my kids when they visit.