DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

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songsforpolarbears
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DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby songsforpolarbears » 13 Aug 2010, 4:32pm

Hi everyone,

In this topic I intend to 'chart the progress' of my 2005 Kona Smoke. I intend to improve it over the years and I will update this topic with any improvements I do make. I also know I'll be fishing for heaps of advice from the knowledgable people on this extremely useful forum. So, can I say now: many, many thanks to anyone that contributes. I will appreciate it and my time spent biking will be more fun as a result of contributions, I am sure.

I feel it important to state I am mainly a minor road or cycle track rider. I ride mainly at the weekends. With others. 20-30 miles at a leisurely pace but a few fun races thrown in there. Although I have also completed the C2C cycle route 3 times, Hadrian's cycle route, Glasgow to Fort William and Penrith to Scarborough. So there is a time, usually once a year, where I need to load up those panniers and prepare for a long day in the saddle.

Now, may I introduce Mr. K. Smoke:
1.jpg


I think the first thing on my list should be to give it a good clean:
3.jpg

4.jpg
Image Attachments
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songsforpolarbears
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby songsforpolarbears » 13 Aug 2010, 4:45pm

Some more photos:
2.jpg

6 brake.jpg

7 chain.jpg


My pannier rack held on by cable ties:
rack.jpg


And my Schwalbe 26x1.5 tyres, which I LOVE. I got them to replace the original thick (2.25, if my memory serves) tyres because they didn't suit my needs. I noticed a difference with the thinner Schwalbes. I good get even thinner ones, but I'm worried about my bike being too heavy for thinner tyres when I have my panniers fully packed.
schwalbe tyre.jpg


(That value was straight when I started blowing up the tyre! I made a point of checking it! But, as you can see it went wonky when the tyre got fully pumped. Grrr.)

As you have probably already guessed, I'm not an experienced bike owner. Although I cycled a lot, my Dad always looked after the up keep of the bikes when I was growing up. Now I need to learn! There is going to be no high end improvements here. Everything will be done on a budget. And love and enthusiasm.

Many thanks if you've stuck with my rambling and read this far.

TwoPlusTen
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby TwoPlusTen » 13 Aug 2010, 4:50pm

So far so good. I think you should open up a competition - name the bike.

I offer Bandit.

cjchambers
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby cjchambers » 13 Aug 2010, 5:08pm

songsforpolarbears wrote:(That value was straight when I started blowing up the tyre! I made a point of checking it! But, as you can see it went wonky when the tyre got fully pumped. Grrr.)

If I were you, I'd get that sorted out as soon as possible. Wonky or wobbly valves have a tendency to come away from the tube in an irreparable way, so you'll be left 'high and dry' unless you carry a spare tube as well as a repair kit! (I learned this the hard way :( )

songsforpolarbears
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby songsforpolarbears » 14 Aug 2010, 1:02pm

Thanks for the replies, guys.

cjchambers wrote:
songsforpolarbears wrote:(That value was straight when I started blowing up the tyre! I made a point of checking it! But, as you can see it went wonky when the tyre got fully pumped. Grrr.)

If I were you, I'd get that sorted out as soon as possible. Wonky or wobbly valves have a tendency to come away from the tube in an irreparable way, so you'll be left 'high and dry' unless you carry a spare tube as well as a repair kit! (I learned this the hard way :( )


Right, thanks. Any tips to ensure the value stays straight? Like I say, I did try and keep an eye on it while pumping up the tyre. Maybe I just need to keep a closer eye while pumping!

songsforpolarbears
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby songsforpolarbears » 27 Aug 2010, 2:23pm

I have noticed that my front brake catches on the mudguard (as shown in pic).

The brake still works, but it shouldn't really be rubbing on the mudguard, should it?

DSCN2459.JPG

I can think of two options:

1, buy brake with longer arms

2, file the stay* of the mudguard, so the mudguard sits a little lower (without hitting the tyres, of course).

Any other options? Any advice which of the above to do?

Thanks!

* I think i have the correct terminology there. 'Stay'. The part of the mudguard that the bolt goes through and attaches to the fork.

snibgo
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby snibgo » 27 Aug 2010, 5:58pm

I think the "stay" is the long wire-like piece that goes from the mudguard to the fork near the hub. The small piece that bolts to the fork crown is a "bracket". Having a brake rub on the mudguard isn't good: the brake may be less efficient, and something will wear through.

Re wonky valves: Before I pump up, I check the valve position. If it isn't perpendicular to the rim, I push and tug the tyre around the rim until it is. You should be able to correct the position by deflating, and pushing the tyre around. Probably easiest with the wheel off.

iandriver
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby iandriver » 27 Aug 2010, 8:05pm

Given those mudgurds don't have breakaways, I'd bin em. The front mudguard is not atached to the fork in the pic. DO NOT RIDE THIS in that state.

Ditch the guards, clean and lube and you should have a competent enough bike.

PS, do update please, always nice to see a project come together,and good luck. :D
Supporter of the A10 corridor cycling campaign serving Royston to Cambridge http://a10corridorcycle.com. Never knew gardening secateurs were an essential part of the on bike tool kit until I took up campaigning.....

songsforpolarbears
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby songsforpolarbears » 28 Aug 2010, 2:23pm

Thanks guys; all good stuff.

I realise the front mudguard 'stay' (thanks Snibgo ;) )is not attached to the fork in the photos. I was half through fiddling with them when I took the photo. Attached now, though!

What are 'breakaways' in relation to mudguards?

I'd rather not ditch the mudguards as I do find them practical and helpful. But 'clean and lube'; check. I realise I need to clean. Didn't realise I needed to lube anything (the chain?), but I expect I'll come across that more when I look into how to clean my bike. I really need to get round to that.

As ever, thanks so much for your input, folks.

songsforpolarbears
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby songsforpolarbears » 19 Sep 2010, 5:05pm

Purchased a Joe Blow Sport II track pump this week. As a result my tyres are pumped up to 80 PSI (that what it said on the tyre). Some people on this forum pump to a higher PSI, right? I think I've heard 120 PSI here and there? Do more expensive tyres allow a higher PSI? My tyres are Schwalbe (sp) City Jet.

One of my inner tubes has a puncture repaired. Without glue/cement. Just an instant sticky patch. Would a high PSI cause this tube to fail, do you think? I guess time will tell...

Introducing my new friend. (Everything in the house that inflates has been pumped up; I hope the kids don't break their necks heading the football.)
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Last edited by songsforpolarbears on 14 May 2012, 11:32pm, edited 1 time in total.

Big T
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby Big T » 20 Sep 2010, 8:21am

Generally, only narrow tyres are rated for higher pressures - 23mm, 25mm. Yours are much wider, about 40mm, and tyres wider than 32mm are typically rated up to about 85 psi, which is plenty.
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reohn2
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby reohn2 » 20 Sep 2010, 8:51am

Regarding tyre pressures,you shouldn't need anywhere near 80psi in 1.5in(40mm) tyre 65 to 70psi is enough for a solo.When we had a Thorn Discovery tandem with the same size tyres as yours we ran them at 80psi front and 85psi rear,and that was with two people onboard!
The pressure on the tyre wall is a maximum pressure but seldom do you need that much air in.
You mention some people using much higher tyre pressures,these are for much smaller section tyres than yours ie;I ride a 25mm section tyre @ 90psi rear and 85front which is enough for me,I weigh 80kgs.

You mention cleaning and lubing up thread,I usually wash my bikes with car wash'n'wax I use soft brush from a brush and dustpan set for the frame etc,and proper old type scrubbing brush for the wheel rims,tyres and spokes,you can get these from a hardware shop or supermarket.For the chain and drivetrain Muck off applied with a 2inch paint brush then washed off with water.Method for washing is, hose down first to remove crud and grit, wash with brushes then hose down again to remove soap.Then squirt all the pivot points,jockey wheels mechs etc with GT85 to chase out any water,lube the chain with TF2,if you want a really clean chain search chain cleaning in search facility.
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songsforpolarbears
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby songsforpolarbears » 6 Oct 2013, 6:50pm

Hello everyone,

I was hoping for some advice...

I think this bicycle needs a new chain wheel, chain, cassette and also bottom bracket.

I purchased the bike for £220 in 2006.

The two wheels are new (a year old): the rear one I have made myself :) and the front one has a dynamo hub.

I thought it may be a better idea to purchase a new bike and swap the wheels over?

Thank you!

Brucey
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby Brucey » 6 Oct 2013, 7:54pm

those parts are 'consumables'; not normally a reason for getting a new bike.

I'd suggest a new chain and cassette to start with ( worn chainrings need to be incredibly bad -much worse than sprockets- before they need changing) and see how you go.

cheers
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cycle cat
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Re: DIARY: 2005 Kona Smoke, by a B-road/cycle track cyclist

Postby cycle cat » 7 Oct 2013, 9:51pm

I am surprised no one has mentioned your rear rack.
It really isn't a good idea to attach it with cable ties.
It looks a rather flimsy affair too. Anything attached to it could end up in your rear wheel and cause a nasty accident.

If you want to carry stuff, get something more substantial and bolt it to the bike.
Thank goodness for soup.