main/dipped beam...

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Raph
Posts: 637
Joined: 13 Mar 2007, 8:14pm
Location: Banbury

main/dipped beam...

Post by Raph »

Finally got a workable main/dipped beam system going, after giving up on all sorts of ideas from tilting lamp brackets to a mirror pivotting in front of the light...

Dipped:
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Main & switch:
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Aerial view:
Image

It's a bit Heath Robinson but it's all solid. The switch I had to hand is totally unsuitable but I've got a heftier waterproof one coming in the post. I'll probably solder all the connections, as spade connectors usually corrode in the wet. It all needs tidying up but a short blast round the lanes was pretty successful - the edelux beam cuts off very sharply at the horizon so you don't see anything but the road, the solidlights is good for distance and lighting up trees, walls, houses though none of it is quite as bright per sq ft as the Edelux.

The switching between the two is superb - The switch is positioned to be easily flicked by a thumb, and I reckon a toggle that sticks out is better than a rocker switch. From main to dipped the solidlights goes off instantly, but from dipped to main the Edelux stays on for another second or two, then reverts to its standlight.

The Solidlights unclips but the Edelux is permanently fixed, hopefully it won't get ripped off...

Also, it's the recent version of the solidlights, the XB2, not the original which by today's standards was feeble.

I did try the two lights in series but the solidlights flickers and generally doesn't really cope, I assume the Edelux works on less current so limits it to less than the solidlights needs - in short it's either/or. With another light that's better matched to the Edelux I expect it would be possible to have a simpler system where the lights are in series and both lit at speed, and the second light is simply shorted out to get the dipped beam only.

I don't want to try the lights in series as I don't know what current the hub will cope with and I find anyway that with the solidlights on, the Edelux doesn't really add much so better not to push any boundaries, the switching is simply either/or.

Cost-wise this system's a joke, I only have all these bits cos I got them one by one, but if you already have a Schmidt and a single front light then fitting another light and a switch isn't going to be a huge cost. It's obviously for the nerdily-orientated, but I did get fed up of having to shield the front light with my hand every time an oncoming car appeared.


PS that ugly stuff on the back of the solidlights (I mean, even uglier than the solidlights itself), involves a long story - don't ask!
PW
Posts: 4519
Joined: 23 Jan 2007, 10:50am
Location: N. Derbys.

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by PW »

I'm tempted to try a pair of IQ Cyo lamps in series with a switched bypass shorting out the secondary (high beam) light. Not strictly necessary but it would be fun on the 953 doing 50mph down Cutthorpe Grange in the small hours. :twisted:
If at first you don't succeed - cheat!!
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andrew_s
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Joined: 7 Jan 2007, 9:29pm
Location: Gloucestershire

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by andrew_s »

I did contemplate using an Edelux and a Solidlight as main/dipped by taping a light pipe from the Edelux light sensor to just in front of the Solidlight.
No switches required. I never got round to it though.
Another plan was to rig a section cut from one of those A4 page magnifiers so it could be flipped up in front of the Solidlight. This would bend the whole beam downwards. Also never got further than buying the magnifier and trying it out held in front of the light. It did give a decent deflection.

One that I actually did use was an Edelux always on, plus a Magicshine main beam that was on or off as required.
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gentlegreen
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Joined: 23 Aug 2010, 1:58pm
Location: Bristol
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Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by gentlegreen »

Here's my solution :-

A replica Lucas dip switch and an assortment of domestic Cree-based MR16s with "tweaked" beam patterns :mrgreen:

Image

The horn button currently only flashes the 48 LED light...

Image

(the yoghurt carton hoods are missing in this photo)
PW
Posts: 4519
Joined: 23 Jan 2007, 10:50am
Location: N. Derbys.

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by PW »

The one I had was a pair of coal miners helmet lamps overvolted from a 6V gel cell. That would make a car dip from a good 200 yards. The IQ Cyo/Schmidt combination weighs less, the illumination is better out to about ...oh 70 yards ish but there's no high/low beam option which would be a bit more flexible, especially on a commute which involves disused railway trails and some fast downhill road work.
If at first you don't succeed - cheat!!
Raph
Posts: 637
Joined: 13 Mar 2007, 8:14pm
Location: Banbury

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by Raph »

gentlegreen - I love the set up! Is that with batteries or a dynamo?

Hopefully soon someone'll design a front light with the main and dipped beams within the same unit, with a remote switch on a lead - save us all the faffing, and no doubt skint us in the process (so we'll carry on faffing rather than spend the money!)
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gentlegreen
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Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by gentlegreen »

Raph wrote:gentlegreen - I love the set up! Is that with batteries or a dynamo?


12 volt, 3,7AH NiMH

My system is now 20 watts total - including tail light. Down from 42 watts and a 12volt 7AH lead acid battery 15 years ago ...
snibgo
Posts: 4604
Joined: 29 Jun 2010, 4:45am

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by snibgo »

Raph wrote:I don't want to try the lights in series as I don't know what current the hub will cope with ...

Do you mean "parallel" rather than "series"?

Raph wrote:I'll probably solder all the connections, as spade connectors usually corrode in the wet.

In either case, I recommend smearing a thick coat of silicone sealant around all connections. It keeps the water out a treat, but easily peels off for maintenance.
Raph
Posts: 637
Joined: 13 Mar 2007, 8:14pm
Location: Banbury

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by Raph »

snibgo wrote:
Raph wrote:I don't want to try the lights in series as I don't know what current the hub will cope with ...

Do you mean "parallel" rather than "series"?


Yes absolutely! Brain connections obviously not quite soldered to typing fingers there - I did mean parallel.

snibgo wrote:
Raph wrote:I'll probably solder all the connections, as spade connectors usually corrode in the wet.

In either case, I recommend smearing a thick coat of silicone sealant around all connections. It keeps the water out a treat, but easily peels off for maintenance.


Good idea, thanks. Any particular sort? When I've done that in the past it has tended to peel off by itself, though still worth doing. I've fitted the proper chunky switch now with a rubber cover, and I was wondering about spraying some sort of sealant all over the back of the switch. I suppose bathroom sealant might do it if i get it all the way round and it's one continuous layer.
snibgo
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Joined: 29 Jun 2010, 4:45am

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by snibgo »

For example, Loctite "Clear Silicone Sealant", but I've used other brands from car maintenance shops, and haven't noticed any difference. Bathroom sealant may be formulated differently, as bathroom fittings don't move around and flex as much as bike or car wiring.

By "thick coat", I mean that I ensure all gaps are filled, then smear round everything about 2mm thick, tapering down to zero in a length of about 25mm along wires, all in one coat. This kept connections good on an old Land Rover for ten years until I sold her.

Thicker coats on flexible items might tend to self-peel, I suppose.
Raph
Posts: 637
Joined: 13 Mar 2007, 8:14pm
Location: Banbury

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by Raph »

I'll give Loctite stuff a go - thanks.

Funnily enough I have an old land rover, that carries a considerable amount of sealant!
snibgo
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Joined: 29 Jun 2010, 4:45am

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by snibgo »

Bike and old Landies seem to go together. Something about the lack of weather protection on each, or ease of maintenance, or something.
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CREPELLO
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Joined: 29 Nov 2008, 12:55am

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by CREPELLO »

With these excellent Fly/Cyo/Edulux lights, there is less need for a main/dipped set up. I suplement my Fly and Cyo if absolutely necessary with an Ultrafire UF-015 torch, powered by a 18650 li-ion, 3600 mAh battery feeding a P7 900 lumen rated LED (althogh it's not due to being under-volted, it's still very bright).

It's easy to switch on and off and when on you're getting the power of both lights :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Raph
Posts: 637
Joined: 13 Mar 2007, 8:14pm
Location: Banbury

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by Raph »

That's roughly the format I was using before - Solidlights powered by the dynamo, usually pointed fairly downwards, and a Lumicycle LED3 or iBlaast on the bars to flick on and off as needed. The Solidlights wasn't much good as a dipped beam though, too much spill, which is what I really like about it the rest of the time. Anyway what I wanted on this bike was not to have to take lights on and off - which I still haven't got as I have to take the Solidlights off when locking up but at least that's only half the hassle of a light and battery, plus no charging hassle.

I'll do a few rides before concluding it's my dream system...
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CREPELLO
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Joined: 29 Nov 2008, 12:55am

Re: main/dipped beam...

Post by CREPELLO »

Raph wrote:That's roughly the format I was using before - Solidlights powered by the dynamo, usually pointed fairly downwards, and a Lumicycle LED3 or iBlaast on the bars to flick on and off as needed. The Solidlights wasn't much good as a dipped beam though, too much spill, which is what I really like about it the rest of the time. Anyway what I wanted on this bike was not to have to take lights on and off - which I still haven't got as I have to take the Solidlights off when locking up but at least that's only half the hassle of a light and battery, plus no charging hassle.

I'll do a few rides before concluding it's my dream system...

Why don't you make the Solid lights permanent? I'd did this on mine by cutting off the release tab on the mounting bracket. You can still release the light discreetly by sliding a flat edge into the remaining slot, so it's not obvious to the oportunist. The allen screw head? - just fill in with some epoxy once the set up is perfected.
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