Fitting a Chainset

[pubrunner]

Hi All,

I'm fitting a new square taper chainset and my query is this;

Should I put grease on the bottom bracket spindle shaft - the part onto which the chainset fits ? (Some websites seem to recommend 'dry' fitting) - might this not make them difficult to remove at some later date ?

Which grease would be best - lithium, copper or something else.

Also, which would be the best grease to put on the crank bolts ?

I've never fitted a crank/chainset before, so I'd appreciate any advice.

Thank you

[Malaconotus]

I fitted mine 'dry' per manufacturer's advice, but Jobst Brandt on Sheldon's site says it should be greased... http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

Graham

[Mick F]

This is one of the longest running arguments!

The Campag instructions are to assemble dry, so that's what I do with mine.
As for the bolts, I always use copper grease on all my bolts, so that's what they get too.

[pubrunner]

This is one of the longest running arguments!

The Campag instructions are to assemble dry, so that's what I do with mine.
As for the bolts, I always use copper grease on all my bolts, so that's what they get too.

Cheers for that Mick - I'm fitting Campag. I was just worried that the lack of grease might make them difficult to remove at some later date ?

[herzog]

I too also assemble my Campag dry. I've not had a problem yet (touch wood)

Herzog

[tooley92]

I have never greased the tapers on a bottom bracket but always use copper grease on the bolts, never had one stick-yet!

[MikewsMITH2]

I always grease 'em. Never had a problem, but there are plenty of people on this forum complaining they can't remove the cranks, so greasing is better IMO. Remember Mick F takes his off for regular maintenance, but some people leave them on for years on salty roads etc so the alu bonds to the steel.

[Gearoidmuar]

Whatever about the square taper, which I don't usually grease, it's better in my experience to grease the chainring bolts as they're less likely to creak under pressure, at least that's what I believe.

[niggle]

I use copper grease, I have had some difficulty removing them on old bikes or the children's BSOs in the past (none of these are Campag of course). Whilst on the subject, how tight do people do the bolt up, anyone use a torque wrench? I have not cracked one yet or had one work loose that I have previously tightened, but am worried about how close to the limit I might be getting.

[reohn2]

My 2d's worth,grease the tapers(because it won't do any harm and it may do a whole lot of good) and bolts with copper grease,tighten the bolts tight (I've never used a torque wrench on a bicycle) ride for 50miles or so then check the tightness,after that check them once a month or so.

[NUKe]

I'm in the grease camp. I always use copper slip. BB are steel and chainsets are aluminium so there is a corrosive reactiion between them. Copper provides a sacrificial anode and stops slows the reaction. It's the same reaction that causes seatposts to stick over time. Other option is just to remove the Chainset occasionally.

[NUKe]

I use copper grease, I have had some difficulty removing them on old bikes or the children's BSOs in the past (none of these are Campag of course). Whilst on the subject, how tight do people do the bolt up, anyone use a torque wrench? I have not cracked one yet or had one work loose that I have previously tightened, but am worried about how close to the limit I might be getting.

Yes I use a torque wrench. If I have a spec for a prticular chainset I use that. If not I use 35lb/ft

[PW]

I always grease. Anyone remember how many threads we've had about removing seized cranks? I must have posted the 3 arm bearing puller a couple of dozen times.

[reohn2]

I always grease. Anyone remember how many threads we've had about removing seized cranks? I must have posted the 3 arm bearing puller a couple of dozen times.

That just about sums it up IMO!

[Mick F]

Think about best practice in the engineering world ......

What about a taper on a pillar drill?
Collets on a lathe?
Propellers on a drive shaft?

.... hundreds of examples.

You don't grease them, you need a good solid connection. Same as the taper on a crank. Nice and dry and solid.

Yes, the engineering fittings get taken off for changes of tooling, and that's what you should do with all your bicycle fittings. Take 'em off now and again to stop them seizing on permanently.