Does anyone know how to service these?
I can't find any instructions on the web. I'm OK servicing hubs so if these are cone and bearing pedals I just need to know the bearing size. Otherwise, if they are sealed cartridge bearings does anyone know where I cam get replacements? I've had these for about twelve years now and haven't done anything to them other then a light spray of WD40 on the cleat spring. They work fine now but I'm planning ahead for problems (probably on the way to work!).
Time Atac Alium pedals.
Re: Time Atac Alium pedals.
I'm only a (very) amateur mechanic, but I had one start to sieze up a year or so ago, (about 8 years old), I took out the circlip then prized out the seal, then persuaded the spindle with a piece of wood and a hammer, there was a small ball race and a plain bush at the outer end, WD40 then a regrease. don't now if this is much help.
Rob.
Rob.
Re: Time Atac Alium pedals.
First generation Alium (late 90s) had terrible weather sealing and woukd sieze up. Next generation ones loooked the same but had better seals and I've had no problems with them.
The Aliums use the axle as a plain bearing and have an outrigger ball race on the end.
To service these pedals -
1. Remove the end cap which is the black plastic bit with an allen key hole in the middle or a ring of holes around the outside according to the age of the pedals.
2. Hold pedal axle in a vice and undo the nylock nut which will need a long 10mm socket.
3. Using a drift of some sort (I use a big screw) hammer on the end of the axle until it breaks free from the pedal and pops out at the crank end. This can take a surprising amount of effort. It might be better to leave the nut loose in place while doing this, although I've never damaged an axle.
4. You are then left with the bearing race in the pedal body. It is not a tight fit and can be removed by springing the simple wire circlip to allow the race to drop out.
5. Flush and lubricate the bearing. I doubt you will find a replacement and I also doubt you need to. These are really crude bearings.
6. Remove any hint of corrossion from the pedal axle (the plain bearing) and from inside the pedal itself. Liberally grease the axle and reassemble the pedal. Do not worry about overtightening the nyloc, you cannot because it has a positive stop.
At the more expensive end of the Time MTB pedal range you would find bearing races at both ends and the axle not being used as a plain bearing. That was a few years ago. These days even the expensive end of the range uses the plain bearing although now it runs in a plastic sleeve inside the pedal.
The Aliums use the axle as a plain bearing and have an outrigger ball race on the end.
To service these pedals -
1. Remove the end cap which is the black plastic bit with an allen key hole in the middle or a ring of holes around the outside according to the age of the pedals.
2. Hold pedal axle in a vice and undo the nylock nut which will need a long 10mm socket.
3. Using a drift of some sort (I use a big screw) hammer on the end of the axle until it breaks free from the pedal and pops out at the crank end. This can take a surprising amount of effort. It might be better to leave the nut loose in place while doing this, although I've never damaged an axle.
4. You are then left with the bearing race in the pedal body. It is not a tight fit and can be removed by springing the simple wire circlip to allow the race to drop out.
5. Flush and lubricate the bearing. I doubt you will find a replacement and I also doubt you need to. These are really crude bearings.
6. Remove any hint of corrossion from the pedal axle (the plain bearing) and from inside the pedal itself. Liberally grease the axle and reassemble the pedal. Do not worry about overtightening the nyloc, you cannot because it has a positive stop.
At the more expensive end of the Time MTB pedal range you would find bearing races at both ends and the axle not being used as a plain bearing. That was a few years ago. These days even the expensive end of the range uses the plain bearing although now it runs in a plastic sleeve inside the pedal.
Re: Time Atac Alium pedals.
As tatanab says. Except the last pair I stripped down didn't have the circlip retaining the bearing. I've had about 4 pairs of these and every set seems to incorporate a design change. I have to say that as the price has remained constant in about 12 years, the quality has reduced to compensate (current set will be my last!). My experience is that the bearing (sealed, unserviceable) doesn't seem to wear appreciably - the problem is with the inboard nylon bushing. Once there is play in that, they are throw-away items.
Re: Time Atac Alium pedals.
The Aliums I had lasted a shade over 3,000 miles before that little bearing fell apart completely. I'd re-greased them twice before that. I'm running an ancient pair of the carbons which are close to 12,000 miles old. They're past their best but I hope to be riding them still at Easter. The current ATAC Roc seems ok, the pair I had were put aside for spares after I bent the offside axle in a black ice slide, winter before last but the bearings were still perfect long past the Alium mileage.
Incidentally, possibly one for CJ - regardless of make and model, why does the left pedal always fall apart before the right? I've given up saving the survivor because unless there's an accidental destruction as above I can never make a pair!
Incidentally, possibly one for CJ - regardless of make and model, why does the left pedal always fall apart before the right? I've given up saving the survivor because unless there's an accidental destruction as above I can never make a pair!
If at first you don't succeed - cheat!!