Odd old Dawes? 1-Down? What is this?

[vipvop]

Picked up and a nice day visiting friends in Sheffield. Ebay tourism.

Condition on the whole not bad for age. Worst bits are that the bolt holes for the lowrider are sleeveless (assuming once threaded for M5?) and a braze-on mount has broken off the rear drop out. I read of these breaking on another 1-down so maybe a weak point. The rust doesn't seem that bad though with not much metal lost. One set of bottle mounts have seized and couple of spacers have fused to the steerer.

It's a really nice bike, lighter than expected and fun to ride despite the cramped ride position. Nothing that a steerer extender and longer stem can't fix though .. hopefully. There's enough frame clearance with the 2.2 tires to cope with a moderate buckle on the rear and tons of room on the front. No chance of a mudguard on the back though without changing the tire.

[colin54]

Hi vipvop,Welcome to the forum.


I see Bob Jackson's will braze on a pair of rack bosses for £30 if you decide to have that one repaired,(just to give you an idea of the cost of a repair).

I run 1-1/2'' Marathons on my 1-Down framed bike and there's acres of mudguard clearance with those, it came with 2'' Schwalbe Big

Apples with mudguards fitted.It Depends what you want to use it for of course but , Schwalbe Landcruisers get good reports for a

mixed use on/off road tyre. I'm tempted to get a set in 1.75'' next time I have to change tyres (and they're cheap ).

I hope you have fun with it whatever ,my other two bike get very little use as the 1-Down is such a 'go anywhere' bike.

http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/frame-repairs/

[mercalia]

Picked up and a nice day visiting friends in Sheffield. Ebay tourism.

Condition on the whole not bad for age. Worst bits are that the bolt holes for the lowrider are sleeveless (assuming once threaded for M5?) and a braze-on mount has broken off the rear drop out. I read of these breaking on another 1-down so maybe a weak point. The rust doesn't seem that bad though with not much metal lost. One set of bottle mounts have seized and couple of spacers have fused to the steerer.

It's a really nice bike, lighter than expected and fun to ride despite the cramped ride position. Nothing that a steerer extender and longer stem can't fix though .. hopefully. There's enough frame clearance with the 2.2 tires to cope with a moderate buckle on the rear and tons of room on the front. No chance of a mudguard on the back though without changing the tire.

if you cant get a decent length steerer extension in the UK. Rose Cycles in Germany have some own brand ones incl a very long one ( that I got )

https://www.rosebikes.com/product/detail/aid:721079

[mercalia]

Hi vipvop,Welcome to the forum.


I see Bob Jackson's will braze on a pair of rack bosses for £30 if you decide to have that one repaired,(just to give you an idea of the cost of a repair).

I run 1-1/2'' Marathons on my 1-Down framed bike and there's acres of mudguard clearance with those, it came with 2'' Schwalbe Big

Apples with mudguards fitted.It Depends what you want to use it for of course but , Schwalbe Landcruisers get good reports for a

mixed use on/off road tyre. I'm tempted to get a set in 1.75'' next time I have to change tyres (and they're cheap ).

I hope you have fun with it whatever ,my other two bike get very little use as the 1-Down is such a 'go anywhere' bike.

http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/frame-repairs/

I use Marathon 1.75" and my rear mudguard just about ok never have used any other size. seems about right and comfort fine. with my weight 60 rear and 50 front, just enough stiffness to feel the road

[vipvop]

Thanks, Woodrups are round the corner and I'll get it brazed when I strip the frame and treat the rust. It will live like this for a while though.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/20994304@N00/33020222551/in/dateposted-public/

[mercalia]

well given the low price you paid you can afford to spend some on eg better wheels, which seem odds and sods at the moment.

[vipvop]

well given the low price you paid you can afford to spend some on eg better wheels, which seem odds and sods at the moment.

Not obvious from the pics, but the wheels have been built with double butted stainless spokes (both 36) and there's little or no rim wear and no bearing play.

Will save money for trips away but will probably invest in Schwalbe and Tubus. http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ Marathons score surprisingly well (Vittoria Randonneur suprisingly badly!)

[colin54]

(Vittoria Randonneur suprisingly badly!)

Randonneur ' Pro's 11' are the quicker ones compared to the Marathon Greenguard, flexier side walls than the ordinary Randonneurs,

some reviews here.I have a feeling they are being discontinued though, I don't see them on the Vittoria site any more.



http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/vitt ... prod124106

[vipvop]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dawes-1-Down-Toiuring-Bike-/291968083803?hash=item43faa7675b%3Ag%3AjxsAAOSwImRYS-nG&nma=true&si=O45z%252FYwlr%252FVMQauNuGtEqXEJ3uk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

(Perhaps of little interest to anyone else) I'm sure this is the same bike previously listed on ebay, which was ridden from Argentina to Alaska. There's identical wear and tear on the 631 sticker and the same missing braze-on. So it's made its way back to Leeds.

[Braindrain]

Hi All, well I've nearly got my new 1 down frame built up. It's been slower than planned due to a house move, but I have a double garage/bike shed now. At 5' 9" and a bit the 53cm fame is the limit of what I would ride on the road regarding standover clearance. I know it's not the most important measurement but I have had a painful experience in the past
With that frame size I'm not showing masses of seat post compared to an MTB. I'm building it up with some sti drop levers which were a bargain on eBay at £17 and some old LX cantillever brakes from my Rockhopper. The rest is new including some nice handmade wheels from Nidderdale cycles on eBay, who also sorted me out some suitable forks at a good price.
It's all gone quite well apart from the front derailleur/ chainset combo. The Claris front mech only just clears the 48t chainring (Spa xd2 copy triple chain set £35!) with the band clamp right up against the lower bottle cage mount. I'm not sure how much extra room I'd gain with fitting a 46t big ring. So it looks like my options are to find a front mech with a lower clamp that also works with sti drops, or fit an mtb front mech with lower clamp and use jtec shift mate, or to try it with a 46 ring (or go the bar end shifter route with all mtb group set). I want the option of using all the bottle cages, so this is a bit of an unforeseen problem. I've spent more than planned so would appreciate advice on how to resolve this fix. Is anyone else running sti drop shifters with 28/38/48 and if so what front derailleur are you using? Has anyone got a 46t chainring they can measure against a 48t and let me know the diameter difference? Thanks guys.

[mercalia]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dawes-1-Down-Toiuring-Bike-/291968083803?hash=item43faa7675b%3Ag%3AjxsAAOSwImRYS-nG&nma=true&si=O45z%252FYwlr%252FVMQauNuGtEqXEJ3uk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

(Perhaps of little interest to anyone else) I'm sure this is the same bike previously listed on ebay, which was ridden from Argentina to Alaska. There's identical wear and tear on the 631 sticker and the same missing braze-on. So it's made its way back to Leeds.

thanks for posting this. I didn't know about that sale. shows the bike can do the miles? and come back home. must be the most travelled one down . should have been bought back by dawes and put in a museum

[mercalia]

Hi All, well I've nearly got my new 1 down frame built up. It's been slower than planned due to a house move, but I have a double garage/bike shed now. At 5' 9" and a bit the 53cm fame is the limit of what I would ride on the road regarding standover clearance. I know it's not the most important measurement but I have had a painful experience in the past
With that frame size I'm not showing masses of seat post compared to an MTB. I'm building it up with some sti drop levers which were a bargain on eBay at £17 and some old LX cantillever brakes from my Rockhopper. The rest is new including some nice handmade wheels from Nidderdale cycles on eBay, who also sorted me out some suitable forks at a good price.
It's all gone quite well apart from the front derailleur/ chainset combo. The Claris front mech only just clears the 48t chainring (Spa xd2 copy triple chain set £35!) with the band clamp right up against the lower bottle cage mount. I'm not sure how much extra room I'd gain with fitting a 46t big ring. So it looks like my options are to find a front mech with a lower clamp that also works with sti drops, or fit an mtb front mech with lower clamp and use jtec shift mate, or to try it with a 46 ring (or go the bar end shifter route with all mtb group set). I want the option of using all the bottle cages, so this is a bit of an unforeseen problem. I've spent more than planned so would appreciate advice on how to resolve this fix. Is anyone else running sti drop shifters with 28/38/48 and if so what front derailleur are you using? Has anyone got a 46t chainring they can measure against a 48t and let me know the diameter difference? Thanks guys.

this probably wont help you much. But the orginal sti dawes used the 46/36/26 blue lettered ( 21 speed triple ) chainset with the black lettered later ( 24 speed triple ) derailleurs and sti units. The front derailleur clearly was designed for a bigger chainset and works fine. Hard to source the black lettered parts as the 8 speed RSX wasnt available for long I think, the blue lettered parts turn up quite often on Ebay but the front derailleur of the blue series I dont think any good.

[le.voyageur]

braindrain, I had to calc chainring sizes on a build and found this to be accurate.
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/ques ... r-of-teeth

scroll down the page till you get to the section that starts.

"EDIT:
I posted this question on math.se, and got an interesting answer, which basically confirms"

Essentially you only need a few figures to calculate it yourself, teeth, pitch and then divide by PI to get the diameter.
You could do this calc for your existing chainring and then double check it against the chainring. Also this is to the tip of the chainring so what you actually need if you're considering clearance for FD or chainstay etc.

actually I just ran the above for 48 and 46 and it looks like 8mm in diameter so only 4mm in radius between 48/46 teeth.

teeth pitch Circum PI Diameter
48 12.75 612 3.14159 194.80
46 12.75 586.5 3.14159 186.69
8.12mm difference diameter
4.05mm difference radius
good luck

[Braindrain]

Hi thanks for your help. After I'd posted I'd managed to find the same page and guessed at around 5mm to be gained by switching to a 46t ring. I think first of all I'm going to see if the derailuer will straddle the bottom water bottle boss , just to get on the road.
I'm still new to forum posting so bear with me, I'm not sure where this will end up in the right place.

Mercola: it's actually really handy for us bare frame builders knowing there is someone on the forum with an original spec bike, we're just guessing at what might work. So thanks for you reply. The 46 - 26 gearing makes more sense for this kind of bike I recon.

[Braindrain]

Mercola: any chance you could post some pictures of the front mech, so I can't see where the clamp ends up?
Cheers