Mounting Kryptonite Locks

[dmhouse]

Hi everyone,

I'd like to have a way to mount my Kryptonite New York lock onto my frame. I have a makeshift solution: put the crossbar behind the seat post above the seat stays and the loop in front of the seat tube. However this rattles around a lot and I occasionally smack my legs into it.

I've tried using the EZ Mount system that came with my lock but it's worth than useless. (See its Amazon page to prove it's not just me being an idiot.)

So, are there any alternatives?

[Schnell]

I've never had any problems with the mounting bracket and I've got them on two bikes. Why isn't yours working? It does rattle a lot though but that's just the lock itself.

[7_lives_left]

I have a ABUS rather than a Kryponite lock and had problems fitting the lock to the frame as the supplier intended so I found another way. (My frame has oversize coke can aluminium tubing and most of the tubes are not circular cross section). I fitted it to the pannier rack instead.

The lock mount won't easily fit to a rack either, but found that by cutting up the carcase of an old tyre and wrapping a piece of the tread around bits of the rack I could hold the lock mount in place without it cutting the tape holding the mount in place. Some pictures might make it clearer:

To get the panniers on/off, I have to twist the D-lock so that it is vertical rather than horizontal as show in the picture, or fit the D-lock after I have fitted the panniers.

Of course you won't have the same lock or pannier, but you might be able to try something similar.

[dmhouse]

I don't really want to have to mount it to a rack. I do own a rack but don't like having it attached when I'm just using my bike as a commuter. (It goes back on for tours.)

Schnell -- I'm simply not able to pull the fastening tight enough. Users' comments on Amazon seem to confirm my experience. I actually can't imagine how it would rattle if one were to get it nice and snug, since the fit between the shackle on the lock and the bracket is very tight.

[thirdcrank]

I have one on my shopping bike - wouldn't hump a lock further than the shops. My own lock is a Kryptonite but a cheaper version. The bracket (which looks like the same one) serves the purpose very well - snug fit, no rattle, easy to stow the lock and remove it.

Anyone remember the helms cartoon when big D locks first came into use? (Smug chap with a really huge lock in a trailer. many a true word spoken in jest.)

[spoonful]

I have the same lock and I agree, it's awful. Seems to be very badly made with huge tolerances - mine's far too tight around the lock, whereas others say it's too loose. I had to use two hands to pull the lock out once releasing the catch. After three uses, the plastic cracked and fell to bits...useless.

I now use a pair of brackets designed to hold a torch on the handlebars - they've got chunky bits of rubber which hold the lock secure, although it does swing around a bit.

[CREPELLO]

The bracket shouldn't be loose. Take up most of the slack by sliding the toothed section so far, until you're left with a gap just wide enough for the screw on the other side to bridge. Then tighten this screw to achieve a firm grip on the tubing. The lock catch can be be a bit tight. I used graphite (from an artist's pencil) as a lube.

Any other bodges are liable to be just as awkward IMO; D locks are never going to fit nicely on a bike frame, although I had my mini Evo 2000 attached to the seat stay, which fitted quite neatly. These days I just attach it to the pannier bag and when I'm out in the sticks I just use a mini cable lock.

[bigbloke]

My T400 came with a "mouse trap" style spring on the top of the rack

The lock bar part goes over the seat bolt end, the hoop goes under the spring.

survived some serious bouncing down a good few semi-tech trails and 70mph+VAT on top of the car !

regards

BB

[dmhouse]

The bracket shouldn't be loose. Take up most of the slack by sliding the toothed section so far, until you're left with a gap just wide enough for the screw on the other side to bridge.

This is the tricky part -- I can't manage to pull the toothed section through. Maybe I'll have another go with a pair of pliers rather than my bare hands.

[soton]

What about elastic shock cord straps to stop it rattling? Two pictures worth 500 words each.
The coat hanger is only to demonstrate how the top loop is secured; the other end, and both ends of the lower loop are fixed in place.
Versatile: can also carry a jacket and bottle. Cheap, and weighs 15gm, including the extra, flat washer to stop the loop from slipping off.
Might you modify the idea for your particular frame?

[Fatou]

I have a Kryptonite too and the mounting is rubbish.

I have no solution for you other than stick it on the rack like the fella with the T400, I have a T100 & do the same.

Respect to soton who uses a coat hanger.

[MockCyclist]

I've had the Kryptonite hanger, just like the one on the Amazon page, on and off my bike a few times over the years and it works just fine. I use pliers to pull the ratcheted strip through before tightening it up. Mounted on the seat post for minimum alteration of weight distribution, the lock doesn’t rattle at all once it's in the clamp.

[[XAP]Bob]

Velcro wraps?

[Hypocacculus]

If you are using your lock primarily for commuting, could you circumvent the problem and leave the lock at work? If I needed one at both ends, I'd consider buying two. U locks are heavy and I paid a lot of money for light bike!

If not, an old bit of shoeleather or inner tube strategically applied is good to eliminate rattles.

[peterbayliss]

I have just orderer some Twofish Lockblocks, I will let you know if they work well,I intending to use them to carry a U lock on my frame. I already use the version that holds items at a right angle for my bike light and that works really well being very secure but easily removed.