Noise on my bike

[LANDSURFER74]

It's posts like this that make me sure that there must be a market for a "teach yourself bike maintenance" book. Theres probably thousands of them ... un - read!!
It's easy for my generation to mock.. which i'm not.
Like me, many on here where building their own bikes from bits from the local tip at the age of 10 .. i was .. no money at home for new bikes.
In a time when mechanical engineering is looked down on by the masses it would be nice to hear from someone that has read the book, learned, and is now fixing their bike on a regular basis. And others ....

[lackofgrip]

I would attempt it myself if it wasn't carbon

[fivebikes]

Possibly way off mark but similar noises on our tandem (clicking sound when putting in effort, especially uphill) were cured when I fitted different front handlebars! I guess it was the stem/bar 'interface' which then carried through the frame (large section alloy) and appeared to be coming from the front chainring/bottom bracket/pedal area. I guess slacking off and then retightening any significant bolt heads might prove/disprove this theory.
Good Luck! I was perplexed for months!!

[lackofgrip]

I've booked it in at local shop for tomorrow for crank check / rebuild. If that doesn't work I'll try that.

[LANDSURFER74]

NOISY CRANKS ...

1. remove hex screws from crank / axle.
2. ride around the block.
3. lube crank screws with grease, not oil!
4. fit, and torque, by hand . tight.

Result ; quiet cranks .. until they squeak again ..

Repeat above.

[CREPELLO]

From my experience of clicks ging away in the rain, I offer this idea. The rain is acting as a lube, so if rain can make a click or creak go away, so can a spray oil. TF2 is the one to use, or any with teflon added.

Methodically loosen every bolt or component a little, spary TF2 at it, then re-tighten. Then (always) ride or test the bike before you move on to the next suspect fitting. With any luck, eventually you will find the gremlin, upon which you may decide to just leave it, dismantle and grease or re-apply periodically to quieten the little bleeder.

I don't know if there is an aerosol oil that's safe to use on carbon, because the BB thread would be a usual suspect on other frames, esp alu.
Also, bottle cage rivnuts on alu frames can click; again, I don't know about carbon.

[CREPELLO]

NOISY CRANKS ...

1. remove hex screws from crank / axle.
2. ride around the block.
3. lube crank screws with grease, not oil!
4. fit, and torque, by hand . tight.

Result ; quiet cranks .. until they squeak again ..

Repeat above.

That reminds me, it could also be the chain ring bolts. It took me half a JOGLE to finally resolve that particular click.

[LANDSURFER74]

i nearly had a nervous breakdown trying to find the click that only appeared when pedaling under light loads ... as you said ...chain ring bolt loose ...

[lackofgrip]

I will post again when this is remedied

[lackofgrip]

I had the crank tightened as it wasn't torqued up correctly. The ticking noise has now gone.

there is however still a noise when pedalling under strain, it sounds like the chain catching on the front derailluer

Although I have looked and the chain is clear.

Please help me diagonse this problem as I'm loosing my mind !!!!!!!!!!

[CREPELLO]

Chain on front mech is a rubbing sound. Is it a rub, click, tick or creak? Could it be the end of the mech cable catching?

Consider my advise above on using the Teflon spray.

[lackofgrip]

It seems to be more of a creak to be honest

[CREPELLO]

Well a rubbing chain could possibly sound like a creak. When you look at the chain/mech cage are you doing so when riding? Only then will the twisting forces of hard riding induce the chain rub. Off the bike, there will be no contact.

[lackofgrip]

Well a rubbing chain could possibly sound like a creak. When you look at the chain/mech cage are you doing so when riding? Only then will the twisting forces of hard riding induce the chain rub. Off the bike, there will be no contact.

its hard to see but that's what I'm tending to think. Thats excatly what it sounds like to me

What would you suggest adjusting the front screws?

Obviously when pedalling hard ie uphill it seems tricky to look at mech

[CREPELLO]

Assuming you have a STI type shifter, you would let the outer limit screw out enough to allow the mech cage out an extra mm or so. You need to also increase cable tension using the inline adjuster - this will be the thing that actually moves the cage outwards.

Remember that moving the cage out too far and the chain will likely come off and shifting to the smaller chain rings could become more difficult. It's just a micro adjustment really. Ensure that when you adjust for the gear change that the mech cage moves no further than is necessary to achieve the shift. That's what the limit screws are for.