Upgrading shifters

[humpy]

My bike is a 2011 model, triple 9-speed with sora components, except the brakes which are 105's.
Am I right in thinking that I can upgrade the shifters to 105 (5600), and not change anything else (and keep the same cabling)?

I found the compatability chart but to be honest, don't really understand it.
http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content ... 0Chart.pdf

My other option was to upgrade the front and rear mech, but although I have some gearing issues, and it's been looked at by a couple of cycling shops, I'm sure it just needs tweaking rather than upgrading. I would think upgrading the shifters will have a more noticeable difference over changing the front and rear mech? (and no, I can't do it all).

[reohn2]

IME low end Shimano kit changes just as good as anything else (which is very good),I'm wondering what your "gearing issues" are as you're thinking to upgrade just the shifters?

[humpy]

IME low end Shimano kit changes just as good as anything else (which is very good),I'm wondering what your "gearing issues" are as you're thinking to upgrade just the shifters?

I can get the 105 shifters new for £100 so that's why I'm considering that. I can shift up and down in the drops, so that isn't a problem. I know this won't sort out the gearing issue I have, but would be a nice upgrade for a good price.

Regarding the gearing issues, it's been fine-tuned a few times by two local places, but although it seems fine when the bike leaves the shops, within about 20 miles, when I'm changing gear on the rear mech it catches the cage on the front mech and rattles when I ride which is annoying. I guess I can probably fix it by changing either the barrel adjuster, or the low/high positions, but I've never done this before, and thought the local bike shops would be able to sort this out. I'm sure adjusting something will sort this out, but then again, would upgrading the front/rear mech also sort this out.

[reohn2]

If its OK when it leaves the shop then it would seem something is going out of adjustment within 20miles which suggests its a cable adjuster either slipping or a thread stripped on an adjuster,if that's the case upgrading the STI's won't help,though £100 for 105 STI's is a good price.

[gbnz]

It sounds to me like an adjustment issue. Unless you want to spend money buying new components, I can't see that new compenents would make any difference.

[humpy]

Thanks reohn2 and gbnz, I'll check out the adjuster. Is this something that should be moved slowly, i.e. millimeters at a time?

Also, just going back to the other question, if I got the 105 shifters (10 speed), would the original cables for the 9-speed be a straight swop?

[gilesjuk]

Sounds like the shop didn't ride test it. Often it works fine on the workstand but when you push on the pedals it can flex the frame a little causing the chain to rub.

Front mech needs adjustment.

[pherron]

I think you'll have problems if you change the sifters. The 105 shifters are 10 speed. You have Sora 9 speed so they aren't compatible. I don't think you'll notice any improvement in the quality of shifting either, there is nothing wrong with Sora stuff. I agree with other posters that it sounds like your gears just need adjusting properly.

[reohn2]

Humpy
The adjustment needed is only millimeters,or it could be you're using extreme chain angles ie;big chainring and largest sprocket or small chainring and smallest sprocket,these will cause the chain to rub on the front mech cage,if thats the case limit you're chainline.If its not that then theres an adjuster for the front mech either on the downdube or an inline one on the outer cable which makes adjustment whist riding easy,just adjust until the cage stops rubbing.
If you do decide to buy the 105 STI's make sure you're buying 9speed as 10speed won't work with you're bike.

[humpy]

Humpy
The adjustment needed is only millimeters,or it could be you're using extreme chain angles ie;big chainring and largest sprocket or small chainring and smallest sprocket,these will cause the chain to rub on the front mech cage,if thats the case limit you're chainline.If its not that then theres an adjuster for the front mech either on the downdube or an inline one on the outer cable which makes adjustment whist riding easy,just adjust until the cage stops rubbing.
If you do decide to buy the 105 STI's make sure you're buying 9speed as 10speed won't work with you're bike.

Thanks, I'll check out the adjusters tomorrow. I think I remember seeing something under the down-tube near where it meets the head tube. I'm not sure if I should move it clockwise or anti-clockwise so guess I'll have to see how the testing goes.
I'm aware of the extreme chain angles and don't do that. It can rub when the chain is in a straight line, i.e. big cog at the front, and little cog at the back.

[Edwards]

It can rub when the chain is in a straight line, i.e. big cog at the front, and little cog at the back.

This sounds like the cable could have stretched or as has been said not setup properly.
Does the chain rub on the outside or inside face of the front mech?

[humpy]

It can rub when the chain is in a straight line, i.e. big cog at the front, and little cog at the back.

This sounds like the cable could have stretched or as has been said not setup properly.
Does the chain rub on the outside or inside face of the front mech?

Rubs on the outside.