Front lights

[PeddlingT]

I'm looking for a decent front light for my commute which in winter has some dark/shady stretches of road. I've narrowed it down to -

Electron Terra twin (rechargeable)
Cateye HL-EL530 (4 x AA)
Cateye HL-EL610RC single shot + (rechargeable)

I don't need to light up a football pitch just throw some light on the darker bits of road. Does anyone use any of the above, if so how have you found them.

Cheers, Tony F.

[Malaconotus]

A couple of those were on my shortlist a year ago but following advice here and elsewhere I went with the B&M Ixon IQ... http://www.dotbike.com/p/4119 I am extremely pleased with the choice.

[thirdcrank]

If you go for rechargeable, consider how the charging regime may fit in with your commuting timetable.

[Big T]

Im an Ixon IQ user too and find a full charge will last about 4 hours on full beam and 10 hours on low beam. Low beam is sufficient for urban roads. Good spread of light and good battery life compared with many rechargeable systems.

[graymee]

I have the Cateye HL-EL530 (4 x AA) which I run on rechargeable batteries. My commute is 1 hour 10 a day and the batteries will last about a week before needing charged. I think the light is sufficient for me to cycle downhill at a reasonable pace on an unlit straight road at night. Most of my commute is on unlit roads and I think the Cateye gives a good light at a reasonable price.

[bogmyrtle]

I have had a Cateye single shot plus for three years. It gives reasonable illumination on unlit roads and the battery lasts at least three hours. It's age is now starting to show in that the on/off switch isn't totally reliable but I feel I've have my moneys worth out of it and it still has a use as a second light.
I bought an Electron terra Twin as a replacement but I got it just before the clocks changed so I haven't actually used it yet.
One slight disadvantage of the Electron over the Cateye is that lights will likely need to be left on the bike and just the battery removed for recharging. with the Cateye, the battery is integrated into the light so the whole thing can be slid off the bracket and removed.

[sjs]

I use a Philips LED bike light (4XAA), apparently available from Amazon in the UK, but cheaper from Bike24. Fairly expensive (about £85 when I got it about a year ago) but very bright and with a very well-shaped beam for road use. Only about 90 mins on full power, but good enough for most purposes on the dim setting. Reviews easily found via Google.

[elmo]

I use a 'polaris' 5 white led front light. This light leaves a white circle on the ground a good 15 to 20 feet in front of me so I can see pot holes and for a half mile off road stretch on my commute. I leave the handlebar mount slightly loose so I can move the light up and down dependant on my speed. This light also has a flash facility which gets used when I do not actually need to see the road surface.
This light uses two AA batteries. They come compete with batteries that lasted me over a year. I now use rechargables and have been using the same batteries since the new year.
This is the best front light that I have used and the best one for lighting up the road surface.
Elmo

[Nettled Shin]

I use a 'polaris' 5 white led front light. This light leaves a white circle on the ground a good 15 to 20 feet in front of me so I can see pot holes and for a half mile off road stretch on my commute. I leave the handlebar mount slightly loose so I can move the light up and down dependant on my speed.

I know car headlights are meant to point downwards so as to not blind oncoming traffic, but I find when cycling that I need some light thrown upwards; being whacked in the face by a sticking out branch is not a common hazard for car drivers. I don't know whether hazards from above are ever considered by bike light manufacturers. I do use a Bikehut LED light as a secondary because it is one of the few that is BS approved, but it does have a transparent sides to the lens, which throws light everywhere. The downside to this is that it ruins my night vision, so I think the design was a complete accident, and not thought through.

[Malaconotus]

I know car headlights are meant to point downwards so as to not blind oncoming traffic, but I find when cycling that I need some light thrown upwards; being whacked in the face by a sticking out branch is not a common hazard for car drivers.

This is my secondary... http://www.alpkit.com/gamma

As well as providing illumination of branches etc., the Alpkit headtorch overcomes other problems with only having the cut-off directional beam of the fork-mounted Ixon, or any other bike headlight, by enabling you to illuminate ground to the side when making tight turns etc.

And unlike any bike-mounted secondary, it doesn't dazzle car drivers unless you look directly at them, rather than their cars. (Being able to get their attention by looking directly at them and briefly dazzling them can be another benefit in certain situations)

The Gamma is at least the equal of Petzl torches costing four times as much, takes standard AAA batteries (rechargeable but not in situ), and even has a flashing rear light as well.

[Nettled Shin]

This is my secondary... http://www.alpkit.com/gamma

Ahh, I actually have a Gamma, already, but I'd not thought to use it whilst cycling. It is truly very good...like almost all Alpkit stuff. In fact I've bought them for several friends. Mine does not work with rechargeables, though, because the central battery does not make contact. For some reason, NiMh AAA batteries are not quite the same profile as the equivalent disposable. Do you wear yours under your helmet, and does the rear battery pack not get in the way?

[Malaconotus]

This is my secondary... http://www.alpkit.com/gamma

Ahh, I actually have a Gamma, already, but I'd not thought to use it whilst cycling. It is truly very good...like almost all Alpkit stuff. In fact I've bought them for several friends. Mine does not work with rechargeables, though, because the central battery does not make contact. For some reason, NiMh AAA batteries are not quite the same profile as the equivalent disposable. Do you wear yours under your helmet, and does the rear battery pack not get in the way?

Rarely wear a helmet these days, but when I did the pack was pushed down below the adjuster at the back, so I wore the straps slightly looser than I would have otherwise, and it all worked fine and was comfortable. This is possible while remaining secure thanks to the centre band which the Petzl doesn't have. I tried the Gamma over/on the helmet but it wasn't possible to get a good position for the front lamp with the peak on, and didn't seem 100% secure, but YMMV.

It does work really well with a beanie or a buff. Without, the centre strap ruffles what remains of my hair and exaggerates my baldness (and no, I don't comb over!)

I have been using non-rechargeables, and expected to be able to switch when supplies ran out, so thanks for the tip. I have noticed that rechargables are slightly shorter in other applications. Why is this? Seems daft, really.

[Nettled Shin]

I have been using non-rechargeables, and expected to be able to switch when supplies ran out, so thanks for the tip. I have noticed that rechargables are slightly shorter in other applications. Why is this? Seems daft, really.

The problem I have is that the battery compartment lid has two plastic 'rivets' inside that secure the sprung contacts. They are separated by less than the diameter of an AAA cell, but are also higher than the central contact. NiMH batteries have completely flat bases, so contact cannot be made. If it does work for you, I bet there is almost no pressure on the contact, so a bit of vibration etc could switch the light off. I am reluctant to fiddle, because it would be easy to ruin the water tightness, or set off corrosion of the contacts, or snap a bit of plastic.

[mahler]

I had a Cateye front LED once and was never too impressed with the build quality.
The connections were always loose etc. Eventually it melted itself to death with
a short circuit, probably not helped by my emergency tinfoil repair .
I replaced it with a basic model from Lumicycle http://www.lumicycle.com/ several
winters ago. The Lumicycle is as good as daylight which is more than I can say
about the Cateye.

Downside is I paid about £35 for Cateye and £130 for the Lumicycle set up.
Price per season is probably similar now though.

[LANDSURFER74]

If you've paid more than £30 for your lights be aware that some one is laughing at you , .... possibly employed by the light company!!!!!