Replacing Headset Bearings

[graymee]

Just recently I noticed that my do all, mountain/commuter bike steering was getting stiff. I did some research and came to the conclusion that water had got into my headset bottom bearings and they'd need replacing. I took the fork out and had a look and, even though the bike has been used in all weathers with very little TLC, I was surprised how much filth there was in there. Initially I thought they were sealed bearings but looking at the cleaner top bearing I saw a circlip, prised it out and discovered loose ball bearings.

To eventually get to the question I came here to ask, what type of ball bearings should I use as replacements? Chrome steel, stainless steel or something else? Where would you advise buying them? Any recommendations in the Lincoln/Newark area? And finally, what type of grease would you advise for re assembly?

[Mick F]

Chrome steel are fine.
I bought a whole set of bearings - headset and hubs, plus many spares - from these people:
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/bearin ... _page1.php
I bought the "best" quality.

As for grease, we had a long thread on here a while ago.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42374
Read CJ's posts on the subject. Sorry if the thread is longwinded, but it's packed full of good information.

However, I ran just normal general purpose grease for a many years as I can remember, so if you remember to check your headset frequently, you shouldn't have any problem with it.

Main point though, is to always use separate balls rather than balls in a cage or cassette. Without the cage, you need more ball bearings, and the more ball bearings you have, the better the wear.

[cycleruk]

It's unusual to have loose bearing balls these days.
They usually come in a "cage".
If the steering feels notchy then you will also have to replace the races as they are probably "brinnelled" .

See Sheldon Brown for maintenance tips:-
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

[Valbrona]

If the steering feels notchy then you will also have to replace the races as they are probably "brinnelled" .

Yes, look more closely at the races.

[Ayesha]

The difficult bit is getting the races square.

The halves of the races that thump into the head tube are best pressed in with a clamp that has square faces. Grease everything.

Tip.
Before assembling the fork back in, put a 1" or so length of old inner tube on the head tube above the lower race. When the whole thing is assembled, grease the lower race and unfold the piece of old inner tube to COVER the lower race like a rubber 'boot', to keep crud out.
The same can be done with the top race. The short length of inner tube can be installed before the stem/handlebars go back.

[Ayesha]

Chrome steel are fine.
I bought a whole set of bearings - headset and hubs, plus many spares - from these people:
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/bearin ... _page1.php
I bought the "best" quality.

As for grease, we had a long thread on here a while ago.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42374
Read CJ's posts on the subject. Sorry if the thread is longwinded, but it's packed full of good information.

However, I ran just normal general purpose grease for a many years as I can remember, so if you remember to check your headset frequently, you shouldn't have any problem with it.

Main point though, is to always use separate balls rather than balls in a cage or cassette. Without the cage, you need more ball bearings, and the more ball bearings you have, the better the wear.

I've still got a can of grease which was passed down from my uncle, that was originally purchased by the RAF during the war. Its the OLDEST part of my bikes!
As I am told, it was used on Vickers Wellington bombers, so if its good enough for Barnes Wallis, its good enough for my bikes.

[Mick F]

My steering was "notchy", not because of the races, but the balls. I now have smooth steering.

I repeat, do away with the cage and fit more balls.
More balls is best.

Cages are only there to make assembly easier, but they are a rotten system of bearing.

[Ayesha]

My steering was "notchy", not because of the races, but the balls. I now have smooth steering.

I repeat, do away with the cage and fit more balls.
More balls is best.

Cages are only there to make assembly easier, but they are a rotten system of bearing.

Totally agree.

Fill the 'cup' half of the race with grease and push the balls into it. They won't fall out.

Most of the weight rests on the lower race. This MUST have loose bearings. The upper race could have caged, but as you buy either loose or caged, put the remaining loose balls in the upper race.

[CREPELLO]

My steering was "notchy", not because of the races, but the balls. I now have smooth steering.

I repeat, do away with the cage and fit more balls.
More balls is best.

Cages are only there to make assembly easier, but they are a rotten system of bearing.

Totally agree.

Fill the 'cup' half of the race with grease and push the balls into it. They won't fall out.

Most of the weight rests on the lower race. This MUST have loose bearings. The upper race could have caged, but as you buy either loose or caged, put the remaining loose balls in the upper race.

I think you are being too prescriptive here. There maybe a time when you have a headset that does have dimpled races, which may only be slight. In which case, a stop gap measure would be to swap from loose balls to caged, or visa-versa. By changing from loose to caged, you will change the ball spacing, which should allow more balls to settle out of the dimples in the race. I haven't tried this, so shoot me down if you know this does not work.

This may not be ideal, but there are times when a stop gap measure is more suitable than the gold plated alternative.

[Ayesha]

My Pug PX had a strange H/S thread.

IIRC, it is 25mm x 1mm, and not the 1" x 24 tpi ( correct me if I'm wrong ) usual fitment.

The adjustable race had dimpled slightly. I installed caged balls in the upper race so the balls' controlled circumferential pitch stopped balls rolling over the dimples in unison.

The lower race and the upper headtube fitting race were renewed, cus the headtube and forkcrown is Reynolds. I had to re-use the adjustable race.


PS. An important part of being a cyclist is "Story telling".

[robc02]

I agree about getting rid of the cage and fitting loose bearings. I have rescued a number of apparently wrecked headsets like this.

Good quality chrome balls are generally harder than stainless but are less corrosion resistant. If you expect the bearings to regularly get wet then stainless will be the best option (sailing dinghy pulley blocks use unlubricated stainless bearings that regularly get immersed and they last for years). If you can keep them dry and well lubricated then go for chrome.

Online bearings are another good supplier.

[rjb]

Most of the weight rests on the lower race. This MUST have loose bearings. The upper race could have caged, but as you buy either loose or caged, put the remaining loose balls in the upper race.

I think you are being too prescriptive here. There maybe a time when you have a headset that does have dimpled races, which may only be slight. In which case, a stop gap measure would be to swap from loose balls to caged, or visa-versa. By changing from loose to caged, you will change the ball spacing, which should allow more balls to settle out of the dimples in the race. I haven't tried this, so shoot me down if you know this does not work.

This may not be ideal, but there are times when a stop gap measure is more suitable than the gold plated alternative.[/quote]

Yes this is a good stop gap measure which also works well if you knock out the bottom cup and fork crown race and turn these by 45 degrees in opposite directions before replacing. The wear / brinelling in usually concentrated in the for and aft positions so by turning the worn areas out of alignment you can get by for some time.

[graymee]

If there's so much load on the headset I don't know why tapered roller bearings aren't used other than initial cost. Not that it matters, I've been to the LBS for some advice, (Thank you Lincoln Cycle Centre) I've cleaned up the bearing races and replaced the bearings. As I already had some grease the cost was exactly £1 for the 60 ball bearings from the above mentioned LBS.

Based on the advice I got I'll see how the headset lasts and if it's still not right I'll replace the whole lot in the spring when it's not so likely to get damaged by the weather. Short term, I'm also going to try to minimise the water getting into the lower bearing, but that's another story.

[CREPELLO]

Short term, I'm also going to try to minimise the water getting into the lower bearing, but that's another story.

I don't know whether you have the ending for that particular story, but Ayesha made a good suggestion for a rubber headset boot. If you don't want to take the forks out of the frame again to do this, then the loop of inner tube can easily be cut then re-glued around the lower bearings. Not quite as neat but is still does the job.

[Cyclenut]

Just recently I noticed that my do all, mountain/commuter bike steering was getting stiff. I did some research and came to the conclusion that water had got into my headset bottom bearings and they'd need replacing.

Sounds like you probably don't have a front mudguard on that bike. Mudguards may be deprecated by some classes of cyclist, but they are most effective stopping the front tyre from constantly spraying grit and water at the bottom headset bearing, which mixture, applied with due force, abrades and pretty soon disables the minimal sorts of seal that are all there's room for in any bicycle component, so the water gets in.

Unless you live in California and only ride when the weather is fine, proper mudguards are a necessary part of any genuinely do it all bike.