Cycling UK Forum

I have experienced a couple of axle breakages on these hubs in the past but have now fitted a longstaff hardened axle and carried out the mod as shown in the photo's with excellent results. The rear wheel has now been good for 60,000 miles. The mod involves fitting an extra bearing to support the end of the hub in the freewheel near the drop out. I used an imperial sized bearing 3/8 id as this is a close fit on the 9.5mm axle, and 7/8 od as this is a good fit in the freewheel end usually around 22mm. Sometimes you have to take a grinding wheel to the freewheel splines to ensure that the bearing is an easy fit as you will have to remove the bearing before removing the freewheel. Be careful and ensure you leave enough of the splines to enable the freewheel remover to get a good purchase. I have ground out several freewheels over the years and never had a problem using a freewheel remover. Newer freewheels from Shimano have not needed any grinding out and were a perfect fit leaving just enough clearance to enable easy removal of the bearing. Apologies for the focus on some of the pics but i am sure you get the picture.

I had determined that I was going to do this on my touring bike if I carried on using a freewheel... but then I changed to a cassette hub.

This is very useful information though, as I also have suzue tandem hubs!

Cheers

Several friends have asked me how i did it and i resolved to post some info when i next changed the freewheel. The photos are not all in focus but i am sure you get the idea.

Hi there. Is this to be done with a longstaff axle or without? Our dawes Galazy Twin has Suze hubs and we are to set off on a 9 day tour of Holland at the end of March. I would very much like it if the axle did not break while out there!!! Also, what size cartidge baering is it I'm after?

I am wanting to change to a cassette on the rear but this is a way off yet as I am currently still looking for the cassette hub on the WANTED board. I'd rather not spend the money on the Longstaff axle as it is quite pricey and a short term fix but if I must, I must...

Cheers

Ian

IME the original Suzue axle is made from cheese grade metal and if yours isn't already bent it soon will be. Get a Longstaff axle.

Rjb's modification above should improve matters further.

Cheers Gaz. What would you recommend for the front? Leave as is?

Good tip from rjb ,I had the idea when we had a tandem with Suzues but after buying a L/staff axle decided not to bother.
As Gaz says original Suzues axles were indeed cheeselike and needed straightening monthly it seemed .

Can't find them for sale anywhere, I saw them last week I'm sure. Any pointers??!

Suitable?? I find it annoying that you have to pay to upgrade a useless piece of kit they provided but not too worried...

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/suzue-tandem ... e-prod506/

Dynamite_funk wrote:Cheers Gaz. What would you recommend for the front? Leave as is?

I can't make a recommendation for the front as I've never broken or even bent one . Our Tandem, a Galaxy Twin of similar vintage to your own, has only seen use on lightly laden day rides.

If your Suzue rear hub is the same as ours then it's a solid axle, 140mm OLN, has fixed shoulders on the axle for the cartridge bearings and there is no axle protruding past the track nut on the driveside. Finding a replacement whilst on tour would not be simple, hence the need to fit something more reliable before you go.

The front Suzue hub has a q/r which at least means the skewer should keep things together in the event of a break. It's also a standard 100mm OLN, so if you can't source an axle on tour a solo wheel will go straight in to keep you going.

Here's a bearing for you.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R6-2RS-KLNJ-3 ... 53f4c06f0b

Build it up on the axle first without the freewheel to check it rotates without binding. You may need to add a washer here or there. It pays to lock the 2 internal nuts up tight before putting the extra bearing on then when you come to remove the freewheel you can loosen and remove the outside nut and slide the bearing off to allow the freewheel remover access.

With this support in place the original suzue axle may well last a considerable time.

Thanks RJB. Ordered one so will give it a go. Any idea how much the axle will be? Suzue do one for £50, I'd prefer it to b e cheaper to be honest!

STOP PRESS!!!

Just got confirmation that the axle was changed to a hardened steel one shortly after purchase

Still going to go ahead with the bearing mod though!

Excellent news! Explains why it's not bent/broken already.

rjb wrote:Several friends have asked me how i did it and i resolved to post some info when i next changed the freewheel. The photos are not all in focus but i am sure you get the idea.

Hi

How do you remove the freewheel if you grind out the removal spline?
Can you not get a bearing with a slightly smaller OD that fits in the minor diameter of the spline form?