To strip down the Alfine 11 IHG in order to check out the gear selector mechanism is working properly
To be read in conjunction with the parts list .
1. Remove wheel from bike

2. With all wheel nuts, non-turn washers and disc (if fitted) removed - clamp in vice by the flats on the axle on the opposite side to the sprocket.
3. Remove the cassette joint assembly – check it for free movement and clear out the cable groove.
4. Remove the sprocket circlip cover (item 41), circlip (item 39)(removed with two small electricians screwdrivers, sliding them down the sprocket drive grooves & flipping the circlip out), the sprocket & the thin steel dust cover(item 28).
5. Now the large plastic end cap needs to be loosened (Item 26). This is done with the special tool (item 50) which has shallow lugs that engage with recesses in the plastic cap. Without engaging all lugs at once it is hard to get enough drive torque without damage to the cap. I thought about making a ring from plywood and screwing some steel plates on as a quick home-made tool but in the end I got one wire cut at a local firm (I will add a dimensioned drawing when I find it). The important thing is not to damage the face that presses onto the aluminium hub as this will cause it to leak. IT UNSCREWS CLOCKWISE. Leave it on but loose
6. Now turn the wheel over & clamp on the opposite side, with the cone spanners hold the lower cone and undo the lock nut (item 25) - remove this. Unscrew the cone (item 34) which will initially be stiff as it has an ‘o’ring seal under it (item 2), it will come off with a tin pressed dust cover attached.
7. A clean drip tray needs to be at the ready.
Hold the top axle, undo the vice, lift out the wheel, invert it & with it over the tray unscrew the plastic cap (don’t damage the large sprocket oil seal) & remove it, the whole internals can now be lifted out (turning anti-clockwise to free of the roller clutches). Place quickly onto the tray to drain awhile, also tip any oil out the hub body onto the tray.
8. Inspect the oil for ‘glitter’ using a torch & also inside the hub. The oil may be dark but should not be in the least bit sludgy if the oil has been changed at the recommended intervals. The ball race cannot be removed without removing and possibly damaging the seal. If the cone looks fine the balls and outer race will probably be ok too.
9. When most of the oil has drained off replace in the vice & clamp on the sprocket side axle.
10. Everything that needs to come off is now held in place with the circlip (item 3) that can be seen on top of the whole stack. Remove this with a screwdriver (don’t damage the ‘o’ring (item 2) on the axle nearby)
11. Remove the carrier hold plate (item 4) this takes any side thrust generated by the torque but also holds two anti- spin springs (Items 5 & 6). Check the springs are okay & free to slide around in their respective grooves (they should slide in one direction more easily than the other) if they have thinned at any point best to replace them. LEAVE THEM IN PLACE AS THEY STOP THE SUN GEAR FROM COMING OUT AND MESSING UP THE GEAR TIMING.
12. The first basket of gears can now be pulled off the axle (item 7 & 8 should be held together BY THE SPRINGS 5 & 6), twist anti clockwise so as to flatten the pawl and allow the assembly to slide over it. Spin the sun gear & check all the planets and ring gear rotate freely. DO NOT DIS-ASSEMBLE THIS ITEM ANY FURTHER unless you really want to - getting the small planet gears timed up correctly is a right faff.