My aheadset has expired on my touring bike.
I don't want another one of the same make ie FSA, so what would you recommend?
It has to be 1 1/8 inch threadless. I'd like either a white one or a silver one, definately not black.
I've seen an Onza Mongo III headset. Are these any good?
I don't want to pay more than £30 including postage.
Recommend an aheadset please
Recommend an aheadset please
Thank goodness for soup.
Re: Recommend an aheadset please
I was going to recommend a FSA headset; in black
It was the cheapest I could find a couple of years ago and works perfectly ok
It was the cheapest I could find a couple of years ago and works perfectly ok
Re: Recommend an aheadset please
Yours isn't a hidden set or zero-stack headset I guess? 'Conventional' 1-1/8" headsets.... cane creek S8 in white;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CANE-CREEK-S8-S-8-S-8-HEADSET-28-6MM-1-1-8-NEW-/220778579304?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item33676dc568
BTW three things kill A-head headsets;
-water ingress
-bad frame prep
-top cap overtightening (1-2Nm -which is stuff-all... is plenty)
all are -to a greater or lesser extent- perfectly avoidable.
If you want one you simply won't kill easily, if at all, get an FSA 'PIG' (not available in silver or white AFAIK) these are made in stainless steel and have massive loose balls inside. Difficult for even the hamfisted and neglectful to kill off, these.
cheers
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CANE-CREEK-S8-S-8-S-8-HEADSET-28-6MM-1-1-8-NEW-/220778579304?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item33676dc568
BTW three things kill A-head headsets;
-water ingress
-bad frame prep
-top cap overtightening (1-2Nm -which is stuff-all... is plenty)
all are -to a greater or lesser extent- perfectly avoidable.
If you want one you simply won't kill easily, if at all, get an FSA 'PIG' (not available in silver or white AFAIK) these are made in stainless steel and have massive loose balls inside. Difficult for even the hamfisted and neglectful to kill off, these.
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Recommend an aheadset please
I have a standard headset not an integrated one.
Water ingress killed the bottom race, which rusted and seized.
I don't want another FSA one because the seals were rubbish.
Water ingress killed the bottom race, which rusted and seized.
I don't want another FSA one because the seals were rubbish.
Thank goodness for soup.
Re: Recommend an aheadset please
I've used various headsets with various seals on on MTBs and roadbikes (i.e. without mudguards) and only a few things help them survive;
1) waterproof grease, reapplied regularly
2) stainless steel bearings
3) some kind of cover.
A few bikes let water into the frame somehow which then mysteriously migrates to the lower headset bearings, but these are the exception. Winter weather is worse because it is salt water; far worse. Washing or storing bikes upside down is pretty bad too. Only a tiny bit of water inside is enough if there isn't much grease or the grease is poor quality. Obviously if the seals are damaged or the headset is run loose then the water just goes straight past the seals. I've not seen all of FSA's headsets but I don't think their seals or factory grease are unusually bad on the examples I have looked at.
If you have cartridge bearings at present (same top and bottom) you could try this; regrease both bearings, and fit the rough one in the top, where it'll do less harm.
At one time I used to ride offroad/onroad every day (~25 miles round trip in all weathers) by MTB. I would routinely strip and regrease the lower headset race once every three or four weeks. I used a Cane Creek C2 for some years which had non-stainless bearings, set into a 'cartridge' which could be disassembled and regreased easily enough (not all are like this BTW). Others (who presumably didn't regrease theirs) would slag this headset off terribly but in my care it lasted very well indeed. The bearings actually have a very high load bearing capacity because the cartridges are 'full complement loose balls' inside. I got to be able to strip and regrease the lower race in about 15 minutes.
Some suggestions;
a) learn to strip and regrease your headset on a more regular basis
b) use mudguards or a cover over the lower race ( a piece of old MTB inner tube works well enough)
c) buy a cheap stainless headset, like the 'Pig' (NB several different versions available)
d) spend a whole bunch more money on a headset with double seals and stainless cartridge bearings. E.g. I've also got a Chris King one which I have abused horribly for years and years; when I eventually serviced it, it looked just fine inside.
hth
cheers
1) waterproof grease, reapplied regularly
2) stainless steel bearings
3) some kind of cover.
A few bikes let water into the frame somehow which then mysteriously migrates to the lower headset bearings, but these are the exception. Winter weather is worse because it is salt water; far worse. Washing or storing bikes upside down is pretty bad too. Only a tiny bit of water inside is enough if there isn't much grease or the grease is poor quality. Obviously if the seals are damaged or the headset is run loose then the water just goes straight past the seals. I've not seen all of FSA's headsets but I don't think their seals or factory grease are unusually bad on the examples I have looked at.
If you have cartridge bearings at present (same top and bottom) you could try this; regrease both bearings, and fit the rough one in the top, where it'll do less harm.
At one time I used to ride offroad/onroad every day (~25 miles round trip in all weathers) by MTB. I would routinely strip and regrease the lower headset race once every three or four weeks. I used a Cane Creek C2 for some years which had non-stainless bearings, set into a 'cartridge' which could be disassembled and regreased easily enough (not all are like this BTW). Others (who presumably didn't regrease theirs) would slag this headset off terribly but in my care it lasted very well indeed. The bearings actually have a very high load bearing capacity because the cartridges are 'full complement loose balls' inside. I got to be able to strip and regrease the lower race in about 15 minutes.
Some suggestions;
a) learn to strip and regrease your headset on a more regular basis
b) use mudguards or a cover over the lower race ( a piece of old MTB inner tube works well enough)
c) buy a cheap stainless headset, like the 'Pig' (NB several different versions available)
d) spend a whole bunch more money on a headset with double seals and stainless cartridge bearings. E.g. I've also got a Chris King one which I have abused horribly for years and years; when I eventually serviced it, it looked just fine inside.
hth
cheers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Re: Recommend an aheadset please
Am surprised - four out of five bikes in this house have FSA Orbit XL IIs. I would consider them a fit and forget component and would not think to take them apart. Not had any problems that I can remember in the last five or so years, and the bikes seem to steer where they are pointed. The odd bike out has a Cane Creek headset
Please do not use this post in Cycle magazine
Re: Recommend an aheadset please
I've always heard good things about the Hope headsets:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19877
Or if you want to spend a small fortune, look at the Chris King range.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19877
Or if you want to spend a small fortune, look at the Chris King range.
Supporter of the A10 corridor cycling campaign serving Royston to Cambridge http://a10corridorcycle.com. Never knew gardening secateurs were an essential part of the on bike tool kit until I took up campaigning.....