a robust, sensible, long lasting bicycle.

[andrewjoseph]

I think that at 1650g for a pair, these are the lightweight wheels and that a pair of more robust, cheaper wheels are called for* for every day use.

*when money does matter.

I didn't build them as lightweight, I built them as reliable. When buying and building I didn't look at weights, I was surprised when I weighed them a few weeks ago.

[[XAP]Bob]

I'd break the subject title and add a third wheel.

I'm almost there:
- Ice Sprint2 RS (20" tyres all round for easy maintenance.)
- Discs all round (for reduced maintenance - not hubs because....)
- SON dynamo in one or both front wheels (hence no hub brakes)
- B&M lighting (or maybe a pair of the daftly bright E3 lights )
- SA3spd+9spd cassette on the rear, with a schlumpf up front.
- Full guards, and flaps; full chain tubes (even around the schlumpf - probably supported by a chainring guard)
- Full pannier
- Headrest
- Fairing optional
- Bar bag recommended

But the MOST important component would be a garage/workshop with space to store and work on the machine.

As a chain tensioner is basically required for the suspension (and anyway due to the length of the chain) I'd stick with a cheap cassette, and keep the range and static shifting through the SA/Schlumpf combination. If the SA has an easily findable neutral that would be even better

Summer on trykers, then winter on a full set of marathon winter tyres.

If I was being particularly flash I might look at an ultra lightweight electric assist - just 50-100W or so for that little extra up hills and away from the lights.

[al_yrpal]

so the question is - if you were to set out to build a long lasting, comfortable, efficient, all weather tourer / commuter / all purpose / training bicycle what would you choose in every aspect?

I've done all that on my Mercian.

Bike.jpg

Exactly, hard to keep on topic ain't it...

Nice bike.

Al

[Brucey]

Slightly OT but re Bob's third wheel; I have wondered if it is possible to convert SA's hub brake/dynamo hub to stub axle configuration. Might be tricky to run the wires out to the other side of the hub, but I've not looked at it in detail as yet.

cheers

[PeterBL]

It kind of depends on the budget. If it was rather big, I would go for Ti-frame with discs, derailleur gears and drop bars (maybe wait some years and get hydraulic discs).

I just built up a multi purpose bike on a budget of 600GBP, and it came out like this:

Frame and fork: Aluminium trekking for discs and with plenty of mounting points for fenders, racks etc.
Drivetrain: Shimergo (since I use drop bars) with Deore cranks (HTII), cheap front and rear derailleur for now (wasn't sure the FD would work perfect) and 8-speed at the back.
Brakes: Avid BB7, but with Centerlock rotors, so Avid rotors sold of.
Rack: Racktime addit
Wheels: Alivio rear, DH-3D35 front. 36 spokes (double butted) with Rigida Snyper rims. Rubino 28mm tyres (because I had these lying around. 32 or 35mm would fit the bike better).
Accesories: Lights: Herrmanns H-One S front, some random light rear. Mudguards, kickstand and interrupter levers. Takes both a child seat and a trailer.

[[XAP]Bob]

Slightly OT but re Bob's third wheel; I have wondered if it is possible to convert SA's hub brake/dynamo hub to stub axle configuration. Might be tricky to run the wires out to the other side of the hub, but I've not looked at it in detail as yet.

cheers

You probably can - I seem to recall that tigerbitten had an arm reaching down to the outside of a wheel on his previous trike. Of course you might be able to drill out the axle and thread a coaxial cable through. Shouldn't lose too much axle strength in the middle there...

But it does leave the cable that little bit more vulnerable - unless you put a hubcap in place - maybe as a full wheel disc

[BigG]

My only query with Brucey's specification (apart from the lack of gears) is the use of pencil seat stays. My original Holdsworth LaQuelda had these but they proved far too flexible for cantilever bosses. My current Freddie Grubb of a similar vintage and the H. Mistral both have much stronger stays and are still in my opinion a bit too flexible. This flexibility simply uses brake lever movement without giving additional braking force. I don't think that my 5 x 3 wide ratio gearing on the F G (14.2" to 93.5") would qualify under the "robust, sensible, long lasting" heading.

[squeaker]

Slightly OT but re Bob's third wheel; I have wondered if it is possible to convert SA's hub brake/dynamo hub to stub axle configuration. Might be tricky to run the wires out to the other side of the hub, but I've not looked at it in detail as yet.

cheers

Like this? Still work in progress, though.

[Brucey]

-image not viewable by non-members it seems

cheers

[mig]

looking forward to giving this lot a good reading this evening.

mr brucey sir - would you be willing to build me a front wheel as per the spec on your first post please?

cash plus as many free socks as you can carry no problem!

[Brucey]

-pm sent re wheel.

cheers

[reohn2]

A robust, sensible, long lasting bicycle.

I find this question very hard to answer,as what suits one person may not suit another,gears alone are a minefield ie;hub(how many gears)similarly so deraileurs.
Then there's frames,material,design,etc etc..........it's endless and can only be answered in context of whatever suits the rider's intended use for any given machine.
TBH it's a,how long's a piece of string scenario.

[andrewjoseph]

...
TBH it's a,how long's a piece of string scenario.

what's the string made of?

[reohn2]

...
TBH it's a,how long's a piece of string scenario.

what's the string made of?

Fibrous material of a very indeterminate nature
Anyway what's with the ?

[[XAP]Bob]

All theoretical strings are infinitely strong and therefore must be infinitely thin in order to be flexible. This requirement ensures they are perfect cheese-wire, and can't be used for anything practical - unless infinitely hard pulleys and ties are used of course