Cycling UK Forum

delthebike wrote:

RJC wrote:Are the spade connectors meant for connecting to the rear lamp? If you do this you will be bypassing the on/off/senso switch. Not really an issue with a bottle dynamo. There might be other issues though.

Robin

I have just tried this with my IQ LED Fly senso plus. Swapping rear light to different spade group does not bypass the switch.
Edit: Just to clarify this is with the light wired up to a SON hub using the inbuilt wire.

I meant if you connected the dynamo to one of the sets of spade connectors you would be possibly bypassing the internal switch. Not that I was recommending this since the inbuilt wire is intended for this connection.

RJC wrote:

delthebike wrote:

RJC wrote:Robin

I have just tried this with my IQ LED Fly senso plus. Swapping rear light to different spade group does not bypass the switch.
Edit: Just to clarify this is with the light wired up to a SON hub using the inbuilt wire.

I meant if you connected the dynamo to one of the sets of spade connectors you would be possibly bypassing the internal switch. Not that I was recommending this since the inbuilt wire is intended for this connection.

Yes, wiring hub to spade connectors bypasses the switch for an always on mode. Useful to know if your inbuilt wire breaks.

What would have been even more useful would have been if the main wire was replaceable.. What on earth is one to do if it breaks/gets pulled out during an accident?

ibrahim wrote:What would have been even more useful would have been if the main wire was replaceable.. What on earth is one to do if it breaks/gets pulled out during an accident?

Connect your spare cable to the spades.

johnmac wrote:Does this new light make the Solid 1203D obsolete?

In my view, after riding side by side with a Solidlights 1203D last night, yes it does.

Anyway, just got the obvious confirmed from B&M:
The IQ Fly Senso Plus is usable with both bottle and hub dynamo, the only thing is that if you want the switch/sensor to work you gotta use the inbuilt cable

I currently have a D'Lumotec Oval Senso Plus as a primary light and an E6-Z with a 3W bulb as a secondary. Does anyone know if the Fly IQ Senso can be wired up with a secondary lamp? Would those of you who have the Fly IQ think that there's no need to run an E6-Z with it?

T800 wrote:I currently have a D'Lumotec Oval Senso Plus as a primary light and an E6-Z with a 3W bulb as a secondary. Does anyone know if the Fly IQ Senso can be wired up with a secondary lamp? Would those of you who have the Fly IQ think that there's no need to run an E6-Z with it?

Don't know if you could run a second light in addition to a Fly IQ. I've been using a Fly IQ for several weeks now, it's a superb light, and I can't see the need for a secondary light.

Ordered my Fly IQ and and new dyno-hub the other day. Should be here soon. Can't wait!

T800 wrote:I currently have a D'Lumotec Oval Senso Plus as a primary light and an E6-Z with a 3W bulb as a secondary. Does anyone know if the Fly IQ Senso can be wired up with a secondary lamp? Would those of you who have the Fly IQ think that there's no need to run an E6-Z with it?

I'd like to know this too. I currently have a SON running a basic lumotec round halogen (2.4w) main headlamp, E6-Z secondary (3w) and Dtoplight+ LED rear lamp. I live in the country so need both headlamps. This setup works well but I like the idea of even more light and the automatic function. Best of all would be the reliability of LED. I don't mind sticking with halogen for the secondary lamp and would rather not make it obsolete as the E6-Z isn't cheap!

So, if I were to invest in one of these lamps would it be possible to keep the secondary lamp? Is the IQ so bright that I wouldn't even notice if I had it on?

Can someone clarify - I've read the thread but it's not totally clear (to me anyway) - can the IQ Fly without the standlight be used with a bottle dynamo? About to get one and don't wanna buy a hub generator till the Nordlight wears out. I use a 1 LED frog on the bars for a perma-glow.

glueman wrote:Can someone clarify - I've read the thread but it's not totally clear (to me anyway) - can the IQ Fly without the standlight be used with a bottle dynamo? About to get one and don't wanna buy a hub generator till the Nordlight wears out. I use a 1 LED frog on the bars for a perma-glow.

Busch and Muller say that any normal dynamo will run the light.

BM LINK to IQ Fly page.

I would have no hesitation about using a bottle dynamo with this light.

Thank you.

glueman wrote:Thank you.

Happy to unstick you.

Tony1968 wrote:

T800 wrote:I currently have a D'Lumotec Oval Senso Plus as a primary light and an E6-Z with a 3W bulb as a secondary. Does anyone know if the Fly IQ Senso can be wired up with a secondary lamp? Would those of you who have the Fly IQ think that there's no need to run an E6-Z with it?

I'd like to know this too. I currently have a SON running a basic lumotec round halogen (2.4w) main headlamp, E6-Z secondary (3w) and Dtoplight+ LED rear lamp. I live in the country so need both headlamps. This setup works well but I like the idea of even more light and the automatic function. Best of all would be the reliability of LED. I don't mind sticking with halogen for the secondary lamp and would rather not make it obsolete as the E6-Z isn't cheap!

So, if I were to invest in one of these lamps would it be possible to keep the secondary lamp? Is the IQ so bright that I wouldn't even notice if I had it on?

Interesting question, & I've just tested it in my garage.
I've got the new IQ LED running off a bottle dynamo, which also runs an LED dynamo rear light(Seculite). I've just temporarily connected my old halogen 2.4w front light in parallel with the IQ. With the bike hanging from a rafter,I've turned the pedals in top gear at various speeds. At low speed, with the halogen disconnected, the IQ gives a very powerful light. If I connect the halogen while maintaining this slow cadence, the IQ dims noticeably as the Halogen lights up. At higher speeds, both lights seem to give full output.
This was a crude test, but it does seem that you can run a secondary light, ideally with a manual switch to bring it into operation only above road speeds where it doesn't affect the main light.
Personally, I'm more than satisfied with the IQ so I don't think I'll be bothering with a secondary. If I regularly did 35mph descents down dangerous mountain passes, I'd want all the light I could get, & I'd probably splice in the E6 as a secondary. Hope this helps.