Got the fixed tube in .Got one side of the tyre in .Started at the valve got the tyre bead in fully except for the last 20 cms on the opposite of the valve.
The small tyre lever distorts the tyre and while it seats the tyre comes out further down.Very difficult to lever tyre back on for last 20cms opposite valve position.
Any good tips for getting the last 20 cms of tyre back on ?Its a newish tyre and for some reason is harder to refit.
(Local bike shop is very helpful and would do it but would like to know how)
Punctures
From the bicycling guru himself:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html#tireinstallation
The method he describes matches the way I was taught, so I know it works.
Hope this helps
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html#tireinstallation
The method he describes matches the way I was taught, so I know it works.
Hope this helps
puncture
hi melanie
i put on a new Gatorskin25mm a couple of weeks ago that was very tight
i find talcum powder a great help at fitting, and it might reduce probability of snake bites by allowing the tube to slip around in the tyre
i find a var lever helpful, tho i did break one many years ago, and would recommend it in your emergency repair kit
i just read sheldon-brown, and note that he recommends a manual stretch of a new tyre, which i shall try in future
tyres are different diameters, and to an extent are elastic, so new ones may need to be stretched
however a couple of weeks ago i found the ultimate solution; i was returning from a 500 mile C2C trip to durness, and a slow pucture developed as darkness fell, rain started to fall, and cold was inthe air, so i pumped up 4 times enough to get 10 miles further to Dinnet, where a 201 bus came by 5 minutes later, so i waved my bus pass, put the bike in the boot, and arrived home in time to have a quick bite and go out dancing. that might not be good enough for the purists, but it was ok by me.
i put on a new Gatorskin25mm a couple of weeks ago that was very tight
i find talcum powder a great help at fitting, and it might reduce probability of snake bites by allowing the tube to slip around in the tyre
i find a var lever helpful, tho i did break one many years ago, and would recommend it in your emergency repair kit
i just read sheldon-brown, and note that he recommends a manual stretch of a new tyre, which i shall try in future
tyres are different diameters, and to an extent are elastic, so new ones may need to be stretched
however a couple of weeks ago i found the ultimate solution; i was returning from a 500 mile C2C trip to durness, and a slow pucture developed as darkness fell, rain started to fall, and cold was inthe air, so i pumped up 4 times enough to get 10 miles further to Dinnet, where a 201 bus came by 5 minutes later, so i waved my bus pass, put the bike in the boot, and arrived home in time to have a quick bite and go out dancing. that might not be good enough for the purists, but it was ok by me.
Re: Punctures
melanie wrote:The small tyre lever distorts the tyre and while it seats the tyre comes out further down.Very difficult to lever tyre back on for last 20cms opposite valve position.
Tyres do vary, and new tyres are much stiffer than used ones of the same make.
The last few inches are always going to be the troublespot. I find it helps to position a tyre lever carefully (making sure that the tube hasnt been trapped) and use it single handed to keep up a modest pressure while the other hand roams round the rest of the rim making sure that the tyre beads are well down in the rim. That sometimes improves things so that the job can be finished by fingers alone, but if not I just use the tyre levers. With years of practice my requirements have changed from three steel levers to two plastic ones {smug smiley}
punctures.
Since I bought my bike (it's the one & only bike I have),I've only had one puncture after 12000 miles.That was caused by a thorn through the side of the tyre while dragging the bike through a forest in Wales.
The tyres I use are Shwalbe Double Defense Marathon XR.
They have a Kevlar belt inside the tread.
I was told they are ALMOST puncture proof,and they seem to live up to this....Forget punctures!
The bike (an Orbit Romany Expedition) is used literally ALL year round...Salty roads,rain,whatever nature or the council gritting lorries can throw at us.It goes along rocky tracks,through deep mud.After 5 years of this savage treatment it still looks good.The rims (Alex DH30) are still dead true.the stainless steel spokes still shine like new.
It looks a bit rough in parts... a dent in the downtube,chips in the paint...But it's had a lot of rough treatment...A bit like me.
The tyres I use are Shwalbe Double Defense Marathon XR.
They have a Kevlar belt inside the tread.
I was told they are ALMOST puncture proof,and they seem to live up to this....Forget punctures!
The bike (an Orbit Romany Expedition) is used literally ALL year round...Salty roads,rain,whatever nature or the council gritting lorries can throw at us.It goes along rocky tracks,through deep mud.After 5 years of this savage treatment it still looks good.The rims (Alex DH30) are still dead true.the stainless steel spokes still shine like new.
It looks a bit rough in parts... a dent in the downtube,chips in the paint...But it's had a lot of rough treatment...A bit like me.
I prefer to start opposite the valve so that the last bit can be helped by forcing the valve against the tyre. If sticky and no talc to hand, wet the rim flange with spittle to lubricate it. The only tyre lever to use for putting the tyre back on the rim is the VAR one, which pulls the tyre on from the outside and will not pinch the tube.