Chain Keeper for Cleaning Chain?

Heltor Chasca · Post by **Heltor Chasca** » 30 Jan 2015, 5:37pm

On a tangent from the forum's 'What Chain Lube?' thread, I saw a potentially nifty gadget (chain keeper) on the potentially wrist-slitting video.

Today I think I could have done with one: With winter crud and grease you either cake your wheel in detritus if you leave it on while cleaning or you scratch your chain stays if you take the wheel off. Devil you do and devil if you don't.

Does anyone use one when cleaning their chain?

If so would one suit a disc brake system? And if it does are they cheap enough/good enough value to use as a maintenance tool?

That aside: How do you cheat to keep tension in the chain and off the paintwork?

Yours truly,

Heltor Chasca

Des49 · Post by **Des49** » 30 Jan 2015, 7:22pm

I have used a chain keeper for decades when cleaning my bikes. Firstly an improvised one from an old hub, then a proper one made out of aluminium that just clamps to the rhs dropout. Keeps the chain in normal tension with a deraileur and certainly makes cleaning easier.

Recently I mislaid it and brought a new Morgan Blue one.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/morgan-blue-cha ... 60381912uk

This is great, it holds the chain further away from the dropout with the conical shape allowing a brush to reach right into the dropout area that my older one didn't allow.

Of course soon after purchasing the new version I found the old one!

Post by **Mick F** » 31 Jan 2015, 9:05am

When I had my frame built, I specified a chain hanger braze-on for the RH seatstay. My previous bike was a Raleigh Clubman circa 1983 and that had one as standard. They are excellent for hanging the chain when you take the rear wheel out for maintenance/puncture.

The best way to clean your bike and chain, is not to bother with a chain hanger of any sort, but use a Power Link and completely remove the chain. It's a cheaper and easier solution.

Heltor Chasca · Post by **Heltor Chasca** » 31 Jan 2015, 9:52am

Mick F wrote:...The best way to clean your bike and chain, is not to bother with a chain hanger of any sort, but use a Power Link and completely remove the chain. It's a cheaper and easier solution.

Something I haven't done since my filthy MTB days. One question Mick: does it matter which way you put the chain back on? In other words does the chain, drive-train teeth etc 'wear' in a certain way that could cause noise or loss of efficiency?

[emoji615]️Years ago a young bike mechanic in London told me that if you change your chain you also need to change all your gear cogs and chain rings[emoji383]

Post by **Mick F** » 31 Jan 2015, 10:01am

It matters not which way you put it back.
Also, providing you clean your chain frequently, things like cogs don't wear very quickly at all.

If you allow your chain to get dirty - if it feels "gritty" when you bend and feel it - it's far too well gone. You need to clean it well before that occurs.

If you do leave it too long, maybe the chain needs to go back on in the same direction, but generally it makes no difference at all and I haven't a clue how many times mine gets reversed or otherwise - I pay no attention at all, and have never done.

Best thing to do is buy another chain, so you can clean one whilst the other is being used.

LollyKat · Post by **LollyKat** » 31 Jan 2015, 10:03am

Heltor Chasca wrote:Years ago a young bike mechanic in London told me that if you change your chain you also need to change all your gear cogs and chain rings

Well, if you've let your chain wear and 'stretch' too much it will also have worn the sprockets and rings to match, so that a new chain won't fit, and will only skip. Hence all the posts and advice on chain cleaning and measuring, to get the longest life out of the rest of the transmission.

As a rough rule of thumb, the sprockets will last for three chains, and the chainrings for three cassettes, depending on your riding style.

See Measuring chain wear (again).

Bikefayre · Post by **Bikefayre** » 2 Feb 2015, 2:47pm

The old fashioned way was to wrap newspaper around the chain then pedal fast backwards whilst leaning the bike against something with a cloth to protect the frame. Can even remember a time when cyclist use to remove the chain and soak it in petrol. For myself use a brush and self cleaning oil - 2 Stroke Oregon Chainsaw Oil which repels the dirt and aye it's a wee bit messy so do not over brush.

Redvee · Post by **Redvee** » 2 Feb 2015, 4:49pm

Was directed to this YT video from elsewhere on the net

[youtube]SXQK4VOpSY0[/youtube]

Heltor Chasca · Post by **Heltor Chasca** » 2 Feb 2015, 5:25pm

Redvee wrote:Was directed to this YT video from elsewhere on the net

[youtube]SXQK4VOpSY0[/youtube]

Cripes! I counted and he's still got 10 digits[emoji62] Not sure how but he does. Good DIY video though. Thanks for sharing...hc

Post by **Mick F** » 3 Feb 2015, 8:32am

Good video, but absolutely pointless.

Buy a power link and fit it to your chain.
If you want to clean your chain .................... TAKE IT OFF to clean it.

If you want a chain keeper so your chain stays put when you drop the rear wheel out, either have your frame built/modified with a chain hook on the seatstay, or make a DIY clamp-on version. It isn't rocket science. :lol:

ANTONISH · Post by **ANTONISH** » 3 Feb 2015, 9:49am

I bought one of the "Morgan" chain keepers. I can take out the back wheel and clean the chain "in situ". The advantage is that the chain wheel can be turned and with the bike in a stand its an easy process to clean the chain. I certainly think its easier than removing and replacing the chain - which I had to do before purchasing this gadget. BTW two of my bikes have chain hooks.

Post by **Mick F** » 3 Feb 2015, 8:36pm

ANTONISH wrote:............. its an easy process to clean the chain. I certainly think its easier than removing and replacing the chain ...............

It might be easier, but it is useless.

"Clean" your chain like that if you want to, but it won't be clean.
It's a pointless task to do it like that.

Take the chain off the bike and clean it properly. It takes seconds to take it off, and five minutes to clean it properly.
It takes a while to dry it of course, so buy another chain whilst it's drying.
One chain on, and one in the wash. Minutes of effort, and perfectly clean chains.

ANTONISH · Post by **ANTONISH** » 4 Feb 2015, 9:41am

I use some detergent and an old scrubbing brush. Then I rinse it off and spray on some GT85. I let that drip off with the surplus water. Wipe off residue and apply epic ride or clean ride depending on the season.
I'm quite happy with the longevity of my chains, cassettes and chainrings.
More than one way to skin a cat I think.

Post by **Mick F** » 4 Feb 2015, 10:18am

Oh definitely more than one way to skin a cat.
It's just that the video shows you how to make a chain keeper.

Say you have already made one, or even bought one ............... you dropped the wheel out, fitted it, and begun to clean your chain, you may as well have taken the chain off as I describe, as it's quicker and easier.

Skin your cat anyway you want.

ANTONISH · Post by **ANTONISH** » 4 Feb 2015, 10:30am

OK Mick- I neglected to mention I was also able to give the cassette a scrub and clean those bits of the frame that are hard to access with the wheel in situ.
I don't doubt you have a method though :wink:

( You probably know how to skin a cat as well).

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