vandjq wrote:Thanks for the prompt replies, guys: I guess you don't agree with John Allen:
'•A front disc brake stresses one blade of the front fork very heavily, requiring a stronger, heavier fork, resulting in a bumpier ride with a non-suspension fork,
Taken care of easily with a larger section tyre,if you're worried about extra weight buy Vittoria Voyager Hypers or Randoneur Pro tyres
and if a fork isn't quite rigid enough, producing 'brake steer".
If it is a disc specific fork it won't.
•A front disc brake caliper behind the fork blade generates a powerful force tending to loosen a quick release and pull the wheel out of the fork. Special hub and fork designs are needed to surmount this problem.
What manufacturer in their right mind would fit a disc brake to a non disc spec fork?
BTW I have Halo Hexlock skewers fitted to all five disc bikes,mainly so the wheels don't go walkies when I'm in a cafe.I don't need qr skewers as I'm not racing so don't need a quick wheel change,so I've no worries there.
•Disc brakes are generally heavier than rim brakes.
Agreed but their advantages far out weight their sight weight penalty
•Disc brakes are more complicated, expensive and difficult to maintain than rim brakes or drum brakes.
I can't speak for hydraulic discs,but the Avid BB7's provide far better braking in all conditions than any other type of brake I've used,and are an absolute doddle set up and maintain which is minimal, and by far easier and less trouble than rim brakes.
I can't speak for drums as the only drum brake I'm familiar with are Arai drag brakes on tandems which give no problems.
•Some disc brakes are grabby. This problem is likely if dirt gets trapped between the calipers.
I've been using cable discs for over 8 years and have never experienced that phenomena,in fact it's the first time I've ever heard of it
•Disc brakes require special fittings on the frame and fork, and special hubs.
Agreed but where's the problem with that?
Once the bike is built that problem ceases to be any kind of a problem.
•Disc brakes can interfere with baggage racks and fender stays.
All my bikes with discs have mudguards and I can honestly say the interference is minimal, mudguard stays are easily and simply adjusted to fit,and once fitted need no further maintenance or concern any more than m/guards fitted to rim brake bikes .
Racks can be adapted simply with a bit of bending and a spacer or two,or a disc specific rack bought to fit straight on.
•The disc is vulnerable and easily bent. Other hub brakes do not have this weakness.
Disc rotors can be bent,but I've yet to manage to bend one.
I've had one or two out of true,which was easily trued up with an adjustable spanner clamped on the spoke(s)of the rotor,it took me about <5 minutes to fix.
•Hub flange spacing is often reduced, resulting in a weaker wheel.
Left side front wheel is slightly dished but nowhere near as much as a dished rear wheel on the driveside.If you ride Campag the rear driveside dish is about as bad as you can get,more so with 11sp+ wheels and far,far worse than a front disc wheel.
The rear non driveside,is unaffected by disc brakes.
•Adjustment may be difficult to avoid calipers' rubbing on the rotor when the brake is not in use.
Only true if the rotor is out of true,see above how to true up a rotor.
•The disc gets extremely hot and can cause injury if touched, and melt nearby plastic or cloth items.
I find the best thing is not to touch a rotor directly after a long descent when the brake's been used a lot.I've monitored this and found the 203mm discs on our tandem(with approx 190kgs of bike two people and two rear panniers)after some serious braking on a 2 mile long North Wales descent,which made the rotor a rather attractive straw colour,took less than minute for me to be able to touch without harm.
No plastic parts have yet melted on any of my disc brakes.
I don't go near my disc brakes with any kind of cloth and only use a little nail varnish remover on a square of kitchen roll,to clean the rotor and pads occasionally.
Care must be taken to use the correct brake fluid with a hydraulically-actuated disc brake, so it does not boil, resulting in loss of braking'
I don't use hydro's or feel I need them.
If I can lock up either wheel with two fingers on the brake lever I reckon that's enough brake power I'll ever need and the modultion of BB7's are great too
I should stress that I've never ridden a bike with disc brakes and am simply weighing up the pros and cons
Been using them for over 8 years and upto last year was averaging 7 to 9k miles per annum,on tandems and solo bikes and an MTB.
The pros far outweigh the cons,especially in wet and or mucky conditions.They need minimal maintenance,pads far out last rim brake pads,and there's no rim wear.And unless riding in filthy and or wet off road conditions pad adjustment is also minimal.
What's not to like?
PS,should you overcome someone else's prejudice,make sure you buy the best calipers,I've had no problems with Avid BB7's