best conversion kit

[Bonefishblues]

Thanks. Much to learn I have.

[willcee]

Learning every time I build a machine and use all my own experience to try different things on each new build.. discs and big tyre clearance would be a definitive decision on any frameset i would choose now.. Someone on here gave me sage advice several years since, but being me I went my own way on a learning curve.. steep, but worthwhile and every bloody thing he said was absolutely on the money... thats why and how i found lightness doesn't really matter, as i said before unless you are hoiking it up steps and stairs into a urban dwelling.. will

[Polisman]

Learning every time I build a machine and use all my own experience to try different things on each new build.. discs and big tyre clearance would be a definitive decision on any frameset i would choose now.. Someone on here gave me sage advice several years since, but being me I went my own way on a learning curve.. steep, but worthwhile and every bloody thing he said was absolutely on the money... thats why and how i found lightness doesn't really matter, as i said before unless you are hoiking it up steps and stairs into a urban dwelling.. will

I get where you are coming from, but I want a bike to go out local club rides with. All on road bikes, so a Bafang mid mount fitted to a lightweight aluminium road frame the way to go for me. Cannondale Caad 9/10/12 can all be built under 6kg if you know what you're doing (SRAM gears, carbon parts) add another 6kg for motor kit / medium sized battery and I reckon I'll be on the money for a 12-13kg build.

As for weight not being an issue, surely the weight IS an issue when riding uphill as you're drawing so much more load to shift the extra 10-15kg of a typical mountain bike /shocks set up? I really see the advantages of ebike in climbing hills, especially around me. Lightweight even better as I have to lug it up a flight of stairs when I get home

[Polisman]

Just out of interest, I know the steel chainring/chain guard on the Bafang units can be swapped for a standard 5 arm aluminium conversion and a cnc chainring, but could the supplied cranks be swapped for something lighter? I'm thinking of lot of the weight is tied up in these bog standard steel /alloy cranks. A set of Middleburn cranks and a cnc chainring (a mod recommended on US Bafang sites) could probably knock another 1.5kg off the total weight.

What do you reckon to the Silverfish 36V 10ah batteries? (3.25kg)

[Eric Leck]

sorry to jump in guys ,but does anyone know if these hub drive motor can be fitted to take the chain on the left side ,as the chain is on tandems

[stodd]

Most tandems have the front chain on the left; but the back chain (to the rear hub) goes on the right to a totally conventional rear derailleur setup. Some have the front chain on the right as well; but that still leaves the rear hub arrangement standard.

Maybe you meant to ask about crank drive motors?

[willcee]

Polisman... Bafang cranks V Middleburn.... I don't know how you weigh stuff but both are all alloy and whatever difference would be its never going to be 3/5 lbs.. most definitely you need a ride on a Bafang equipped lightweight and then you will see what the torque means on any hill , they just don't matter. if you use the gears , no matter how steep. thats why i say about the bike weight... it don't matter..it does however matter on rough roads you hit the rough stuff harder heavier and faster.. get aboard one before you go any further.. will

[Polisman]

I reckon the Bafang cranks are low grade 6061 alloy, and look very chunky. Teamed with the steel chainring and guard, you're probably in the 1.6kg ballpark. Middleburn cranks and the adapter /cnc chainring probably 3-400 the set. So a 3lb weight saving very achievable. It's something you would notice in a lightweight build.

[Polisman]

Noted though. I am going to test ride the Orbea carbon offering at 12kg over the weekend to see what is like on and off road.

[willcee]

Polisman , notice 3lb in a bafang equipped bike, very much doubt that, just built 2 this past week , neither cranks and steel ring were near 3lbs weight.. more like 1.5.. and an Orbea with less than 40n/m torque will in no way compare to even a 250 Bafang..i know 'cause my chum who rides with me and has done for perhaps 15/6 years has had both an Alloy and Carbon Orbea , rides the Carbon on a nice day, when he goes out with me takes his top line model Giant E road dongled up, within excess of 100n/m. more like the job.. will

[Eric Leck]

Most tandems have the front chain on the left; but the back chain (to the rear hub) goes on the right to a totally conventional rear derailleur setup. Some have the front chain on the right as well; but that still leaves the rear hub arrangement standard.

Maybe you meant to ask about crank drive motors?

lol yep ,meant crank drive ,dont know what i was thinking if

[stodd]

lol yep ,meant crank drive ,dont know what i was thinking if

Crank drive conversion will be more awkward on a tandem. I guess if it is the (rarer) setup with front chain on the right then a regular crank drive at the front would work. Worth asking on Pedalecs (https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/forums ... ussion.42/), and an email or call to Woosh (http://wooshbikes.co.uk/) will almost certainly get a quick(ish) and helpful response. Probably worth adding photos.

We used a Woosh front conversion for our tandem. The XF07 is a little low on power (Woosh warned us) but there was no sensible 700c alternative at the time. Still does what we need; a bit of encouragement on the flat and lots of help on the hills, but still needing plenty from us on the hills as well. Woosh supplied it with all cables appropriately extended for the tandem. One disadvantage of front hub drive on a regular bike is it can be slippy on hills; this is not really an issue with tandems because of the different weight distribution. Having motor power on the front and our power on the back has helped out in a few slippy situations,