Advise controller display

[Mog]

I am trying to repair a Claud Butler Glide 2. Battery is good, plus I have a spare. Original problem was the display had some buttons missing, letting water in, causing large amount of corrosion. I have tried to bypass the display and ended up with a runaway bike in the workshop. I look at controller / display kits but some have 6 hall wires, mine has 5. There is a crank sensor, thats working.

I need advice re which controller and display will work. At the moment it appears to have throttle and assist. Any advice please.
Thanks Stuart

[stodd]

I can't help directly, but if you ask the question on https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/forums ... cussion.2/ you will get some very informed suggestions.

[hemo]

Stuart, your crank sensor is it a magnet disk and fixed sensor head type ?
If it is a torque sensor one then a TS controller is needed and are not common.

All controllers which are sensored/sinewave will work with any hub with 5 or 6 sensor wires the additional sixth sensor wire a white one is for internal hub speed sensing, your hub doesn't have this and uses an external one with a spoke magnet. In this case the white wire from the controller hall block/connector is simply not used and makes no difference.

The best after market controller to buy is a Kuenteng/KT controller and LCD3 or LCD4. Best places to buy are Topbikekit, BMS battery, PSWPower or Greenbikekit alternatively there are stores on Aliexpress.

[Mog]

Thank you for your replies so far. The crank sensor is a magnet disc, and what seems to be a hall effect switch. So if i was to buy a display/controller as a pair I should be OK? The connector by the hub is a 9 pin round connector. I probably won't keep the bike, but use the money for a battery for my other bike.

Also the spoke sensor seems to of been fitted with a non-standard, all the cables look durable, except this one, just cheap 2 core speaker wire type of cable.

Another question, how does pedal assist work, how does it know how much to assist? I have another bike which relies on a torque sensor.

Sorry I will probably have loads more questions

[hemo]

The sensor is a rudimentary switch and doesn't know how hard one is pedalling, ii senses pulses as the magnets pass.. It will waft a rider along as long as the cranks are rotated. The hub if it has nine wires (a sensored hub) will have an internal speed sensor ( this being the white wire at the controller), if the internal sensor has failed then may be the reason an external one is fitted.
If replacing the controller then yes a compatible display is needed so best to buy as a pair. A two wire speed sensor often robbed from a cheap wired computer only utilises a ground and signal connection.

[Mog]

Thanks for that, I think straight throttle control would be fine, I have included two pictures, hall wires motor end and controller end, throttle only would be fine would something like this work?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24V-36V-48V- ... 4138280211

I understand what most of the connections, intelligent identification, accelerator, electric brake, I am not sure.

[hemo]

Your motor cable Julet fitting has 9 pins the corresponding other end to the controller should have a 6 pin connector + the 3 phase wire bullets, I would have though Pic #1 is the display connection ?

Can you show a pic of your display.

Pic 2 is the 9 pin hub motor connector (should have Julet embossed on it), this connects to the controller via a Julet 9 pin extension cable. There are two types one with a M/F ends and one with Female end and a block 6 wire block connector and 3 phase bullets.
Your controller might have the cable already which you can reuse, again show a pic of what the 9 pin motor connector connects to.

The cheapo controller/lcd is by Brainpower and the parameter settings can be awkward to setup/understand, the controller gives max current/power in each of the 5 assist levels with each having a varying max speed. The controller is known as a speed controller , they tend to be less sure friendly as instead of controlling the current/power they always give you the shove in the back.
The more expensive current controllers are better and the user can control the power levels as each one gives a different current/loading.

[hemo]

If you don't have the hub motor cable you will need the one in the link or the same from any other vendor identified as B.
For simple connect up to the Brainpower controller you must buy the cable with the White dj7061 connector block as the blocks aren't easy to find. One simply marries up colour to colour and then join the learn wires on the controller together, the controller then learns to sync the motor phase/hall sequence for smooth running and fwd direction once this occurs one turns the power off and disconnects the learn wires. When the power is turned on again all should be ticketyboo.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-M ... %7Ciid%3A1

[hemo]

For twice the price one can get the very popular Kuenteng KT controller/lcd which are more user friendly and give five better control/power levels.
The five assist levels give 13%, 20%, 33%, 50% & 100% power via the PAS sensor on the cranks.

[hemo]

The PAS pedal sensor you currently have should work with any controller set up, you just have to wire up the sequence correctly.

[Mog]

Just ordered one, fingers crossed