Power Problem

Electrically assisted bikes, trikes, etc. that are legal in the UK
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groberts
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Power Problem

Post by groberts »

Following a TKR operation in 2017 I converted my Trek MTB 830 to an E-Bike using Cyclotricity kit, which has been exceelnt and literally kept me on the road since then viewtopic.php?f=55&t=116387 - though my right knee is now going too!

My trusty 1990 bike has been giving me some rear brake problems recently and to get better access to the brakes this week I needed to disconnect the two main E-Bike cables - one connecting the rear control box to the LCD screen on the handlebars (see pictures attached) and the other to the front hub motor. Before doing this I'd just ridden up the road to check the brakes + the battery was fully charged and the bike was fine (E-bike wise).
IMG_20210728_111811194.jpg
IMG_20210728_111805993.jpg
However, after finishing work on the brakes I reconnected both the said cables and now the motor doesn't work anymore and shows an empty battery on the LCD, though the charger confrims it's fully charged + all the connector pins are in good order and each part of the connectors are firmly pushed together.

This is litterally the first time I've done anything to the E-conversion since 2017 and was meticulous about handling the connectors etc. so find this situation rather baffling. I spoke to Cyclotricity yesterday and they've suggested that I need a new £43.50 LCD cable from the control box, which I find bizarre.

Does this sound plausible and if not are there any other ideas about what might have gone wrong?

Graham
Jdsk
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Re: Power Problem

Post by Jdsk »

Is there a reset procedure for the controller?

Jonathan
groberts
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Re: Power Problem

Post by groberts »

Jdsk wrote: 28 Jul 2021, 11:56am Is there a reset procedure for the controller?

Jonathan
Not that I know of / have not seen reference to such a procedure anywhere - it's just a small closed alloy box that sits behind the rack mounted battery with the aforesaid cables coming out.

Graham
rjb
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Re: Power Problem

Post by rjb »

I would try disconnecting the cables again. Carefully inspect them to see if any connecting pins are damaged. Reconnect the controller then the battery.
At the last count:- Peugeot 531 pro, Dawes Discovery Tandem, Dawes Kingpin X3, Raleigh 20 stowaway, 1965 Moulton deluxe, Falcon K2 MTB dropped bar tourer, Rudge Bi frame folder, Longstaff trike conversion on a Giant XTC 840 :D
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willcee
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Re: Power Problem

Post by willcee »

It may sound stupid but check the battery hasn't moved off its rack pin position, having built perhaps 3 doz now i leave nothing to chance even if i haven't been near it, several times i have discovered that after a load of mileage the dancing around that the battery does when sited anywhere that gets vibration and thats anywhere on any bike the pins and the click mechanism that holds some of them in becomes loose, and you lose connectivity.. Bump on the road was my first issue with this... now either in your bag on a rack use big reusable cable ties. or on the down tube a small suitcase safety strap which holds it on tight as a drum...will
Oldjohnw
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Re: Power Problem

Post by Oldjohnw »

willcee wrote: 28 Jul 2021, 4:32pm It may sound stupid but check the battery hasn't moved off its rack pin position, having built perhaps 3 doz now i leave nothing to chance even if i haven't been near it, several times i have discovered that after a load of mileage the dancing around that the battery does when sited anywhere that gets vibration and thats anywhere on any bike the pins and the click mechanism that holds some of them in becomes loose, and you lose connectivity.. Bump on the road was my first issue with this... now either in your bag on a rack use big reusable cable ties. or on the down tube a small suitcase safety strap which holds it on tight as a drum...will
In my early days of ebiking I lost all power including on the LCD screen. I discovered that the rack located battery had moved about 3 mm and therefore lost connection. I can lock the battery in place which instantly solved the problem.
John
groberts
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Re: Power Problem

Post by groberts »

rjb wrote: 28 Jul 2021, 1:36pm I would try disconnecting the cables again. Carefully inspect them to see if any connecting pins are damaged. Reconnect the controller then the battery.
I was going to say "I have already done this a number of times but can find nothing wrong" which is true but did go back just one more time and guess what - one of the very fine pins on the LCD cable connector was bent and missing its hole, doh!!! I'm still not sure how I (a) did this and (b) missed if after inspecting a number of times, obviously not as meticulous as I need to be.

I am very grateful to everyone's thoughts and delighted to get this fixed, with one TKR and probably another on the way the E-conversion of this bike has saved my cycling. I'd really like to convert my Dawes Audax and get it back on the road but never really found an acceptable kit for such a bike with drops. Next step probably has to be a bespoke e-bike?

Graham
Last edited by groberts on 28 Jul 2021, 5:10pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jdsk
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Re: Power Problem

Post by Jdsk »

Well done. And great advice.

Jonathan
Nigel
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Re: Power Problem

Post by Nigel »

groberts wrote: 28 Jul 2021, 5:06pm .........
I am very grateful to everyone's thoughts and delighted to get this fixed, with one TKR and probably another on the way the E-conversion of this bike has saved my cycling. I'd really like to convert my Dawes Audax and get it back on the road but never really found an acceptable kit for such a bike with drops. Next step probably has to be a bespoke e-bike?
Good to hear the problem fixed, shows the value of a forum.

For the Dawes, is the problem the mounting of the control head-unit (LCD and buttons), or something else ?

- Nigel
groberts
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Re: Power Problem

Post by groberts »

Yes the Forum usually comes up trumps and is a great facitily.

The Dawes Audax was my main bike until my TKR in 2017 at which time as I wasn't too impressed with the build quality etc. of eBikes so converted my trusty old MTB which has been excellent. However, I do miss a lighter / faster bike and as things have moved on since then was considering maybe something off the shelf, though I've not ruled out converting the Dawes Galaxy yet. At the time conversion options for such bikes were limited and rather messy and of limited range.

Because of my knees with the MTB conversion which has a 17Ah battery, I generally have to ride somewhere between low and mid-range settings all the time + full power for hills. From experience this gives me about 40 to 50 miles per charge, which is what I'd want if I converted the Dawes. When I last looked at this I couldn't get the range I wanted + as this is a lighter Audax version of the Dawes with maximium 700x28c wheels / tyres suitable were unavailable. Though I'm OK with most DIY on bikes I also subscribe to the KISS principal, which points towards front wheel conversion which for this bike is maybe not best + yes controls were not really suitable for drops.

Notwithstanding, things have obviously moved on & I have an open mind.

Graham
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