kwackers wrote:I've tried that particular one.
It vibrated (not too surprising given how far from the headset the end of a drop bar is), it stuck out and got in the way when filtering (or squeezing through gates) but probably the worst thing for me was the position, it's almost at my knees (slight exaggeration) so requires one to look down meaning you can't even see the road ahead out of your peripheral vision and depending on the position of your hands I found you had to look around your arms to see it.
On this thread viewtopic.php?f=1&t=122405 there were quite a few endorsements of that mirror from other riders. I appreciate that we are all different, and for various reasons what suits some will not suit others, but it does appear that the B&M mirror suits many of us.
With regard to your points:
- "It vibrated" - My own experience is that the ball and socket mount is very good, and even riding off road I do not find that the mirror moves as a result of vibration. There might be some variation in manufacturing tolerances, but I have a number of the mirrors, and although the ball and sockets of one or two are noticeably a bit tighter/stiffer than the others, none are loose as such and none move from their position once adjusted.
- "it stuck out and got in the way when filtering (or squeezing through gates)" - As I said, we are all different: I would not filter where the gap was so narrow that the extra ~20mm from the outside edge of the bars (I've just measured it on one of my bikes) made a significant difference to the available space to filter. In fact that 20mm projection is going to be the same or less than the amount by which your hand adds to the width of your handlebars where it grips the hoods (albeit at a different height to the mirror). Similarly, the range of drop handlebar widths varies by more than that 20mm.
NB 1 I presume it was the 60mm diameter mirror you tried? Obviously the 80mm is wider, but having tried both I find the 60mm is quite adequate, and I would say bigger is not better in this case.
NB 2 The ball is off centre on the mirror, and the socket is also off centre in the bar end plug: this allows for some variation in positioning, but I think the bar plug is supposed to be rotated such that the socket is uppermost [twelve o'clock]. Rotating the plug so that the socket is in the outermost [three o'clock] position and similarly positioning the mirror so that it extends as far outwards from the bars as it could possibly go might well result in movement as a result of vibration and would reduce the clearance for going through gaps.
- "probably the worst thing for me was the position, it's almost at my knees (slight exaggeration) so requires one to look down meaning you can't even see the road ahead out of your peripheral vision and depending on the position of your hands I found you had to look around your arms to see it." - That's probably going to depend a bit on bike set up, handlebar height/shape/drop, stem length and preferred position. I can well imagine that some smaller/shorter riders and others who prefer/need a very short reach might find the mirror too close to the knees (which would also increase the angle by which the head would need to look down compared with a more stretched out position on the bike). Certainly drop bars combined with aero levers do make it difficult to locate a mirror on the bars. As to the mirror being obscured by the arm, the wide variety of hand positions offered by drops mean that the mirror will inevitably be obscured by one hand position or another. My own experience is that it's trivial to move my elbow slightly outwards when the mirror is obscured by my forearm.
At the end of the day like all mirrors it's a compromise, and I suspect that, like most compromises, it's case of getting used to it. I still find myself looking over my shoulder at times for situations when it would be much easier, quicker and safer to check the mirror, because I've simply forgotten about the mirror.