Want to start mountain biking - what bike model should I buy?

[hjd10]

Anyway, all this full suspension malarkay, I don't entirely get it.
Isn't the idea to get out on the rough stuff?
Why then buy a bike that then makes all the bumps feel like smooth tarmac?????

If only it did
IME rear suspension improves grip on bumpy climbs, and takes away some of the big hits, making all day riding more pleasurable.
YMMV, of course.

This model received bike of the year by MBR.....

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/calibre-bos ... ke-p347143

Not too much more than you have to spend but it really is a good spec (full Deore) for the price.

[krystians]

Wow, thank you all for answers, it will take a while to check all the stuff you mentioned

It is just the kind of help I needed - amazing:)

I will definitely let you know about my final choice soon.

[Username]

Budget aside, what is so bad about a full susser?

I have a bike for the road, a bike for commuting and a MTB. When I purchased my MTB there was little point in me only going for a front suspension. Might aswell go all out as I want a bike specifically for rougher stuff. My Stumpjumper is ****ing amazing. I enjoy it far more than my 150mph motorbike.

[crossroads]

Hi, as said by others for £700 you need to be looking at a Hard Tail - nothing wrong with full Suss but you will learn more and quicker on a Hard tail.
Advice it difficult as what you feel you will want to do now may be different to what it will be in a year but you have to start somewhere.
Mail order brands like Canyon etc. probably offer best value but you cant see it in a shop and try it out etc. - having been down a similar route to you over the last few years I would say avoid a bike with Tektro brakes if possible, get Shimano if you can, I found the Tektro brakes very wooden and lacking in feel - unfortunately they are common on your budget - they work and are okay but not great.
Try to get 2x10 not a 3x9 - not a game changer but worth it.
Budget for a dropper seat post later as that will be well worth it if you do any sort of singletrack riding.

I think for £700 you can get a decent Hard Tail and will have a lot of fun - good luck and enjoy whatever you end up with.

[crossroads]

This isn't a MTB forum.

This is - http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=20005

Al

Oh yes its is.......

[mattsccm]

I'll answer the last question. Breakdown cover. I am aware that such a thing exists but have never heard, even 10th hand, of anyone having such a thing. I bet 1 in 10,000 don't have it. Maybe 1 in 100,000. Just learn to do a few basics and the bike won't brake.
Insurance. If you mean against theft, your house insurance is usually the cheapest. Check first and any restrictions. If you want 3rd party liability join either British Cycle or Cycling Uk. Compare what they offer. Nothing is needed.
Why not enquire about local clubs? Many won't offer much as MTBing doesn't need a club in many ways, at least if you live near MTB country side but some do.

[reohn2]

...... Just learn to do a few basics and the bike won't brake......

I take it you mean it'll just keep going

[pjclinch]

Budget aside, what is so bad about a full susser?

Benefits are more efficient on the bumps and better traction, at the expense of weight (and, off the bike, potentially maintenance overhead). Which is more significant depends on both rider and route.

Clearly one isn't better than the other, end of, or at the top of the game where budget's not really a factor everyone would be on one or the other. But they aren't.

I know you said "budget aside", but it's worth remembering that doing suspension properly is non-trivial engineering, and you can't do that on the cheap. If you don't pay enough for full sus it probably will be paying to be worse off than a hardtail, though I'm not even going to try and hazard a guess at the general price point where that's an issue.

A pal has recently upgraded from hardtail to full sus because he's getting a bit older and is more interested in cushioning than outright speed over a course. Can't say I blame him... recently upgraded from my 20 year old rigid to something with suspension forks, but with my budget of £400 max a full sus would've been a waste, especially as I don't do that much MTB.


Pete.

[Airsporter1st]

Having recently returned to cycling after a very long lay off, my advice would be to spend as little as you can on the first bike, because you will inevitably find yourself realising exactly what is important to you once you have got some time in the saddle. Your next purchase can then be a lot closer to what you really need.

I'm no expert, but this reflects my own experience - I thought I knew what I wanted, spent a good chunk of hard-earned cash on my first bike and then over the next year realised that practically none of it really suits........

[pjclinch]

Having recently returned to cycling after a very long lay off, my advice would be to spend as little as you can on the first bike, because you will inevitably find yourself realising exactly what is important to you once you have got some time in the saddle. Your next purchase can then be a lot closer to what you really need.

I'm no expert, but this reflects my own experience - I thought I knew what I wanted, spent a good chunk of hard-earned cash on my first bike and then over the next year realised that practically none of it really suits........

A lot of truth in that, but on the other hand a reasonably competent not particularly focused hardtail will do far more than a starting rider will likely be able to push it to, and could well be all you ever need.

I have a second-hand half-price-at-£300 Cannondale that I can't see me growing beyond. My criteria were it had to fit, take a rack, have hydraulic disc brakes and not be a 29 (I don't really like bigger wheels). It replaced a very old EBC rigid I bought 20 years ago and the transmission would have cost more to replace than the bike was really worth, and but for that I'd still be using it.

Pete.