the components of the perfect puncture repair?

[SolarBrian]

Myself and my work colleagues have been bemoaning that after 20/30 years of fixing punctures we're only getting a 70% success rate (though I carry spare tubes, fix the punctures at home & leave them hung up inflated a few days before they go back in the tool kit, just to be sure).
So I've decided enough is enough & it's time to figure out what are the components of the perfect puncture repair

I have a few thoughts -
1) Quality of vulcanizing solution - favourite brands?
2) Age of vulcanizing solution - does it go stale & not cure properly even when still liquid?
3) Quality of patches - favourite brands?
4) Size of patch - relative to size of hole and tube diameter?
4) Curing time - what is optimal?
5) Quality of sandpaper - wet&dry or a nail file?

any others I've missed?

(4&5) borrowed from another thread viewtopic.php?f=1&t=110455

[gaz]

So I've decided enough is enough & it's time to figure out what are the components of the perfect puncture repair

Hold wheel aloft in air, await arrival of team car .

[Airsporter1st]

Once, between jobs, I worked in a tyre repair depot and repaired hundreds of punctures. We used Rema Tip Top solution and patches. The surface was buffed until rough, solution applied and left until touch dry and then the patch applied and rolled on firmly with a narrow roller, paying careful attention to the edges.

Seemed to work OK. I wonder if the application of mechanical pressure with the roller was the secret ingredient?

[Brucey]

Myself and my work colleagues have been bemoaning that after 20/30 years of fixing punctures we're only getting a 70% success rate ...

1) Quality of vulcanizing solution - favourite brands?
2) Age of vulcanizing solution - does it go stale & not cure properly even when still liquid?
3) Quality of patches - favourite brands?
4) Size of patch - relative to size of hole and tube diameter?
5) Curing time - what is optimal?
6) Quality of sandpaper - wet&dry or a nail file?

any others I've missed?

1) Tip top, weldtite, or 'thumbs up' brand if you are on a budget. [BTW There are some which are no good at all...]
2) yes it does go off, and becomes a lot less effective before it dries out entirely
3) as per 1) but also cure-c-cure, weldtite
4) less important than how it is applied and how the tube fits the tyre, but large holes are always problematic
5) until all the solvent is gone before you apply the patch. After the patch is applied, the tube should be usable right away, and in fact the bond may improve better if the tube is fitted than if it isn't...
6) fabric-backed wet and dry

NB if the tube is very stretched inside the cover, any patch is at greater risk of lifting. Patches that are on the inside of the tube (i.e. that bear against the rim) are almost invariably stretched and are much more likely to fail. Sometimes you can twist the tube so that the patch is beneath the tread instead, and this will help it stay put.

BTW some tricks;
- if you can do, apply the patch to a tube that is stretched in a similar way to when it is fitted in the cover
- you can use a naked flame (in ~1s bursts) to get rid of the solvent in the rubber solution
- use two coats of rubber solution if you can
- in the workshop, consider using a dremel tool (with a small stone in it) to prep a partially inflated tube

In the workshop, I'll reject a portion of punctured tubes as being 'past it' but of those punctures I decide to repair, I'd expect about 98% success rate.

cheers

[bainbridge]

In my teens I like to think I perfected the art of puncture repair, then during my 20s and 30s discarded puntured tubes because replacements are so cheap.

With my new bike however 45mm tubes are pricey so it's time to start fixing them again!

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,

"1) Quality of vulcanizing solution - favourite brands?
2) Age of vulcanizing solution - does it go stale & not cure properly even when still liquid?
3) Quality of patches - favourite brands?
4) Size of patch - relative to size of hole and tube diameter?
5) Curing time - what is optimal?
6) Quality of sandpaper - wet&dry or a nail file?"

By far the most important one is 5) - Apply first coat and wait five minutes, second coat and normally 1 minute only.
Inflate tube before adding patch, I do all work with inflated tube, just reflate as you go, don't overinflate tube post patch to try it out!

[landsurfer]

Not sure if i am on message here but ....

Vittoria inner tubes in bulk from Planet X < £1 each.
Never fix a puncture again.
Pleasant nights with the wife watching TV making rubber band balls from the waste tubes ...
The road goes on forever .......

[Paulatic]

Not sure if i am on message here but ....

Vittoria inner tubes in bulk from Planet X < £1 each.
Never fix a puncture again.
Pleasant nights with the wife watching TV making rubber band balls from the waste tubes ...
The road goes on forever .......

a flash before my eyes saw the whole 'Trekmad', remember him, starting again.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=100388&hilit=Tubes&start=90

[mercalia]

you dont mention compressing the patch onto the tube so there is good contact. I will use the tyre lever to pressure the patch and use my fingers also. good contact is important. At home I have at times used my mallet carefuly

[[XAP]Bob]

I reckon a sofa is a much underestimated tool.


Compare it with the ultimate cure for seasickness - lean against a tree

[Mattyfez]

By far the most important one is 5) - Apply first coat and wait five minutes, second coat and normally 1 minute only.

This. Many a swear word and inner tube thrown away by treating it like normal glue.

[531colin]

By far the most important one is 5) - Apply first coat and wait five minutes, second coat and normally 1 minute only.

This. Many a swear word and inner tube thrown away by treating it like normal glue.

Yes......2 coats of solution, allow both coats to fully dry, before you peel the foil off the patch.
.........but it still won't stick if you don't prepare the tube thoroughly.....remove all the moulded lines, all the shine, all the waxy mould release agent (or whatever it is)
No need to hammer patches, or grip them in the vise.....as soon as the fresh patch hits the dry solution, its there for ever.

[gxaustin]

I've always had 100% success with the sorts of patches which taper at the edges. The tube needs to be diligently sanded till all moulding marks are gone. Two coats of rubber solution are needed as others have described.

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
If you done enough of them.
What 531colin says.

I find hole, water bath / your cheek / ears, etc.

I find it useful to mark around hole with a poundland tipex pen, if at home, just mark four points of compass twice the size of patch say, hole in centre, easy to find it if you like me do batches.

Any abrasive stuff will do, an area large enough for patch, gently blow off dust, don't normally use meths, but can if you want?

Find patch, apply glue, give it at least five minutes.

Start to peel patch Foil, so you don't waste time when you apply patch.

Apply glue.................one minute approx. at room temp, (I don't repair on the job normally, just take tubes) patch only needs thumb pressure, and roll thumb on something firm.

Dust the area.

Keep the tube inflated to about80 - 100 % of final size, all through.

If you do them in batches its quick and easy at home.

I have been using cheap patches, its just the foil to remove first not the plastic cover.................

[gloomyandy]

One thing I've never worked out is what that plastic cover is for and should it be removed (I always do as otherwise it just looks untidy!). Must admit I don't try and sand down all of the seams but so far I've never had any issue...
* Find the hole and mark it.
* Sand around it
* Apply the rubber solution
* Let it dry
* Peel off the patch
* Apply and press into place
* Dust with chalk
All done...

Has worked time after time for me over the years.