Quick advice for removing bottom bracket pls - [Sorted]

[NoIdea]

The bike is as in my signature,

I have removed the crank arms, and the left hand side threaded ring (which was plastic).
The right hand side one (the actual bottom bracket) is very tight.

I'm going to try boiling water on the frame to help release it but which way should I be turning it?
As far as I'm aware it's the original Shimano item in there.

[gaz]

If it's a square taper BB follow these instructions: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... ridge-type

[cycleruk]

The drive side (chainset side) is a left hand thread. To undo turn clockwise. That is when looking from the right side directly at the chainset.
The non-drive side is right hand so undoes normally.

[Gattonero]

As above, but you need to remove the cranks first, if this has not been done already.

According to a picture of the 2006 model, it ought to be a square taper crankset and bb


To remove the cranks it needs the 8mm allen bolt removed from each crank, then I would advise to inspect and if needs to clean the fine thread for the crank extractor. The latter, needs to go by hand or very light force, it is VITAL that is not cross-threaded so try to screw it only one turn and spin the cranks: the extractor has to spin pretty straight altogether, if not remove and screw it right.
Unless the cranks are badly corroded, once the central peg of the tool is in contact, it only needs 1/2 turn of the extractor to break the seal and release the cranks. At this point, the tool is easy to turn to completely remove the cranks.

Then proceed as above.

[gaz]

Both BB cups unscrew counter-clockwise.

Realised I'd got that wrong almost as soon as I posted it and edited out.

[NoIdea]

Wow - that was a superfast response!

Gattonero - Yes, cranks are off already. The bikes' previous owner was here at the weekend armed with a selection of quality tools for the job.

gaz - Yes, square taper is what it is.

The bottom bracket is ok still, so is not being replaced at this time. I'm just corrosion busting at the moment.

[alexnharvey]

A means of applying pressure to the splined removal tool is very helpful. I have used a quick clamp or g clamp to hold it in place in the past, and then turning the tool with a large adjustable spanner. You can also sometimes use a longer M8 bolt to hold it in place, if the tool has a hole in it.

I normally borrow my wife's hairdryer rather than using boiling water.

[Gattonero]

Get the wheels out, keep the frame on the floor by the BB and forks, put a skewer trought the axle (or an M8x1.0 bolt) and a washer to keep the tool steady in position and give a good press with your foot while holding the bars and the saddle.
Works a treat. But note the underlined thing: the tool has to be rock solid in place! The long spanner has to be about 45º (looking at the bars, then)

[MikeF]

Get the wheels out, keep the frame on the floor by the BB and forks, put a skewer trought the axle (or an M8x1.0 bolt) and a washer to keep the tool steady in position and give a good press with your foot while holding the bars and the saddle.
Works a treat. But note the underlined thing: the tool has to be rock solid in place! The long spanner has to be about 45º (looking at the bars, then)

Just to emphasise what you say; this is a fine thread M8 and not the "normal" ones hardware shops usually sell which are M8x1.25.

[NoIdea]

Yes, we went through all of my bolts but I don't have any fine threaded M8's so gave up.

I will have a go tomorrow and see how it goes..

[drossall]

The Pedro's tool is very good for holding the BB tool in place.

[Brucey]

if the BB spindle is through-drilled, you can (as per upthread) use a hub quick release (and a big washer) to hold the BB tool in place.

If the BB spindle is not through-drilled, you need a suitable M8 x 1.0 bolt. These are used in a few obscure places but are not a common size at all. If you have access to a welding set you can weld a spare (cut down) crank bolt to a length of M8 x 1.25 studding, and this will spare you the cost of the Pedro's tool.

BTW the shimano BB tool is shallower than most, so a standard crank bolt and a washer is all that you need in most cases.

cheers

[NATURAL ANKLING]

Hi,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-x-1-Metric ... Y1eWFLk_Xg

[Gattonero]

Get the wheels out, keep the frame on the floor by the BB and forks, put a skewer trought the axle (or an M8x1.0 bolt) and a washer to keep the tool steady in position and give a good press with your foot while holding the bars and the saddle.
Works a treat. But note the underlined thing: the tool has to be rock solid in place! The long spanner has to be about 45º (looking at the bars, then)

Just to emphasise what you say; this is a fine thread M8 and not the "normal" ones hardware shops usually sell which are M8x1.25.

Yes but that's the only alternative when the BB axle is not drilled trough.
To not do that, means the extractor is free to rock and twist, thus damaging the splines and is likely to make a 1 minute job becoming something that may take hours and involve much more complex equipment. Very often this is not understood, I used to hear (before mini-drivers took over) those kids with Bmx that could not remove their freewheels, because they won't get it to keep the extractor steady by using the wheel nut!

Above someone linked an easy way to obtain such bolt. And is one of those things that always helps in a toolbox.

[NoIdea]

Still haven't got it out yet...

Have tried with a hair dryer and having 2 of us doing the job (steadying the bike and using a long extension socket bar), all that happened was the tool popped out of the splines and let off a spark!

Will be ordering the M8 fine thread bolt next so the tool can be fixed in.

Was thinking about then getting this to a tyre place so they can use a air rattle gun on it - it that a wise idea or just likely to cause damage?