Best chain tugs?

[mjr]

I've currently got some that are very like https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chains/pair ... rack-ends/ but mine have been abused by incorrect fitting in the past viewtopic.php?p=941620#p941620 so they're pretty bashed up and annoying to refit.

I'm also unconvinced about having the top/bottom ends folded up because it seems like a way to trap extra crud in a hard-to-clean spot, so I'm inclined to go for some with a simple U section bracket across the fork ends, but before I go through the hassle of replacing them, I thought I'd ask if there's anything you think's clearly better? I think I need so-called low-profile ones to keep out of the way of the non-turn washers.

Ones that don't need spanner clearance or a deep socket to adjust would be good (the rear rack gets in the way of a spanner) but I'm not sure how you'd achieve that with track ends. Ones that can be reset to the same depth easily would be better. I'm not convinced by the BMX-style ones where screw threads directly press on the ends, or by a certain famous brand selling tugs with loctite already on the threads.

[Ugly]

I've been riding fixed for more than 50 years and have never felt the need for chain tugs, and that includes tandem racing. I have them on my two vintage Sunbeams, both on free wheel, they do make tensioning the chain a bit easier but are one more thing getting in the way when removing thr rear wheel.

[Brucey]

presumably if you are talking no-turn washers you are running an IGH. If so might be worth saying which one, and perhaps showing what your frame looks like.

cheers

[mjr]

Currently running a Sturmey Archer X-SRF3 and it looks like track ends but I'll try to get a picture tomorrow (it'll be dark before I'm by it again today).

[mjr]

I've been riding fixed for more than 50 years and have never felt the need for chain tugs, and that includes tandem racing. I have them on my two vintage Sunbeams, both on free wheel, they do make tensioning the chain a bit easier but are one more thing getting in the way when removing thr rear wheel.

I've not got them on my horizontal dropout bike but the one with track ends came with them.

[drossall]

I'm still experimenting. I rode fixed for decades on forward-facing dropouts, and didn't bother. However, I've often found the chain getting slack quite quickly, and also tugs can help to set the wheel straight when fitting it.

That said, I didn't really get on with DMR ones, and the screws on the Genetic design don't seem to have enough travel. I'm splashing out and trying the Surly Tuggnut.

[Tail End Charlie]

The Surly version is good, although the price makes your eyes smart a bit. It makes chain tensioning a piece of cake and doesn't hinder wheel removal. I'd recommend one (you only need one).

[Bez]

I've settled on a Surly Tuggnut (your "certain famous brand"?), but that's mainly because I'm running a dinglespeed, and with the Tuggnut a gear change takes a couple of turns of the thumbscrew whereas other tugs would need tools. I've used the Genetic-style ones before and they've been fine. But I've also not generally needed tugs with nutted hubs; only with QRs. Haven't used any with an IGH, though.

[mjr]

I've settled on a Surly Tuggnut (your "certain famous brand"?), but that's mainly because I'm running a dinglespeed, and with the Tuggnut a gear change takes a couple of turns of the thumbscrew whereas other tugs would need tools. I've used the Genetic-style ones before and they've been fine. But I've also not generally needed tugs with nutted hubs; only with QRs. Haven't used any with an IGH, though.

Yes, that's the brand - the presence of Loctite on their products makes me suspect they don't want to keep their adjustment and, with the Tuggnut in particular, my fingers aren't great at thumbscrews so I'd prefer something with a hex head or even an Allen head. I carry a deep 10mm hex socket to adjust my current ones and that's also useful for reaching through the wheel to release the reaction arm anyway. It would be nice to have a chain tug to hold its position during wheel removal/refit, though, which I think the Tuggnut does, doesn't it? Does the Genetic?

[Bez]

It would be nice to have a chain tug to hold its position during wheel removal/refit, though, which I think the Tuggnut does, doesn't it?

Hold position relative to what? The tug sits on the axle (or the skewer in the case of a QR) so it doesn't hold its position on the frame. But the grub screw stays put. All tugs should be the same in both respects, I'd have thought.

[mjr]

It would be nice to have a chain tug to hold its position during wheel removal/refit, though, which I think the Tuggnut does, doesn't it?

Hold position relative to what? The tug sits on the axle (or the skewer in the case of a QR) so it doesn't hold its position on the frame. But the grub screw stays put. All tugs should be the same in both respects, I'd have thought.

Relative to the axle. I have to unscrew mine a bit to get enough slack to derail the chain, but that may be because I use ⅛" which isn't as sideways-bendy and some guard clearances aren't wide enough to allow the chain to be pulled sideways hard.

[Bez]

Ah, I see. On my current setup I just undo the nut enough for the tug to be moved sideways so that the wheel can slide, so no need to adjust the tug itself. I happen to use a geared chain: easier to derail, of course, but I don't think the tug should influence that.

[Gattonero]

I'm still experimenting. I rode fixed for decades on forward-facing dropouts, and didn't bother. However, I've often found the chain getting slack quite quickly, and also tugs can help to set the wheel straight when fitting it....

Well, the added thickness of the "chain tug" may be a problem if the axle doesn't have enough threads, so that could be a reason why the hahin gets slack quick?
I have a couple of s/sp bikes and never found such a big deal in tensioning the chain.... because is pretty much the only thing a s/speed needs to be checked for
once a week, put your hand between the seat tube and the wheel and push the wheel back, that's it.
Or you can pay a tenner for a block of wood. Mind you, needs a beard and sleeve tattoos

http://spinkingclothing.bigcartel.com/p ... ack-walnut