Getting into the recumbent cycling

DIscuss anything relating to non-standard cycles and their equipment.
nigelnightmare
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Joined: 19 Sep 2016, 10:33pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by nigelnightmare »

RE Disc or Drum brakes

If you weigh the Hub,Rotor & caliper of a disc brake system and compare it to the weight of the drum brake system they work out almost equal.

Discs "can" give better braking in the dry! but will go through brake pads rapidly.
Sometimes they will need adjusting after a long/steep descent.
Also rotors wear and need renewing and they're prone to warping causing the brakes to rub making a horrible annoying noise!

Compared that to drums that give consistent braking in all conditions and last a very long, long time 50,000 miles+ , don't make any noise and are practically maintenance free And when adjusted properly don't bind.

HTH
Quicksilver89
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Joined: 11 Nov 2017, 8:44pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by Quicksilver89 »

Haven't logged on for a while as I've been busy writing up the PhD but I have a break now :)

I got some scorcher 120s and I do feel a big difference, and I'm about to get a larger chainring as I spend a lot of time spinning out in the top gear.

One thing I want to know is are the footrests on the pedal that keep the bottom of my foot in place? Something like the straps on this bike maybe

https://missioncycles.co.uk/product/mis ... id=1&pid=1

With a strap on the bottom for my foot to rest on.
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[XAP]Bob
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008, 4:12pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by [XAP]Bob »

I have some heel straps on MicroBob’s trike - but cleats are preferred if you aren’t growing through shoes like a child...
A shortcut has to be a challenge, otherwise it would just be the way. No situation is so dire that panic cannot make it worse.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
Quicksilver89
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Joined: 11 Nov 2017, 8:44pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by Quicksilver89 »

https://www.getcycling.org.uk/details.php?id=267&c=197

Something like this? Seems like it would do the trick :)
Quicksilver89
Posts: 34
Joined: 11 Nov 2017, 8:44pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by Quicksilver89 »

nigelnightmare wrote:On my QNT I use a 55/42/30 with a 32-9 rear and find I can still pedal at 35+ mph (downhill).
You need higher than normal gearing because of the small wheels.
Most cycle gearing is set up for 26"-28" (700c) wheels.
HTH

Up till a couple of weeks ago I was doing an average speed of 9-10 mph.
Now I'm up to 12-14 mph after I did a 25 mile cycle challenge two weeks ago.
Tyres are standard marathon 40-406 @ 70 psi.
Mine is fully loaded with mudguards, rear rack and pannier bags and hub dynamo lights.

The higher speed will come as your legs get used to it.


I have a Trice Q, can I get the same chainring setup on that?

I'm spinning out all the time now! lol
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[XAP]Bob
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008, 4:12pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by [XAP]Bob »

You’ll be able to...
A shortcut has to be a challenge, otherwise it would just be the way. No situation is so dire that panic cannot make it worse.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
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Tigerbiten
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Joined: 29 Jun 2009, 6:49am

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by Tigerbiten »

You need to put the chain on the small chainring and measure the gap between the chain and the bottom of the front derailleur cage.
You need 2 mm per chainring tooth increase/decrease.
IE:- If you can move the front derailleur up by just over 10mm then you can increase the big chainring by 5 teeth.
I used that trick to find I could go from the standard 48/36/26 triple to a non-standard 48/36/22 triple for an extra gear down.

Another option is to use a 50-406 Big Apple vs the 40-406 Racer for a rough 1% increase in top speed ....... :D
But if you do use a 50-406 back tyre then you need to remove the spacer from the front of the back mudguard where it meets the frame to give you a little more clearance.
nigelnightmare
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Joined: 19 Sep 2016, 10:33pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by nigelnightmare »

Quicksilver89 wrote:
nigelnightmare wrote:On my QNT I use a 55/42/30 with a 32-9 rear and find I can still pedal at 35+ mph (downhill).
You need higher than normal gearing because of the small wheels.
Most cycle gearing is set up for 26"-28" (700c) wheels.
HTH

Up till a couple of weeks ago I was doing an average speed of 9-10 mph.
Now I'm up to 12-14 mph after I did a 25 mile cycle challenge two weeks ago.
Tyres are standard marathon 40-406 @ 70 psi.
Mine is fully loaded with mudguards, rear rack and pannier bags and hub dynamo lights.

The higher speed will come as your legs get used to it.


I have a Trice Q, can I get the same chainring setup on that?

I'm spinning out all the time now! lol


You can BUT it's expensive! as you'll need a Capreo hub ££! (or complete wheel) ?££ and custom capreo cassette ££! and special tool for fitting/removing the cassette.
All available from ICE.

The 55 tooth chainring "was" an option from ICE, but also commonly available.

If you decide to build your own wheel remember it is NOT dished like a regular rear wheel.
Meaning you only need one length of spokes and even tension on both drive & non drive sides.

HTH
hercule
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Joined: 5 Feb 2011, 5:18pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by hercule »

Or alternatively use a hybrid hub gear/derailleur hub like the SRAM Dual Drive (now out of production but might be available still on eBay etc) or the Sturmey Archer CS hubs for 3 times the gears with extra high and low ranges. I’ve fitted the S.A. CS-RF3 hub to mine to get a huge gear range. A bit noisy and heavy but it gets the job done - I can pedal up the steepest roads and pedal at 35mph+ down the other side.


I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my wobbly bog brush using hovercraft full of eels
Quicksilver89
Posts: 34
Joined: 11 Nov 2017, 8:44pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by Quicksilver89 »

Hello

Been cycling a bit more in the last few weeks and starting to understand what I am capable of and my trike in general. I did a strava ride today and it went reasonably well. Here it is for those who want to take a look at it:

https://www.strava.com/activities/1764781453

Average speed of 17.2km/h which is a bit on the slow side however:

- On the journey to and back from Beaulieu, I tired towards the end, so I slowed down a fair bit but I feel fine.
- It was quite a breezy day, especially in the flat open fields of the New Forest, quite challenging in the headwind!
- The weather wasn't amazing with some light rain at times
- The average speed is about 5km/h slower then my low to the ground Top End Force R handbike.

Some sections times were not too bad at all though. I purchased a Shimano Tiagra 52-36 crankset in the end for a cheap price. A very nice piece of kit though there is still a tendancy to spin out on some flats and downhills. Maybe I'm just not used to the high cadence that much yet, I did grind a fair bit on the handcycle.

Overall though as I said not bad, I get the impression I need to build myself up a bit more for the longer rides. I particularly felt it on the back of my thighs, lower back and a little bit on the knees, my muscles got a fair workout.

Any further advice for me on here? Two things I was wondering about:

- Is there any other way I can get more out of the bike setup wise? I was thinking of maybe changing the setup of the back derailleur. Smaller teeth would probably prevent spinning out though the 52T front chainring has helped a bit.
- Also would a lower seating angle help? It may also explain why my lower back felt it a fair bit when I was tiring? If I adjust the seat though it doesn't stay in place.

Thanks again! I do like the leg cycling and I've got a lot of building up to do I can imagine, but progress has been made.
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[XAP]Bob
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Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by [XAP]Bob »

Keep turning the pedals... that’s the best thing to do...

The next most significant thing is probably tyre pressures and choice
A shortcut has to be a challenge, otherwise it would just be the way. No situation is so dire that panic cannot make it worse.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
Quicksilver89
Posts: 34
Joined: 11 Nov 2017, 8:44pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by Quicksilver89 »

[XAP]Bob wrote:Keep turning the pedals... that’s the best thing to do...

The next most significant thing is probably tyre pressures and choice


Haha I will keep turning the pedals no doubt :mrgreen:

I got some green speeds a while back and they do help, I have noticed a difference with them.

The final thing I was thinking was buying this casette:

https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano-cap ... e-EV172335

Hopefully that will erase my spinning out problems once and for all haha, but will it work on my trike?
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[XAP]Bob
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008, 4:12pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by [XAP]Bob »

If you have a capreo hub then you’ll already be down to 9 teeth, so it shouldn’t make andifference
A shortcut has to be a challenge, otherwise it would just be the way. No situation is so dire that panic cannot make it worse.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
Quicksilver89
Posts: 34
Joined: 11 Nov 2017, 8:44pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by Quicksilver89 »

[XAP]Bob wrote:If you have a capreo hub then you’ll already be down to 9 teeth, so it shouldn’t make andifference


No Capreo Hub at the moment, my current cassette is 11-32, so a new cassette would be one of the final cheaper options for changing the bike and then I'll stick with what I've got :)
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[XAP]Bob
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008, 4:12pm

Re: Getting into the recumbent cycling

Post by [XAP]Bob »

You’ll need a new hub as well then - The capreo won’t fit on a normal hub. Sorry to bear bad news...
A shortcut has to be a challenge, otherwise it would just be the way. No situation is so dire that panic cannot make it worse.
There are two kinds of people in this world: those can extrapolate from incomplete data.
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