1978 Raleigh Superbe-Front fork drop out contruction

[cyrusjohn]

Can someone tell me how the dropouts are attached to the lower end of the forks on a 1978 Raleigh Superbe, or many other older bikes of this style?
It appears that they are pressed into a slot in the fork tube, not brazed or soldered.

I took my bike to a shop to have the forks aligned and the twisting force applied to the tool has widened the slot that the drop out fits into and is loose now on the left fork.



Thanks

Cyrus

[AndyA]

A photo would be really helpful.

They are supposed to be brazed into that slot. It's likely insufficient brass was added. Underfilled joints are very common on 70s and 80s production frames especially Dawes. It's worth scraping the paint away from the border/crevice between the fork leg and dropout - if there are large sections with no brass then you've got a problem...

[AndyA]

I read your post again, the dropout is loose in the fork leg?!?!

[Brucey]

yup. If it is loose it needs to be brazed again.

cheers

[cyrusjohn]

Thanks for the advice. I will extract the drop out first and close the slot back up and press it in so that there is a .005" interference fit and and try a metal bonder. If that doesn't work, extract it, clean it and braze, then refinish.

[peetee]

A photo would be really helpful.

They are supposed to be brazed into that slot. It's likely insufficient brass was added. Underfilled joints are very common on 70s and 80s production frames especially Dawes.

I have always been a staunch supporter of British brands but I will not buy Dawes on principal. Back in the 80's my brother had a Dawes Imperial, their top race bike. He rode it for a week then noticed an issue with the front brake. One of the fork blades was held in the crown with a tight fit and the chrome plate, nothing else. They did send a new fork but no apology or offer to fit it, or other gesture to acknowledge the seriousness of such an error.

[Brucey]

Thanks for the advice. I will extract the drop out first and close the slot back up and press it in so that there is a .005" interference fit and and try a metal bonder. If that doesn't work, extract it, clean it and braze, then refinish.

the joint area/loading is not enough to be glued. Any such joint will still be 'death trap' status.

The joint needs to be brazed or welded, and putting glue in the joint just makes that needlessly difficult to do.

cheers