Frame ding - should I be concerned?

[PH]

but IMO chips and scrapes are unavoidable; as long as you're protecting the frame and the touch-ups aren't too visible I'm fairly relaxed...

I've just remembered someone who paints stars and circles over their paint damage, an idea I might copy if i can find/make some stencils.

[Brucey]

a Brucey top-tip; if you can't be bothered to clean brushes etc when touching up using an enamel paint, you can use the end of a matchstick or a cocktail stick to apply the paint instead.

When it gets too bad, why not get a suitable sticker made up. For example

The scars on this bike are its best attire; only gained by riding through hellfire.

cheers

[Sweep]

but IMO chips and scrapes are unavoidable; as long as you're protecting the frame and the touch-ups aren't too visible I'm fairly relaxed...

I've just remembered someone who paints stars and circles over their paint damage, an idea I might copy if i can find/make some stencils.

Interesting - In addition to the ding I managed to produce a long chain of scratches, so we are talking a constellation.

[Sweep]

a Brucey top-tip; if you can't be bothered to clean brushes etc when touching up using an enamel paint, you can use the end of a matchstick or a cocktail stick to apply the paint instead.

Was in Macdonalds yesterday - picked up a few of their wooden coffee stirrers.

[Sweep]

Your link is to a water based acrylic and Jackob's was to a solvent based enamel, you might need a paint expert to confirm but I'd have thought the enamel would be tougher and better suited to outdoor use. Preparation - very light sanding, try and smooth the edges of the existing paint, several thin coats rather than a thick one, a thin primer if you like though I'd probably not bother. You haven't really got much to lose, if six months down the line it's looking like it isn't going to stay on, you can always rub it off and start again.

Only just noticed this post of yours. Yes, you are right. The info for the acrylic does say it can be used on metal.

Hobbycraft were out of the enamel Brunswick Green when I popped into one of their stores, blank space where it should have been (and in fact their web site now doesn't show enamel at all) - I picked up the acrylic but will get some of the Brunswick Green enamel as well to compare.

Plenty of places to practice on the bike - modern paint jobs are so delicate that even locking bikes with them through the rear triangle is pretty much certain to produce scrapes.

Thanks PH for pointing this out and all for your advice and reassurance.

[Sweep]

Update.

I sourced the British Racing Green as recommended by Jacob.

Used a small brush which I am afraid I didn't clean so gone hard - must get some thinners or whatever.

The British Racing Green enamel , though very probably the right colour, didn't seem to have much covering power so the many many white marks are visible through it.

I also managed to paint it somewhat roughly so the surface is far from smooth.

No problems though, I have covered/protected the metal and am now easy about the frame disfigurement - badges of pride etc.

My frame prep consisted of wiping an Aldi paint/grease wipe over the area, then wiping this off with a wet cloth and drying. Paint seemed to stick fine.

Am wondering whether I could maybe in future use the acrylic I obtained directly on the frame and then put the enamel on top.

Any views on whether this would work chemically?

May set to work experimenting on the rear triangle - multiple small unavoidable scratches/paint removal there from locking with a D lock. Have thought of then putting suitably coloured duct tape in that area but probably a bad idea - could in time peel off and end up in the wheel.

Thanks everyone, more advice on the issue welcome.

[simonhill]

When I wanted to put a small bit of anti rust paint on my old van, I bought whole bundle of cheap artist type bushes probably about a quid.

I used one and then threw it away. Cheaper than getting stuff to clean brushes.

I don't like disposable stuff, but that's what the brush cleaning stuff would have been anyway.

[Sweep]

When I wanted to put a small bit of anti rust paint on my old van, I bought whole bundle of cheap artist type bushes probably about a quid..

Bundle - how many? - where did you get them simon?

I got a small pack of model brushes from the same place as the paint.

Re my other thread it appears that distilled clear malt vinegar may clean paint brushes.

[simonhill]

There were plenty in the bundle, 10 or so. Can't remember where I bought them. Probably before pound shops, but that's the sort of place to look. In the kids toys, maybe.

[Brucey]

for small areas, applying paint using the end of a matchstick seems to work quite well.

To protect the frame from minor scuffs, a few turns of insulating tape works as well as anything. It may come unravelled in time if the stickiness isn't quite good enough; if this is a nuisance then a short length of a stickier tape can be used to secure the end of the wrap. Of course it can vary, but IME insulating tape comes off fairly easily when required and doesn't normally discolour the paint beneath or leave an impossible residue.

cheers

[Sweep]

for small areas, applying paint using the end of a matchstick seems to work quite well.

To protect the frame from minor scuffs, a few turns of insulating tape works as well as anything. It may come unravelled in time if the stickiness isn't quite good enough; if this is a nuisance then a short length of a stickier tape can be used to secure the end of the wrap. Of course it can vary, but IME insulating tape comes off fairly easily when required and doesn't normally discolour the paint beneath or leave an impossible residue.

cheers

Duct tape handy as well, and now, particularly gorilla tape, available in diferent colours and patterns. That same expedition frame of mine has a fair few bits of camoflauge duct tape on the headtube where frame rub will inevitably be caused by the cables.

Have decided that frame marks, as long as protected from rust, don't bother me on a tourer. Next few months will be building up a really scratched 90s black Ridgeback (none of scratches to the metal though such is the quality of the paintjobs on those old frames) that cost me £21 for the frame. It's there to do a job/provide experiences, and if it deters thieves all the better.

[JakobW]

Update.

I sourced the British Racing Green as recommended by Jacob.

Used a small brush which I am afraid I didn't clean so gone hard - must get some thinners or whatever.

The British Racing Green enamel , though very probably the right colour, didn't seem to have much covering power so the many many white marks are visible through it.

I also managed to paint it somewhat roughly so the surface is far from smooth.

For bigger/deeper dings and scratches I tend to do two coats to try and minimise the white marks. For a smooth surface I suspect you'd want to both do multiple coats and sand back the paint in between, but then life's too short...

For brush cleaning I used the Humbrol thinners I had in my modelling gear, but white spirits should work fine on enamels.

[Sweep]

[. For a smooth surface I suspect you'd want to both do multiple coats and sand back the paint in between, but then life's too short...

.

tend to agree jakob - and this bike will have (if I am lucky) a rough and tumble life.

Thanks again for your help.