Orbea road bike - rear wheel removal
Orbea road bike - rear wheel removal
What additional wires etc are attached to the back wheel and do they make removing the wheel for a roadside puncture repair more complicated?
Re: Orbea road bike - rear wheel removal
NOT a definitive answer:
Probably one additional cable to the rear wheel, making it a bit more complicated but not too bad.
Cable likely to have a connector that is quite stiff to disconnect as it needs to be waterproof.
Gaadi inner tubes could help. https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/inner-tubes-double-ended/
I haven't tried one yet (the one I bought was fatter than I intended and I haven't got round to buying another)
Probably one additional cable to the rear wheel, making it a bit more complicated but not too bad.
Cable likely to have a connector that is quite stiff to disconnect as it needs to be waterproof.
Gaadi inner tubes could help. https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/inner-tubes-double-ended/
I haven't tried one yet (the one I bought was fatter than I intended and I haven't got round to buying another)
Re: Orbea road bike - rear wheel removal
Rear hub motor has one multicable wire usually a 8 or 9 pin Julet connector along the rear horizontal frame stay, the connector is simply pulled apart though can be tight. Refitting is easy though you need to line up the adjacent arrows marked for correct connection and pushing the connector fully together up to a marked raised line on said motor side of connector.
On my rear hub Boardman 700c I use a Gaadi to save removng the wheel, only one puncture to date and this was a small nail.
On my rear hub Boardman 700c I use a Gaadi to save removng the wheel, only one puncture to date and this was a small nail.
Re: Orbea road bike - rear wheel removal
I have a Gain and have had the rear wheel out to change the tyres from the OEMs to Marathons.
As mentioned there is a simple plug connector to undo (you may need to take it out of the clips that hold the cable to the frame) - tight fit to keep it waterproof, marks to line up for pin connections. Wheel itself has to be replaced in the dropouts with the axle in a specific position (can't quite remember but it may have "flats" on it to ensure correct location)
Pretty simple job - I know it's "un-professional" but it's easier with the bike uspside down rather than in a workstand!
... and I looked at those straight inner tubes but they only seem to come in fat sizes .... not suitable for the 28mm tyres on my machine. That said the effort to take off the tyre and replace in situ outweighs the simplicity of the process with the wheel taken out.
Rob
As mentioned there is a simple plug connector to undo (you may need to take it out of the clips that hold the cable to the frame) - tight fit to keep it waterproof, marks to line up for pin connections. Wheel itself has to be replaced in the dropouts with the axle in a specific position (can't quite remember but it may have "flats" on it to ensure correct location)
Pretty simple job - I know it's "un-professional" but it's easier with the bike uspside down rather than in a workstand!
... and I looked at those straight inner tubes but they only seem to come in fat sizes .... not suitable for the 28mm tyres on my machine. That said the effort to take off the tyre and replace in situ outweighs the simplicity of the process with the wheel taken out.
Rob
E2E http://www.cycle-endtoend.org.uk
HoECC http://www.heartofenglandcyclingclub.org.uk
Cytech accredited mechanic . . . and woodworker
HoECC http://www.heartofenglandcyclingclub.org.uk
Cytech accredited mechanic . . . and woodworker