Pannier rack failures
Pannier rack failures
I had a strut on my rear pannier rack split at the weld whilst on my recent tour - the pic shows the road repair... no harm done, but made me think. One, I need to make sure I get a new pannier which is rated to carry a load far more than I actually carry. Two - that weight bears down on two screws attaching the pannier rack to the bike. It seems like a good idea to change these screws every year or two to forestall metal fatigue. Also, are there any particularly strong screws to get for this job?
I know it wasn't the screws that failed this time, but it just made me aware of a possible weak point.
Cheers!
I know it wasn't the screws that failed this time, but it just made me aware of a possible weak point.
Cheers!
Last edited by Slowroad on 16 Sep 2019, 6:03pm, edited 1 time in total.
“My two favourite things in life are libraries and bicycles. They both move people forward without wasting anything. The perfect day: riding a bike to the library.”
― Peter Golkin
― Peter Golkin
Re: Pannier rack failures
Rack replacement =Tubus.
I think you're safe with stainless steel bolts,but I beleive steel screws are stronger.
I think you're safe with stainless steel bolts,but I beleive steel screws are stronger.
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"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
"All we are not stares back at what we are"
W H Auden
Re: Pannier rack failures
As a matter of interest, what make and model of rack was it? Is it Al alloy?
Re: Pannier rack failures
Kind of related
Have often wondered.
If there's room, (ie no interference with gears on the inside) is it advisable to use a bolt that goes all the way through the bike frame mount, out the other side, and stick a nut on the end?
ie - does this distribute the forces better?
I assume that even if there isn't room on the inside it's advisable to use the longest bolt possible?
For heavy touring use I'd always use a tubus.
I understand that certain designs of rack "feet" are best avoided, but will leave enlightenment on this issue to the more engineering qualified.
Am also interested in slowroad's question about whether it's a good idea to swap bolts out.
Have often wondered.
If there's room, (ie no interference with gears on the inside) is it advisable to use a bolt that goes all the way through the bike frame mount, out the other side, and stick a nut on the end?
ie - does this distribute the forces better?
I assume that even if there isn't room on the inside it's advisable to use the longest bolt possible?
For heavy touring use I'd always use a tubus.
I understand that certain designs of rack "feet" are best avoided, but will leave enlightenment on this issue to the more engineering qualified.
Am also interested in slowroad's question about whether it's a good idea to swap bolts out.
Sweep
Re: Pannier rack failures
looking at the pic it was a 10kg mwl rack no doubt loaded with 20kg or more!
I have had standard steel bolts break in the past so my default these days is Ti but if I can't find them (the racks aren't always fitted and get moved between bikes) stainless do the job. Never had the need to swap any out but there again my fully loaded riding is no more than 10% of my riding and my fully loaded is under 20kg on a 35kg rated Ti or 45kg rated steel Tubus rack.
I have had standard steel bolts break in the past so my default these days is Ti but if I can't find them (the racks aren't always fitted and get moved between bikes) stainless do the job. Never had the need to swap any out but there again my fully loaded riding is no more than 10% of my riding and my fully loaded is under 20kg on a 35kg rated Ti or 45kg rated steel Tubus rack.
Convention? what's that then?
Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Airnimal Chameleon touring, Orbit Pro hack, Orbit Photon audax, Focus Mares AX tour, Peugeot Carbon sportive, Owen Blower vintage race - all running Tulio's finest!
Re: Pannier rack failures
I have wondered about using some plastic ties around some of the welds so stop any cracks developing due to strut flexing?
Re: Pannier rack failures
foxyrider wrote:looking at the pic it was a 10kg mwl rack no doubt loaded with 20kg or more!
I have had standard steel bolts break in the past so my default these days is Ti but if I can't find them (the racks aren't always fitted and get moved between bikes) stainless do the job. Never had the need to swap any out but there again my fully loaded riding is no more than 10% of my riding and my fully loaded is under 20kg on a 35kg rated Ti or 45kg rated steel Tubus rack.
Stop messing about with those pansy racks (as in they're good for carrying some flowers) and get a thick-as-your-stays axle-mounted 75kg rated steel rack with a passenger seat cushion
MJR, mostly pedalling 3-speed roadsters. KL+West Norfolk BUG incl social easy rides http://www.klwnbug.co.uk
All the above is CC-By-SA and no other implied copyright license to Cycle magazine.
All the above is CC-By-SA and no other implied copyright license to Cycle magazine.
Re: Pannier rack failures
reohn2 wrote:Rack replacement =Tubus.....
+1
Ian
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Re: Pannier rack failures
hi,
When I mount racks I always bend the legs carefully where they meet the frame.
There should be no springing of the legs when you put the rack on the frame.
Where the mounting holes are make sure the face of the rack fits nice and flat on the frame lug.
Despite not liking stainless screws much for stressed points, I found using stainless ones here perfectly okay assuming that you have done the above correctly.
On the plus side the stainless bolts will never seize in a steel or aluminium frame.
Don't forget the rack top mount strips, everything should be perfectly flat and not stressed when you bolt it up
When I mount racks I always bend the legs carefully where they meet the frame.
There should be no springing of the legs when you put the rack on the frame.
Where the mounting holes are make sure the face of the rack fits nice and flat on the frame lug.
Despite not liking stainless screws much for stressed points, I found using stainless ones here perfectly okay assuming that you have done the above correctly.
On the plus side the stainless bolts will never seize in a steel or aluminium frame.
Don't forget the rack top mount strips, everything should be perfectly flat and not stressed when you bolt it up
NA Thinks Just End 2 End Return + Bivvy - Some day Soon I hope
You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill
Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
You'll Still Find Me At The Top Of A Hill
Please forgive the poor Grammar I blame it on my mobile and phat thinkers.
Re: Pannier rack failures
Slowroad wrote:I had a strut on my rear pannier split at the weld whilst on my recent tour - the pic shows the road repair... no harm done, but made me think. One, I need to make sure I get a new pannier which is rated to carry a load far more than I actually carry. Two - that weight bears down on two screws attaching the pannier rack to the bike. It seems like a good idea to change these screws every year or two to forestall metal fatigue. Also, are there any particularly strong screws to get for this job?
I know it wasn't the screws that failed this time, but it just made me aware of a possible weak point.
Cheers!
DSC08615.JPG
Hi Just for clarity, could you add "rack" to "pannier" in your post? I presume you are talking about your rack, but you say pannier. Thank you.
When the pestilence strikes from the East, go far and breathe the cold air deeply. Ignore the sage, stay not indoors. Ho Ri Zon 12th Century Chinese philosopher
Re: Pannier rack failures
Slowroad wrote: weight bears down on two screws attaching the pannier rack to the bike. It seems like a good idea to change these screws every year or two to forestall metal fatigue. Also, are there any particularly strong screws to get for this job?
The Spa tourer hads larger screws for this job:
6mm threads in
the bottom rear carrier eyes. They’re
much less prone to loosen and strip
under the weight of a touring load. The
usual 5mm are adequate for the upper
fixings and lighter front panniers.
When the pestilence strikes from the East, go far and breathe the cold air deeply. Ignore the sage, stay not indoors. Ho Ri Zon 12th Century Chinese philosopher
Re: Pannier rack failures
I don't see any evidence that the rack was only rated for 10kg, or that it was rated for more. Nor what sort of load it was actually carrying at the time (or in the past). Perhaps Slowroad could inform us, so we don't get led astray by random guesses from others?
Re: Pannier rack failures
Thanks all, very useful. I'll definitely look at Tubus. And the comments re screws are very useful.
It's a Blackburn MTN rack, came with the bike second-hand - some mixed opinions here http://www.bikepacking.net/reviews/rack ... mtn1-rack/
My luggage weighs around 15kilos, comprised of two panniers and a tent. Do bear in mind that it's a very small frame with 26" wheels so the panniers look bigger than they are!
It's a Blackburn MTN rack, came with the bike second-hand - some mixed opinions here http://www.bikepacking.net/reviews/rack ... mtn1-rack/
My luggage weighs around 15kilos, comprised of two panniers and a tent. Do bear in mind that it's a very small frame with 26" wheels so the panniers look bigger than they are!
“My two favourite things in life are libraries and bicycles. They both move people forward without wasting anything. The perfect day: riding a bike to the library.”
― Peter Golkin
― Peter Golkin
Re: Pannier rack failures
just get it re welded? Why the expense of a new Tubus rack? Things do break?
Re: Pannier rack failures
just get it re welded? Why the expense of a new Tubus rack? Things do break?
I'd quite like a different design anyway, it has got slightly bent, and I'm not sure how cost-effective aluminium welding would be?
“My two favourite things in life are libraries and bicycles. They both move people forward without wasting anything. The perfect day: riding a bike to the library.”
― Peter Golkin
― Peter Golkin