best conversion kit

[simon@3dart]

this show the forks enough to get an idea ? looks like the dropouts are around 4 or 5mm thick.

[stodd]

Assuming they are steel not aluminium (and it looks as if they are) those forks look pretty good for a front kit.

[simon@3dart]

they're 'chromoly' which i've read is stronger than steel.

[stodd]

they're 'chromoly' which i've read is stronger than steel.

Yes. Actually I think it is technically still steel, just a high grade steel (but probably not as high as 531 etc)

[willcee]

Just watch out for front wheel slippage /spin on these darker damp leafy strewn roads and greasy asphalt.. and torque steer... will

[Polisman]

I just fitted a B a fa emits mid drive 350W system. Took me less than 3hrs start to finish, and I'm very pleased with result. A lot of torque from these Bafang units, and some people reporting 25,000 miles of usage with absolutely zero problems. About 30% more expensive than a rear wheel kit, but what a difference!

[rotavator]

I mainly want a motor to help me get up steep, say over 14%, hills so would a torque sensor kit be better or worse than a pedal sensor kit? Also some bloggers recommend a 48V motor for more torque on hills so can anyone recommend a legal 48V front wheel motor please.

[hemo]

48v does have advantage over 36v apart from the legal aspect of 33% more speed if de activated, the main advantage is torque +33%.
For hill climbing a hub or mid drive kit will both work, but for steep long hills a mid drive may be better. Only one kit I know of with Torque drive and that is tdzs.
A front wheel drive hub kit will suffer from grip issues /wheel spinning for 14% climbs, I haven't seen any 48v legal front kits.

Torque drive (PAS) system is good if you can maintain the stamina/leg power to keep it driving up inclines, they use a torque multiplier to give the power so it is dependant on the riders ability to keep pedal pressure up. A typical cadence drive (PAS) system simply relies on a low or gentle pedalling to give power, ghost pedalling simply engages power.

My 250w 36v Bafang hub motor climbs Ditchling Beacon without issue but every ones idea of a hill is different.

[Polisman]

Any advice fitting a Bafang mid drive to a lightweight aluminium road frame (threaded bracket, Oversized tubes,700c geared). I'm aiming to get an overall bike weight off 12.5-13kg.

[hemo]

Only two BBS are legally marked the 250w/15a model and the 250w etm version.
The BB needs to be a std one, 34mm int dia and less then 73mm wide.
Some over weld or snibs may need removing in the BB shell to aid fitting.
If you have gear/brake guides underneath the BB then you need to relocate the cable runs.

I find the BBS quite poor reliability wise with two controllers going and only 3500 miles use, hubs are much more user friendly and reliable.

[willcee]

polisman.. hi . having now built about 10 of these I would ime reckon you are being optimistic on your overall weight.. what you will find is that your wheels need more strength, stronger wider tyres, more frame strength, your spokes tight, .. like you I had this goal weight wise back when I started, with hindsight a more realistic weight is around 38/40lbs and that depends on your choice of finishing kit, eg saddle weight, and the power of the battery.. will

[Polisman]

polisman.. hi . having now built about 10 of these I would ime reckon you are being optimistic on your overall weight.. what you will find is that your wheels need more strength, stronger wider tyres, more frame strength, your spokes tight, .. like you I had this goal weight wise back when I started, with hindsight a more realistic weight is around 38/40lbs and that depends on your choice of finishing kit, eg saddle weight, and the power of the battery.. will

Hi Will, I'm starting off with a Cannondale Caad 10,which when previously built was 6.2kg. Its a very tough frameset, for aluminium. That was with standard 32h wheels. I reckon fitting 28mm tyres is my limit, how many kg extra do you reckon for the Bafang and the battery (probably going 48V,350w and 17ah battery)

[willcee]

I haven't weighed any that I built recently, 6.2 kg thats a light weight for an alloy full machine, less than 14lbs.... i won't argue but the lightest bike ever in my w'shop was around the same.. and it was over 10k in money.... weight its not really an issue except when i lift/slide it into my estate car.. but my best recollection is 9 lbs for the motor and around the same for the battery so 20lbs give or take with all wiring levers etc etc..I have a centre fit caged battery exactly 17.5 amp ready to fit to my last build this week, I will weigh it tonite.. I still work in lbs.. Means more to me if that makes sense.. bit like her dad back in the day, he converted everything from decimal currency in the supermarket to LSD and then told her out of his head what was in the trolley at checkout time and never could get over what a Frys Chocolate cream cost in the new money!!! or his favourite fags!!!!
Battery weight is 8.5 lbs including base plate.... will

[Bonefishblues]

Any images of these mid conversions?

[willcee]

Images ...yes... try here, some of mine..viewtopic.php?f=55&t=123853.... will