Front Wheel conversion
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Front Wheel conversion
Hi,
I've bought a 250W Conversion E-Kit from Cyclotricity, its got a smallish battery (36V/9Ah Bottle Battery) and has the peddle assist with LED display.
Has anyone used this kit before at all? I'm looking to commute to work which is only 6 miles each way with a couple of steep hills one each way. I'm only looking for assistance for the hills.
Regards.
Howie
I've bought a 250W Conversion E-Kit from Cyclotricity, its got a smallish battery (36V/9Ah Bottle Battery) and has the peddle assist with LED display.
Has anyone used this kit before at all? I'm looking to commute to work which is only 6 miles each way with a couple of steep hills one each way. I'm only looking for assistance for the hills.
Regards.
Howie
Re: Front Wheel conversion
9ah will be good for about 20 - 27 miles in low assist give or take.
What forks are you fitting in to ?
What forks are you fitting in to ?
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- Posts: 319
- Joined: 25 Feb 2010, 9:43pm
- Location: Originally from Lancashire but now in Lincolnshire
Re: Front Wheel conversion
hemo wrote:9ah will be good for about 20 - 27 miles in low assist give or take.
What forks are you fitting in to ?
These on-one chrome-moly forks. I can live with the short-range as the commute isn't far.
I'm not sure if the disc brake will interfere with the hub however, I've read that a 180mm disc setup would get around the problem if it does.
Regards,
Re: Front Wheel conversion
You should be ok without using torque arms though you will need to fit the supplied Anti turn washers so the tab must sit in the drop out fully.
Re: Front Wheel conversion
2 issues you might face are:
1. Motor axles are IME slightly wider (<0.5mm) than the 9.5mm dropout width, requiring a small bit of careful filing of the dropout lugs.
2. More seriously, My Thorn Audax (Mk3) forks slope inwards from the dropouts too steeply and foul the motor case (Bafang type) but were fine on the smaller Swytch motor I was going to fit anyway. The larger motor fits OK on the Spa Tourer though the clearances are tight!
I didn't try adding spacer washers which would probably solve the problem on steel forks.
I did have to change the disc rotor on my MTB with a rear wheel motor, but it's no big issue (provided you haven't lost the mount adaptors!)
1. Motor axles are IME slightly wider (<0.5mm) than the 9.5mm dropout width, requiring a small bit of careful filing of the dropout lugs.
2. More seriously, My Thorn Audax (Mk3) forks slope inwards from the dropouts too steeply and foul the motor case (Bafang type) but were fine on the smaller Swytch motor I was going to fit anyway. The larger motor fits OK on the Spa Tourer though the clearances are tight!
I didn't try adding spacer washers which would probably solve the problem on steel forks.
I did have to change the disc rotor on my MTB with a rear wheel motor, but it's no big issue (provided you haven't lost the mount adaptors!)
The weekend comes, my cycle hums
Re: Front Wheel conversion
My friend fitted a Cyclotricity front hub drive to his Raleigh. He found it difficult to control direction even after he fitted the throttle because of torque steer. He sold the kit and bought a Cube ebike with a Bosch bottom bracket drive. He did say that Cyclotricity were very helpful.
Al
Al
Reuse, recycle, thus do your bit to save the planet.... Get stuff at auctions, Dump, Charity Shops, Facebook Marketplace, Ebay, Car Boots. Choose an Old House, and a Banger ..... And cycle as often as you can......
Re: Front Wheel conversion
Comments I've seen elsewhere (mainly pedalecs forum) suggest that front hub is very awkward for steering on a road bike or similar, but not much of an issue on a more laid back Dutch style (or even hybrid) or whatever. Front hub works fine on the tandem.al_yrpal wrote:My friend fitted a Cyclotricity front hub drive to his Raleigh. He found it difficult to control direction even after he fitted the throttle because of torque steer. He sold the kit and bought a Cube ebike with a Bosch bottom bracket drive. He did say that Cyclotricity were very helpful.
Al
I wouldn't want a hub setup like that without brake sensors (not sure if those kits have them?)
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- Posts: 319
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Re: Front Wheel conversion
stodd wrote:Comments I've seen elsewhere (mainly pedalecs forum) suggest that front hub is very awkward for steering on a road bike or similar, but not much of an issue on a more laid back Dutch style (or even hybrid) or whatever. Front hub works fine on the tandem.al_yrpal wrote:My friend fitted a Cyclotricity front hub drive to his Raleigh. He found it difficult to control direction even after he fitted the throttle because of torque steer. He sold the kit and bought a Cube ebike with a Bosch bottom bracket drive. He did say that Cyclotricity were very helpful.
Al
I wouldn't want a hub setup like that without brake sensors (not sure if those kits have them?)
Thanks for the input gents. I’m thinking that I might not use the peddle assist as I’m only really looking for the extra assistance on the occasional hills as discussed earlier. I’ve asked about the brake sensors as I have hyd brakes and have seen setups that accept a detector from the brake lever. We’ll see what the torque steer feels like.
Interesting to read the comments on the size of the hub and the likely fit in the forks.
Regards
Re: Front Wheel conversion
The hub axle will be 12mm x 10 mm, though some hubs are 14 x 10 but these tend to be the really high powered models.
Some steel drops outs are plenty deep enough but be prepared to also file the drop out seat 1.5/2mm deeper and more if you use the anti turn washers other wise you might need to consider torque arms.
I have a some Surly Road truckers and the new Bafang G370 hub I have fitted in snuggly with plenty to spare in the drop out depth.
Some steel drops outs are plenty deep enough but be prepared to also file the drop out seat 1.5/2mm deeper and more if you use the anti turn washers other wise you might need to consider torque arms.
I have a some Surly Road truckers and the new Bafang G370 hub I have fitted in snuggly with plenty to spare in the drop out depth.
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- Posts: 319
- Joined: 25 Feb 2010, 9:43pm
- Location: Originally from Lancashire but now in Lincolnshire
Re: Front Wheel conversion
hemo wrote:The hub axle will be 12mm x 10 mm, though some hubs are 14 x 10 but these tend to be the really high powered models.
Some steel drops outs are plenty deep enough but be prepared to also file the drop out seat 1.5/2mm deeper and more if you use the anti turn washers other wise you might need to consider torque arms.
I have a some Surly Road truckers and the new Bafang G370 hub I have fitted in snuggly with plenty to spare in the drop out depth.
Right plan B, I've canceled my order and gone with the Woosh front-wheel Ekit. Cyclotricity don't do the Hollowtech peddle assist or the Hyd brake cut out switch. Interestingly the battery is better with the Woosh kit as well. I've also got to wait until Aug for stock to arrive.
Re: Front Wheel conversion
The Hollowtech PAS sensor costs about £11 and can be bought separately.
The Woosh hub will still be a 12 x 10 axle.
There are a few light weight hubs for front wheels under 2.1kg Bafang G370 and Aikema have 3 or 4 different ones.
The Woosh hub will still be a 12 x 10 axle.
There are a few light weight hubs for front wheels under 2.1kg Bafang G370 and Aikema have 3 or 4 different ones.
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Re: Front Wheel conversion
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Last edited by hjd10 on 2 Jul 2020, 4:04pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Front Wheel conversion
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Last edited by hjd10 on 2 Jul 2020, 4:05pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Front Wheel conversion
hjd10 wrote:hjd10 wrote:hemo wrote:The Hollowtech PAS sensor costs about £11 and can be bought separately.
The Woosh hub will still be a 12 x 10 axle.
There are a few light weight hubs for front wheels under 2.1kg Bafang G370 and Aikema have 3 or 4 different ones.
There is a wealth of information out there. I didn't realise that there are so many different manufactures.
Is the Keyde hub any good, are they a branded version of Bafang or Aikema?
Cheers
Howie