Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

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Kahu
Posts: 74
Joined: 7 Aug 2007, 10:48am

Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by Kahu »

I've built quite a few wheels over the years, but I am no expert wheel builder, however, all of the wheels that I have built have served me well until now ....
I recently built up a 700c wheel with a NOS Sturmey Archer 3 speed steel hub ( 36 spokes 3X, Sapim spokes, plain gauge) being a symmetrical wheel I envisaged many hours of trouble free riding, how wrong I was! I have never had so many spokes break!
The breaks are always at the hub end, the flange on these hubs is very thin compared with modern hubs, do I need to get some washers so to seat them better, I've never had to resort to this before, also should I tension the spokes a little less than when building a dished rear wheel?
Your answers greatly received ....
Cyril Haearn
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Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by Cyril Haearn »

Pictures please
Washers might help
Might you have used unsuitable spokes?
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Brucey
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Joined: 4 Jan 2012, 6:25pm

Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by Brucey »

two (or even three) washers per spoke. Tension as normal.

You must of course stress-relieve the wheel properly.

IME the most durable such wheels are built on used hubshells, not new ones, because the flange edges are less abrupt.

cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kahu
Posts: 74
Joined: 7 Aug 2007, 10:48am

Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by Kahu »

Thanks Brucey, I take on board what you say about used hubs, I'm wondering if I could improve the edges of the flange holes with an old spoke and some grinding paste ... maybe ... washers on order!
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fausto99
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Location: NW Kent

Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by fausto99 »

Rebuild with washers. Use the thicker form G ones, one on the outside of the flange two on the inside.
SRV
Posts: 43
Joined: 3 Jul 2019, 2:21pm

Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by SRV »

I don't remember what washers I used.
However, in contrast to fausto99 I used one under the heads on the inside and two under the heads on the outside on a setup with no dish. The logic being that the inside heads will naturally fall nearer the flange than those on the outside (think about it). Oh, and don't forget to relace the hub following the existing wear marks on the spoke holes, so you'll already have a pre-worn radius.
It's worked for me.............................................................. so far.
Brucey
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Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by Brucey »

'so far' for me is (in one wheel build) somewhere north of 70000 miles. The 5s hub internal in question (which has about 10-20K more on it than the wheel build) has had various issues (mostly caused by water getting inside, but a broken axle as well) and whilst the rim is still in once piece it is fast becoming a sought-after retro item (which I can't easily replace should I need to), and the inner eyelets were 'quite rusty' last time I looked. So the wheel is likely to be 'retired' before too much longer.

The wheel recipe was a used steel 3s hubshell, (old lacing pattern followed), DT 'Competition' DB stainless steel spokes, with two brass 6BA washers per spoke. Much stress-relief of course.

Number of spoke breakages = Zero.

cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kahu
Posts: 74
Joined: 7 Aug 2007, 10:48am

Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by Kahu »

Thanks for your replies chaps, I now have lots of small brass washers to complete the rebuild, hopefully this will solve the problem.
rjb
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Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by rjb »

I used 3 brass washers per spoke with this build. Not had any issues since being built. Spokes were used galvanised ones.
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fausto99
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Re: Sturmey Archer Hub Spoke Snappage .....

Post by fausto99 »

I've already posted this in another thread but here it is again
Image

The washers are M2 "form G" (thickest form); two on the spokes with heads on the outside, one on the spokes with their heads on the inside. Just enough to make the spoke touch the flange immediately the bend exits the spoke hole thereby reducing hinging at the bend.

The wheel was a 40 hole 3 cross btw
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