Tyre sealer/inflaters - do any of them work?

[thirdcrank]

Problems with moulded-in valves have been discussed before with a lot of suggestions. I can't remember other suggestions but my own system is this:-

Push-on inflators can cause trouble waggling the valve, so I think it's best to tighten the locking ring while inflating, obviously minimise waggling the valve with the pump. However, if that is tight when you have a puncture, then the deflating tube may pull on the valve, tearing it away from the moulding. Therefore, I loosen the lockring after inflating. Some tubes eg Michelin have smooth sides and no lockring. Avoiding waggling is then the only option.

A flexible connector hose is good. AFAIK, you only get the screw-on type with cheapo pumps these days, but a track pump AKA floor pump is a good investment for inflating at home. Also, there are sort of mini track pumps which are intended for use on the road

By lock ring I mean the tiny knurled nut which screw down the body of the valve

(I started on this just after you posted then got distracted by childcare)

[Grandad]

'm informed that Halfords do something similar too - obviously a product with growing appeal and maybe spurred on by the eBike community for whom changing a motorised wheel is that more complicated?

I don't find disconnecting one cable beneath the chainstay adds any significant complication to removing the rear wheel and changing the innertube

[ANTONISH]

Problems with moulded-in valves have been discussed before with a lot of suggestions. I can't remember other suggestions but my own system is this:-

Push-on inflators can cause trouble waggling the valve, so I think it's best to tighten the locking ring while inflating, obviously minimise waggling the valve with the pump. However, if that is tight when you have a puncture, then the deflating tube may pull on the valve, tearing it away from the moulding. Therefore, I loosen the lockring after inflating. Some tubes eg Michelin have smooth sides and no lockring. Avoiding waggling is then the only option.

A flexible connector hose is good. AFAIK, you only get the screw-on type with cheapo pumps these days, but a track pump AKA floor pump is a good investment for inflating at home. Also, there are sort of mini track pumps which are intended for use on the road

By lock ring I mean the tiny knurled nut which screw down the body of the valve

(I started on this just after you posted then got distracted by childcare)

I never use the knurled nuts - I don't find them of any particular value.
The only time I deliberately fitted one was when I had a longer than necessary valve on a low profile rim and there was an irritating clicking noise.

[ALANWEAV]

Please find photos of valve and valve entry hole on wheel. I cannot see any sharp protuberances but have sandpapered on both sides and through hole. If I continue to have problems with flat tyres/ valve leakage I will purchase a new back wheel. Bike purchase is now out of warranty. Thanks for advice and help.
Alan

[Brucey]

is it the case that your rim is drilled for Schrader and you have a presta valve installed? If so this is an ideal recipe for endless 'problems with valves'.

The cure is either to use something to support the valve properly on the inside of the rim (several options here) or simply to us Schrader valved tubes. I don't care much for Schrader on bicycles; I've modified many rims so that they only accept presta valves.

cheers

[mjr]

is it the case that your rim is drilled for Schrader and you have a presta valve installed? If so this is an ideal recipe for endless 'problems with valves'.

As sold, it had Presta, but that does look like a bigger hole.

I'd fit Woods if so.

[thirdcrank]

Has the valve hole been enlarged in an attempt to prevent it causing the damage around the seat of the valve?

[hemo]

I added slime to tubed tyres on a mtb and the result was no good, slime was no match for blackthorn needles tube material just not able to seal like a TL tyre.
My gravel bike with TL WTB's I use Effafetto caffe latex and no issues, then again I probably haven't run over nay blackthorn lately.
One does have to replenish the sealant quarterly as it does dry out eventually.
I have also seen another product that claims it will last the life time of a tyre and remains fluid and is an agricultural TL tractor/farm machine sealant that can also be used for other tyres inc bikes.

[Jdsk]

is it the case that your rim is drilled for Schrader and you have a presta valve installed?

Which is precisely why I suggested adding photos. : - )

But I think we need one more: the valve showing through the hole but without the knurled nut.

Jonathan

[ALANWEAV]

Please find photos without nut as suggested.

[Brucey]

if you take the valve stem out of a failed tube, you will see that there is a tiny shoulder at the base, which is very slightly larger than the valve stem threads. It is this shoulder which prevents the valve stem from pulling through the hole in the rim. This means that if the rim hole is only fractionally larger than it needs to be the edge of the hole soon bears against the tube.

So your rims don't look as if they are drilled for Schrader but they don't look a really snug fit on presta either, so more checking wouldn't be a bad idea, eg using an old valve stem.

The other thing is that valve stems tear out of rear tubes if the tyre is run soft and you do a lot of climbing; could it be that?? Is there any sign that the tyre and tube are on the move?

cheers