How do you actually replace them?
I can remove the old, insert the new, but how on earth are you meant to align the pads with the holes, and then push the pin through the pad and crimp the pin in to the holder without having 4 elbows and a head that's 3" wide to view the thing?
Stupid replaceable brake pads question
Stupid replaceable brake pads question
A novice learning...
“the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.”
“the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.”
Re: Stupid replaceable brake pads question
Taken the holder off the brake calliper?
The older I get the more I’m inclined to act my shoe size, not my age.
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Re: Stupid replaceable brake pads question
[quoteI can remove the old, insert the new, but how on earth are you meant to align the pads with the holes, and then push the pin through the pad and crimp the pin in to the holder without having 4 elbows and a head that's 3" wide to view the thing?][/quote]
Simple-measure distance on shoe and mark distance from end to hole,insert till you reach marker and push in pin.Similar to another activity you may recognise.
Simple-measure distance on shoe and mark distance from end to hole,insert till you reach marker and push in pin.Similar to another activity you may recognise.
Re: Stupid replaceable brake pads question
If we assume the OP is talking about V brakes or cantilevers then there are two ways that will avoid having to reset the "holder" on the brake arm. 1. disconnect the spring so that the arm can easily be swung horizontal or some other angle to aid visibility. 2. Take the complete arm off the frame, then you can angle things as you want for visibility.peetee wrote:Taken the holder off the brake calliper?
Re: Stupid replaceable brake pads question
tatanab wrote:If we assume the OP is talking about V brakes or cantilevers then there are two ways that will avoid having to reset the "holder" on the brake arm. 1. disconnect the spring so that the arm can easily be swung horizontal or some other angle to aid visibility. 2. Take the complete arm off the frame, then you can angle things as you want for visibility.peetee wrote:Taken the holder off the brake calliper?
I think the OP is referring to the difficulty of fitting the pads into the pad holders which, unless I am mistaken, appear from the description to be still attached to the calliper.
Take the holder off the calliper and push the old pad out by holding the metal holder upright and pressing the end of the pad down onto the top edge of a work surface. Replacement, as they say....etc etc.
Taking them off also allows you to clean everything up which can facilitate accurate realignment of the pads by removing grit and corrosion.
Last edited by peetee on 11 Oct 2020, 1:57pm, edited 1 time in total.
The older I get the more I’m inclined to act my shoe size, not my age.
Re: Stupid replaceable brake pads question
Thanks all, they were sold as quick change but appear not to be.
I have one other concern with them, the unit is marked front and rear, but the end stop is at the front, so it's only the pin preventing the pad coming out under braking. The original pins have been factory fitted and I doubt I'll get as good a fit.
I have one other concern with them, the unit is marked front and rear, but the end stop is at the front, so it's only the pin preventing the pad coming out under braking. The original pins have been factory fitted and I doubt I'll get as good a fit.
A novice learning...
“the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.”
“the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible.”
Re: Stupid replaceable brake pads question
st599_uk wrote:Thanks all, they were sold as quick change but appear not to be.
I have one other concern with them, the unit is marked front and rear, but the end stop is at the front, so it's only the pin preventing the pad coming out under braking. The original pins have been factory fitted and I doubt I'll get as good a fit.
The brake pads are dragged forward under braking. ‘Front’ refers to the front of the bike not the front of the brake which on a rear calliper faces backwards.
The older I get the more I’m inclined to act my shoe size, not my age.
Re: Stupid replaceable brake pads question
st599_uk wrote:
I can remove the old, insert the new, but how on earth are you meant to align the pads with the holes, and then push the pin through the pad and crimp the pin in to the holder without having 4 elbows and a head that's 3" wide to view the thing?
The retaining pin should line up perfectly with the channel in the rear of the pad once the pad is fully inserted. It's sometimes necessary to use a scalpel or similar to remove any moulding flash that might be obstructing the channel. You can even carve a slight chamfer on the leading edge to make it a little easier to insert the pin.
The pins are self retaining once fully inserted and shouldn't need any crimping. The pin should emerge through the hole on the underside of the cartridge holder, you may need to wiggle it around a bit to achieve this.
Are you reusing the old pins ? Often new pads come with new retaining pins which are specific to that particular pad. The pins are sprung to engage with a restriction moulded into the channel in the rear of the pad.
Regarding the confusion about which way round the open end of the shoe should face. It's possible that yours may have been fitted the wrong way round in the past. The pin is only there to prevent the pads from ejecting if you apply the brakes whilst rolling backwards. The closed end of the shoe performs the same function when you brake whilst travelling forwards. Applying the brakes as you push the bike forwards should show you if yours are fitted correctly.
Re: Stupid replaceable brake pads question
st599_uk wrote:How do you actually replace them?
I can remove the old, insert the new, but how on earth are you meant to align the pads with the holes, and then push the pin through the pad and crimp the pin in to the holder without having 4 elbows and a head that's 3" wide to view the thing?
Make a mark on the new insert so you know where the slot is;
then align the mark with the hole for the pin.
Simples.
The pins do not need 'crimping'; they are sprung.
They are (IMHO) best fitted as per the RH one above; this way the pin is secure and there is no chance of it going into the tyre sidewall.
As others have noted the brake blocks should be pointed forwards, i.e. so the closed end is at the front and the rear (with the pin) is at the back.
If the new inserts do not slide into the holders easily, they are best fettled to remove the flash, and lubricated with soapy water.
cheers
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Brucey~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~