Brucey wrote:if you have a 7s altus rear hub and HB-CT91 (altus) front hub then it is probably FH-CT91 rear hub you have although it could be FH-CT90 I suppose.
It's an Altus freewheel, not a freehub, that I have at the moment.
Brucey wrote:if you have a 7s altus rear hub and HB-CT91 (altus) front hub then it is probably FH-CT91 rear hub you have although it could be FH-CT90 I suppose.
Bice wrote:Bit late, as I have ordered the Sputniks, but how do they ride?
I like the feel of the Marin as it is, with perky Continental slicks. It is a really comfortable, neat little bike.
Will the Sputniks deaden this? Hopefully not.
I know tourers love their Schwalbe Marathon Pluses, but I detested them on the 700c wheels of the Carlton. They killed the feel of the bike; were far too hard; and very slippery: I came off on some diesel and blame the Marathon Pluses.
They got better after a year or so of use, and I think would have been happier slightly less inflated. But I found them the nastiest tyres I have ever used. I now use some cheap, light Kendo tyres, that just feel so much better. I have had one puncture in two years, and I am more than happy to live with that.
Maybe the Marathon Pluses are better on 26 inch; maybe they are a huge advantage on heavily loaded bikes. But I like the Continentals for the riding I am doing at the moment.
I still have the Marathon Pluses, but they are unused in the cellar. I loved Schwalbe Marathon non-Pluses, which I thought were the perfect compromise for some puncture resistance.
nsew wrote:The Sputnik’s are absolutely fine with a proven touring reputation. Weighing in at 620g, I’d say is about where you want to be with a 26” touring rim. The expedition Ryde Andra would be an example of overkill for a European journey. What will make the biggest difference on a ride to the South of Italy, which I presume is a one way ride, is a tyre like the Schwalbe Supreme (500g), good puncture protection, very low rolling resistance and grippy with a lifespan in the region of 5000 miles.
Brucey wrote:if you have a 7s altus rear hub and HB-CT91 (altus) front hub then it is probably FH-CT91 rear hub you have although it could be FH-CT90 I suppose.
Bice wrote:
The freewheel is indeed Altus FH-CT91. Using it as I do, I am not anxious about it breaking and I regreased it a year ago. Not sure I really noticed what the "sealed system" is that is printed on the hub. It seemed just like all the other freewheels I have disassembled.....
I am only worried about broken freewheels on a long tour abroad.
Brucey wrote:Bice wrote:
The freewheel is indeed Altus FH-CT91. Using it as I do, I am not anxious about it breaking and I regreased it a year ago. Not sure I really noticed what the "sealed system" is that is printed on the hub. It seemed just like all the other freewheels I have disassembled.....
I am only worried about broken freewheels on a long tour abroad.
If you have FH-CT91 it is (in the usual parlance) a 'freehub' or 'cassette hub' not a 'freewheel' -although it does of course contain a freewheel mechanism, inside what is often called the 'freehub body'. eg
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-freehub-bodies/
When you say 'freewheel' without other information most folk will assume you mean a traditional screw-on freewheel not a cassette hub, especially if it is an older machine with 7s or fewer speeds, and you are concerned with axle breakage. So much of this thread has been at crossed purposes....?
If you are concerned about this part breaking, best carry a spare freehub body, if you are not using a type which is commonly available where you are travelling.
BTW in the link above there is only one 7s freehub body listed I think and it is not suitable for your hub.
cheers
Bice wrote:Brucey wrote:Bice wrote:
The freewheel is indeed Altus FH-CT91.
If you have FH-CT91 it is (in the usual parlance) a 'freehub' or 'cassette hub' not a 'freewheel' …..
It is a screw-on 7-speed freewheel, and people have responded incredibly helpfully with that understanding.
nsew wrote:Well the new wheels will be a significant improvement over whatever’s on the bike. Especially so if the OP persists with taking everything bar the kitchen sink.
Bice wrote:
I owe an apology to all,...
Brucey wrote:Bice wrote:
I owe an apology to all,...
no apology necessary, I'm just glad the mystery is solved.
BTW if you are building up sputniks, I find it of advantage to 'tweak' the eyelets so that there is less of a kink in the spoke near the nipple.
cheers
Bice wrote:
Thanks. How do you "tweak" them? You bend them to left / right a bit with a hole punch or something?
Brucey wrote:Bice wrote:
Thanks. How do you "tweak" them? You bend them to left / right a bit with a hole punch or something?
basically, yes. Best to get a screwdriver (or similar) where the shank is parallel-side and a close fit in the eyelets, then tweak away. It is easy to get confused about the required direction, so I find it is best to mark every spoke drilling first (by comparison with a similarly built wheel) so I won't go wrong. The direction is usually about 45 degrees to the plane of the rim. The required tweak is slightly different if you are building a wheel with a hub with a large flange (Alfine IGH for example)
A particular feature of sputniks is that
a) the spoke drillings are only very slightly staggered (but it is there) and
b) the stagger can be either left or right handed.
so some care is needed to make the best of these rims.
cheers