Diagram for AW gears?

[FV43576]

I have a Raleigh folding bike, which has been used in a lot of mileage since 1998 to work from trains. Now I have a very first issue. The second gear it won't engage the pedal go spin but I am go nowhere! I guess it is the grease becoming hard & sticking it required service next week when I am off work. I am not sure which type of Sturmey Archer gear is? My printed it says AW Made in England 92/5 it assures to be May 1992. Is this Mark two????
I am willing to use Lithium grease good for high friction and heating. My doesn't have oil refill nipple.

I was hoping someone knows which gear that I have and any diagram of parts put in together much appreciated.

Fab

[Mick F]

First thought is the cable adjustment.
Some of the SA AW 3sp hubs had a "neutral" between 2nd and 3rd.
The toggle chain adjustment is the critical thing.

What I used to do, was to put the trigger into 1st and make sure the cable was tight. Any slack at all had to be adjusted out.
Do the adjustment bit by bit in 2nd, and re-select 1st. Too tight, and it won't go into 1st.

Hopefully, someone will be along with a more technical solution and to ask you pertinent questions as to which bike and how old it is etc as I'm no expert. I can only suggest what I'd do ......... and used to do.

[FV43576]

First thought is the cable adjustment.
Some of the SA AW 3sp hubs had a "neutral" between 2nd and 3rd.
The toggle chain adjustment is the critical thing.

What I used to do, was to put the trigger into 1st and make sure the cable was tight. Any slack at all had to be adjusted out.
Do the adjustment bit by bit in 2nd, and re-select 1st. Too tight, and it won't go into 1st.

Hopefully, someone will be along with a more technical solution and to ask you pertinent questions as to which bike and how old it is etc as I'm no expert. I can only suggest what I'd do ......... and used to do.

Thanks I will try this tomorrow. :thumb up:

[alexnharvey]

Are these the ones that you can add oil to through the toggle chain hole?

A workmate was struggling to change gears on her thoroughly neglected three speed recently and I had to pull on toggle chain directly, it was too stiff for the cable and shifter to move it.

[robc02]

You should be able to find the info you want on the Sturmey Archer Heritage website.

If your hub doesn't have an oil hole it was meant for SA grease. If the hub is to work properly the grease needs to be the right consistency, so be careful if you use something different. Alternatively you can introduce oil by unscrewing the toggle chain and introducing it down the hollow axle.

The chain tension is meant to be adjusted by aligning a mark on the indicator (toggle chain) with the end of the axle when in a certain gear. This all depends on having the correct indicator and it being fitted correctly. I, like many others, use the method described above by Mick.

[Brucey]

there is a neutral between gear two and gear three. You should adjust the cable so that the control rod is positioned as per the diagram below in gear 2



cheers

[FV43576]

Thanks for the link Sturmey Archer Heritage website.

[FV43576]

there is a neutral between gear two and gear three. You should adjust the cable so that the control rod is positioned as per the diagram below in gear 2



cheers

Thanks try tomorrow it has been helpful.

[Mick F]

Further to Brucey's link and diagram, when the rod is correct, the cable is TIGHT.

This means, that if you can't see due to muck or poor eyesight or poor light .............. it's always difficult to see the rod itself .................. the "tightness in 1st" adjustment is best. You don't even need to look.

[rjb]

I experienced the occasional slipping in 2nd gear on my sturmey 3 SPD dynohub. Despite carefully checking the adjustment was correct as per the flat on the control rod. I couldn't stop the occasional slip until I tightened up the cable adjustment so it was tight in 1st gear and have had no further problem since.
You may be able to unscrew the control rod and dribble oil directly into the hub down the toggle chain hole.

[Brucey]

it is worth noting that the adjustment diagram is only relevant if the correct length of control rod is fitted to the hub. Since there are about a dozen different lengths, it is not uncommon to find that the wrong length of rod has been fitted, in which case lack of cable slack in low gear is a good method of checking the adjustment, but this is reliant on the shifter behaving in a 'normal' fashion.

A control rod that is too short can often work OK but one that is too long may not allow selection of low gear, regardless of cable adjustment.

cheers

[FV43576]

Hello, thank you for a very helpful tips, it wasn't the adjustment that makes the second gear disengage forever, it is snap main spring that push the four teeth points rotation I do not know the name. Also the gear teeth is badly worth it looks need new whole set there is plenty of stocks on eBay, but I felt that I want like to buy the 5 speed for make a change, I asked the two seller if the width of 5 speed gear is same as the 3 speed gears? none both of them is reply to me over a week! I was wonder if anyone have experience to fit 5 gear from 3 speed without any problem? is the both 3 & 5 speed width are the same or not?

thanks
Fab

[Brucey]

some pre NIG AW shells will accept some 5s internals, and there are several different 5s internal types. So in general there isn't a yes/no answer; however in the case of an AG 3s dynohub there is a simple answer and that is 'no' the AG hubshell is not big enough to contain a 5s internal. There is no such thing as a 5s dynohub (they can be built by modifying a FG hub if you want) and the FG hub is usually wider than the AG. Unless you know exactly what you are doing, it is probably a better idea to build a wheel using a 5s hub complete with its 5s hubshell.

The other thing is that if you have managed to wear/break a 3s hub, then a 5s hub probably won't last that long; they are (as a rule) less strong, easier to break, and more difficult to repair than a 3s hub.

If you want to repair an AG (3s dyno) hub the only internal parts that are different from an AW are the planet cage (always) and the axle (not always). AG axles are the same as AW axles but the shortest AW axles won't work. The AG planet cage is difficult to break, so can probably be re-used. This means that provided the AG planet cage is intact, you can nearly always rebuild an AG using an AW as a donor. If neither axle is serviceable you can still buy a new axle to fit the older (Pre NIG) type AW/AG hub; retail cost is about £15.

cheers

[FV43576]

Brucey: Thanks again for the info appreciate it

[Sid Aluminium]

I have a Raleigh folding bike, which has been used in a lot of mileage since 1998 to work from trains...AW Made in England 92/5

A twenty-two year-old 'lot of mileage' hub with its very first issue? Seems like a reasonable service life. Could just slide a new internal AW-NIG works into your existing (clean, undamaged) HSA104 hub shell. Match the axle length to your old one!

I am willing to use Lithium grease good for high friction and heating.

What you want for the gear mech is semi-fluid NLGI #00 grease, and you'll almost certainly want to add some to a fresh, out-of-the-box replacement internal works. Put quality bike bearing grease on the hub's axle ball bearings and some waterproof grease in the labyrinth seals.