Cable head jammed inside Shimano shifter

[doffcocker]

Hi all,

Does anybody have experience removing gear cable heads from Shimano shifters, specifically the ST-R2000-R?

I have decided that I'm gonna attempt to replace cables for the first time, however I can already see that I may have a problem removing the cable head. I have spent a lot of time trying to wiggle and poke it out the side but there seems to be very restricted movement in there. Admittedly I haven't cut the cable yet which I'm hoping will make a difference, I just don't want to do that before knowing for sure that it won't make it even harder to get out.

[peetee]

If that strap is holding the lever for the sake of a clearer photo then all well and good but before you try to remove the cable let the lever free or you may risk damaging the ratchet or the return springs.
Make sure the rotating cable drum is round as far as it will go by clicking the small lever. If this doesn’t bring the wider end slot of the drum (where the cable end barrel sits) in line with the wide slot in the body you will need three hands for the next bit:
Hand one has a jewellers screwdriver or some such to align the cable end barrel, hand two rotates and pushes/pulls the free end of the cable, hand three operates the shift levers up/down BUT ONLY if there is no additional pressure required to do so.

[willcee]

Had same issue back last year fortunately my job was on higher model shifters and i could remove to expose parts to see better . what i think has happened and you cannot see yet is the cable has parachuted wide where it has broken strands inside the lever and that is preventing the head to move backwards.. good luck much patience and the lever on the bench and clamped in the vice by the strap.. will

[531colin]

I can see why these levers are so popular.

[Audax67]

Been there, done that, but it was too long ago to remember the details. It involved a scriber and much patience. Whatever, I'd at least make sure there's no tension on the cable before attempting anything.

I replaced my cables with PTFE-covered ones, but a mechanic I know said he'd rather use a super-flexible brand. The PTFE ones are still doing OK, though, and it's been a few years since (famous last words).

[doffcocker]

As always, a big thanks for your replies.

To confirm, is it advisable to continue trying to get it dislodged BEFORE cutting the cable? Is there anything to be gained in cutting the cable or is it just suicide?

[Brucey]

if you can cut the cable cleanly within 1/2" of the nipple, and access it so that it can be gripped and pushed (without the drum rotating as you do it), I'd regard this as a step forwards. If the cable is frayed, the frayed strands will usually come away when the cable is cut and will no longer obstruct the cable end near the nipple from coming out the reverse way from the way it went it to start with.

cheers

[doffcocker]

if you can cut the cable cleanly within 1/2" of the nipple, and access it so that it can be gripped and pushed (without the drum rotating as you do it), I'd regard this as a step forwards. If the cable is frayed, the frayed strands will usually come away when the cable is cut and will no longer obstruct the cable end near the nipple from coming out the reverse way from the way it went it to start with.

cheers

Hey Bruce.

I was thinking I might be able to cut exactly how you describe it, but then poke it out somehow from the angle shown in the photo. Is that not likely to work?

[iandusud]

I recently came up against the same problem for the first time, despite having changed a lot of STI gear wires. What I did was to cut the gear wire allowing enough to grip with a pair of pliers so that I could rotate and push the gear wire simultaneously. It still took some persuading but it came out. It appeared to me that the nipple was a tight fit in its housing in the lever.

[Brucey]

... It appeared to me that the nipple was a tight fit in its housing in the lever.

this is common in cables which have 'flash' on the nipple.

I was thinking I might be able to cut exactly how you describe it, but then poke it out somehow from the angle shown in the photo. Is that not likely to work?

Honestly, I can't see what is going on very well in your picture.

cheers

[peetee]

Can you see any frayed cable? If not you may have caught it in time to make an easier fix. It looks like the cable has not followed the drum back on a change to a smaller sprocket (usually caused by friction somewhere inside the outer casing). A change to a bigger sprocket has caused the drum to drag the dislocated barrel around to get wedged inside the body where it is preventing the drum to return to the last click. You may have to encourage the drum round by clicking the small lever and carefully applying a bit of rotational force to the drum with the corner of a small straight edge screwdriver in the cable channel. It might not want to move so manipulate the cable as you do so. Again, more than a two-handed job so not easy.

[doffcocker]

Honestly, I can't see what is going on very well in your picture.

cheers

Sorry hope these are clearer, as I say I was wondering if there's any scope for clipping the cable as close to the nipple as possible then using something sharp to poke the remaining wire and nipple out from inner side of the shifter.

Looking through the hole where the cable runs from the inner side, there does seem to be space to poke through to but wonder if I'm just being hopeful rather than realistic.

[doffcocker]

No worries folks, I've DONE it! I eventually plucked it out with a a pick tool.

I mean...a sum of 8 hours trying to get the thing out and I'VE ONLY GONE AND <F.F.E.> DONE IT!

Sorry, just needed to write it and do some cartwheels etc.

Thanks again all.

[Brucey]

result!

Still not clear about exactly how it was jammed though!

cheers

[Audax67]

@Doff Congrats! There ought to be a fraternity with a membership badge. More to the point, Shimano ought to provide a special extractor free of charge with every set of shifters.