Which rust inhibitors are people using?

[Chat Noir]

Now my Bob Jackson frame has been repaired and before I rebuild it thought I’d check what rust inhibitors other people are using. The last thread I found on here had a spread of preferences
( viewtopic.php?f=1&t=110666&hilit=rust+inhibitors&start=30#p1110357 ) including Dinitrol, Waxoyl, Weigle, engine oil, Dynax S50, AFC 50 and linseed oil.

I have a tin of Dinitrol which is at least 10 years old and has done loads of frames (and what BJ always used), all seems fine with this product although best not to apply in decent clothes or inside the house if you’re someone who might think it would be a good idea to turn the frame upside down to check how you’ve done.

The main tubes that I can see are all clean, there is a little grot at the far end inside the wheel stays but nothing too bad, certainly not for a steel bike from the early 90s. I use an endoscope to check inside the frame where I can (at £20 an excellent tool to have, bought to prevent accidents when wiring a VW campervan).

So, am expecting to use the Dinitrol if the tin will still work but open to suggestions.

Thanks

[fausto99]

Dinitrol seems to be a brand name for lots of different products. Which one is your tin?

[PDQ Mobile]

I use oil.
And I am not so fussy about what type.
My view is that having the inside of the frame totally dry before application is actually the most important factor. A week(at least) in a warm dry place! Or in summer sun.

Thicker oils last better.
Thinner oils penetrate better.
All in my VHO.

[fastpedaller]

So, am expecting to use the Dinitrol if the tin will still work but open to suggestions.

Thanks

Sounds good - I used the Lidl product which seems similar to Din, Waxoyl etc.
I recently punctured a non-working aerosol whilst holding it in the vice and using a piece of wood with a nail in the end from a metre distance just in case This meant I could save about 1/4 of the penetrating oil in another container...... Anyway, I've now found (via the 'net of course) it's possible to recharge an aerosol using a car valve and bicycle pump. In my experience aerosols (especially if they dry to solids like wax) are prone to getting clogged in the 'spray button', so this is the first place to investigate if no spray emits.

[Pebble]

So, am expecting to use the Dinitrol if the tin will still work but open to suggestions.

Thanks

Sounds good - I used the Lidl product which seems similar to Din, Waxoyl etc.
I recently punctured a non-working aerosol whilst holding it in the vice and using a piece of wood with a nail in the end from a metre distance just in case This meant I could save about 1/4 of the penetrating oil in another container...... Anyway, I've now found (via the 'net of course) it's possible to recharge an aerosol using a car valve and bicycle pump. In my experience aerosols (especially if they dry to solids like wax) are prone to getting clogged in the 'spray button', so this is the first place to investigate if no spray emits.

Never thought of doing that - if I suddenly dissapear from the forum then it didn't go to well ....

Anyway, as for sticky stuff bunging up the spray nozzles - someimes with track pumps you get a little metal spiky valve insert (I think it is for blowing up footballs?) Well this fits neatly into the back of the spray nozzle of a spray can. After using something that might bung up the nozzle, pop it off and pump some clean air through it. put a drop of white spirit or acetone first.

[PH]

I use ACF 50, it's all I've ever used so have no comparison. I'm not clear how often such treatments are intended to last, so as I have the BB, seatpost and forks out annually anyway, I give it a squirt whether it needs it or not. The blurb claims it neutralises any rust present, I don't know if it's wonder stuff or the equivalent of a voodoo ritual, but it leaves me comfortably reassured.
If you've been happy with Dinitrol I'd be inclined to stick with it, unless you can be sure that something else offers something better and won't react with any residual treatment that might have been left in there.

[reohn2]

Internally a one off treatment with Waxoyl with the frame and forks and aerosol can warmed up in the sun or near a radiator.
Externally in winter,wash regularly(sometimes every ride)wipe down with an old towel then and a quick spray over with GT85,being careful not to spray on disc rotors or pads.

[bgnukem]

Have used Waxoyl cavity wax (the clear/brownish stuff) in the past, sloshed around in the frame tubes in liquid form, but takes ages to dry out at ambient temperatures and will tend to ooze out of the bottom bracket for years afterwards if not dry.

If doing the job now I'd probably use Bilt Hamber S50 cavity wax as it comes in large 600ml aerosols with long tubes/lances available for insertion into car underbody seams, which would be ideal inside frame tubes - just squirt the can and slowly draw the lance out of the frame tubes from one end to the other.

S50 claims to be more effective at corrosion protection than Waxoyl too, and Bilt Hamber products seem to have a good reputation on the classic car forums.

I use Waxoyl underbody treatment (black) on my car, which seems to be more tenacious than the clear/brown waxoyl cavity way, but again the issue would be getting it into the frame tubes as it seems to be available in aerosol format only.

[slowster]

I use Dinitrol ML. Extension nozzles are available for the aerosols which can be inserted into the chain stays via the bottom bracket shell.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aerosol-Extension-Nozzle-600mm-for-Spray-Cans-360-Spray-Dinitrol-ML-3125-/183361875178

[cycle tramp]

I bought a new front rack a few weeks ago (surly 'nice rack') and whilst it is a thing of... er...usefulness, I was surprised at the number of vent holes.
Luckily they were the same size as the nozzle of a small plastic syringe...
...so after squirting a bit of wd40 in each hole, from a can, I then squirted some engine oil into each hole, using the syringe, and then followed that up by squirting in a bit of grease to block the hole off. I then left the rack upside down for a week for the oil to dry out abit.
Having fitted the rack, I'll turn the bike over in September 21 and treat all the holes with whatever people recommend on this thread

[The utility cyclist]

I never understood why people used rust inhibitors if the bike was good enough to be looked after, what aspect of use allows water to ingress to such a degree that rust is going to present a problem?
I rode a Raleigh Record Sprint as a commuter, utility, touring plus weekend bike for 11 years in all weathers, never had any rust issues.

How can you tell if what you are applying is actually doing any good?

[gregoryoftours]

I've used boiled linseed oil on one frame, (have to be careful that any rags are disposed of properly or risk a fire). Waxoyl cavity wax on another- liquified in a bowl in a pan of hot water and sloshed around in a frame with the aid of a hairdryer.

No idea if it's worked well or not but buys a bit of peace of mind, and I can't see how it wouldn't help a bit if the bottom bracket area and chainstays get a good coating. I had a bit of leaking from the linseed oil but not too much. That bike is now stolen!

I have seen frames rust through so know it's a possibility. Especially if you're a steel MTB rider going through water, washing your bike, ride with some bottle cage bolts missing etc. Can also get water down the seat clamp slot, in via the top tube on old steel frames with internal cable section for example of old steel Galaxies.

You can also get some quite serious condensation inside the frame if it goes from cold damp conditions to warm. It's quite common for square taper bottom brackets to be really rusty when they're removed. Rust is also more likely to be a problem for better quality frames with thinner tubes.

[cycle tramp]

I never understood why people used rust inhibitors if the bike was good enough to be looked after, what aspect of use allows water to ingress to such a degree that rust is going to present a problem?
I rode a Raleigh Record Sprint as a commuter, utility, touring plus weekend bike for 11 years in all weathers, never had any rust issues.

How can you tell if what you are applying is actually doing any good?

Good question! From my own point of view, attempting to inhibit rust isn't so much an admission of bicycle mistreatment, but rather an acceptance that, air (especially west country air) contains moisture and if the moisture gets cold it will form water. Whilst this is not an issue outside of a steel tube, inside a steel tube, especially a steel tube with a restrictive air flow, is not ideal.

Does it work? No idea - however from my own point of view I would rather spend 30 minutes attempting to apply measures to inhibit internal corrosion, than not spend 30 minutes only to find I wish I did in 4 to 5 years time.
Admittedly I also have a rock on my desk which keeps tigers away....

[nsew]

My reasoning is that changes in temperatures and humidity create moisture inside frame tubes. When touring and camping in the winter/spring/fall the changes in temps and humidity can be dramatic. It’s a straight forward process with the frame stripped and performed outside. I use Dinitrol ML. A preventative maintenance for a steel frame that’s cherished.

[PH]

How can you tell if what you are applying is actually doing any good?

You can't. A rusty frame proves that whatever you did doesn't prevent rust, but a non rusty frame is just a source of anecdote.
Take a guess and act accordingly, what's so hard to understand about others guessing differently?