Massif Central V74 / Crossing the Volcano

[bohrsatom]

In search of inspiration for a tour this year I came across the route of La Grande Traversée du Volcan à Vélo, aka the veloroute v74 aka "Crossing the Volcano" on cycle.travel: https://cycle.travel/route/crossing_volcano_puy_mary. This takes in what looks to be a very scenic route between the Lot and the Allier.

The route profile is pretty steep - the last few kms to the top of the Pas de Peyrol look particularly spicy - but connected to another route on a longer trip (perhaps the Garonne) it'd offer a nice mixture of flats and more scenic mountain climbs

Has anyone ridden this route before? Although it's a popular climb I can only find a smattering of reports from other cycle tourists

[Angstrom]

Yes I have.
Here is my trip and a photo album.
It's a very nice trip but as you say, the Pas de Peyrol is very steep. It is quite worth the effort though.

I did it East to West and this is in my opinion a better choice (and the climb is less hard to Prat de Peyrol).

We started in Brioude, which can be reached by TER from Clermont-Ferrand. Clermont-Ferrand can be reached by Inter Cité Trains accepting bikes (for a 10€ fee).

If travelling by air, the Nîmes Airport or even Montpellier can serve as a landing point from which the train station can be reached in less than an hour of riding the bike. The train journey from Nîmes to Brioude is stunning and worth it by itself (free roll on bikes into the train).
In Agen, one can join Bordeaux or Toulouse by scenic and flat bike routes.
If you have questions, I'll be happy to answer.

[aquilo]

Lovely part of France, can't recommend it highly enough. Been up to the pas De Peyrol twice, first time in June and it was still closed due to snow! Then we went past Le Mont Dore and there was a flipping ski resort in the middle of France! Most unexpected.

[bohrsatom]

If you have questions, I'll be happy to answer.

Thanks both the for replies. I’m considering starting in Bordeaux and finishing in Clermont Ferrand, heading up the Peyrol from Aurillac.

cycle.travel plots a route following the Garonne to Moissac - a stretch I’ve ridden before - then heads cross country to meet the V86 (Lot valley Veloroute): https://cycle.travel/map/journey/285932

How do you think that compares to the more northerly route you took through Bergerac etc?

[bohrsatom]

I'm heading away next month so have been looking at the route in finer detail.

In my research I found an alternative route between Aurillac and Puy Mary. The official route takes the D17 (36kms, cycle.travel), but I found an alternative via the D35 and D680 (65kms, cycle.travel). The second route is clearly longer, and involves quite a bit more climbing (1000m vs 1700m), with a final 2kms at 11% (climb info)

Clearly we'll struggle up the last bit but we're in no rush and the alternative looks quite picturesque.

If anyone has knowledge of the area (or first hand experience of the routes) I'd be interested to get your opinion

[Angstrom]

If you have questions, I'll be happy to answer.

Thanks both the for replies. I’m considering starting in Bordeaux and finishing in Clermont Ferrand, heading up the Peyrol from Aurillac.

cycle.travel plots a route following the Garonne to Moissac - a stretch I’ve ridden before - then heads cross country to meet the V86 (Lot valley Veloroute): https://cycle.travel/map/journey/285932

How do you think that compares to the more northerly route you took through Bergerac etc?

I apologise for missing out on your question and not answering. It looks like you've manged on your own. Please come back to let us know how you liked this tour and routes.

[bohrsatom]

I will! From the lack of comments I get the feeling this is a reasonably uncharted route, so I'll be happy to share my experience when I get home.

From Aurillac I'm pretty set on the D35/D680 route in preference to the official route along D17. The road up the Col de Legal / Col St Georges looks fab, Salers appears to be a town worthy of exploration and the D680 over the Col de Neronne and up to Puy Mary has great scenery. All worth the risk of having to push up the steepest 2kms of the climb. I just hope I get the same weather as the Google Street View car

Overall, my plan is:

• 200kms from Bordeaux to Moissac along the Garonne
• 150kms cross-country + the Lot valley to Port D'Agres
• 250kms up to Puy Mary then down to Clermont Ferrand

Should be a good mix of rivers, rolling countryside and some mountains too

[MrsHJ]

Sounds great. I’ve done sections around the Massif Central and it is fab so enjoy and report back.

[Tiggertoo]

Can I ask if you are planning to camp or find 'soft bedded' accommodation?

[bohrsatom]

Can I ask if you are planning to camp or find 'soft bedded' accommodation?

The plan is to camp with a hotel/pension every 4 or 5 days

[Angstrom]

I will! From the lack of comments I get the feeling this is a reasonably uncharted route, so I'll be happy to share my experience when I get home.

You will see other cyclists, mostly Lycra and carbon bikes. Probably a few with bikepacking gear but surely no-one with panniers at that seasons.

From Aurillac I'm pretty set on the D35/D680 route in preference to the official route along D17. The road up the Col de Legal / Col St Georges looks fab, Salers appears to be a town worthy of exploration and the D680 over the Col de Neronne and up to Puy Mary has great scenery. All worth the risk of having to push up the steepest 2kms of the climb. I just hope I get the same weather as the Google Street View car

Good choice (that's the one I took (downhill) although I admit I haven't done the others so can't really compare. Salers is definetly a place to visit (don't miss out on Salers cheese).

Overall, my plan is:

• 200kms from Bordeaux to Moissac along the Garonne
• 150kms cross-country + the Lot valley to Port D'Agres
• 250kms up to Puy Mary then down to Clermont Ferrand

Should be a good mix of rivers, rolling countryside and some mountains too

Great plan: It isn't just "down to Clermont-Ferrand". There will be quite a few "ups" along the way.

I will come back to read your report after you're done.

[bohrsatom]

I'm back. What a trip! We were a little unlucky with the weather, catching the end of a heatwave which saw SW France experience temperatures over 40c. For 10 days after the weather became quite unpredictable with heavy thundery downpours most nights. In the end we had to wait out a few of the wetter days so it was good we had some flexibility in the schedule.

Back to the ride. It was amazing. Such a pretty part of France with barely a car in sight. The climbs were (mostly) manageable on a heavily laden touring bike and the descent coming off Puy Mary, with panoramic views for miles, was unforgettable.

I recorded some videos for friends/family and have strung them together into a 5-minute clip:



We didn’t follow the official route in its entirety and I’d suggest others also explore the region more fully. This is our final route: https://cycle.travel/map/journey/337794

[Angstrom]

I'm back. What a trip! We were a little unlucky with the weather, catching the end of a heatwave which saw SW France experience temperatures over 40c. For 10 days after the weather became quite unpredictable with heavy thundery downpours most nights. In the end we had to wait out a few of the wetter days so it was good we had some flexibility in the schedule.

A bit unlucky indeed.

Back to the ride. It was amazing. Such a pretty part of France with barely a car in sight. The climbs were (mostly) manageable on a heavily laden touring bike and the descent coming off Puy Mary, with panoramic views for miles, was unforgettable.

We love it so much, we are leaving on Friday to do a North to South Route starting in Clermont Ferrand and finishing at Millau (or La Canourgue, North of that), crossing your route à Allanche. Gooing down from Pas de Peyrol must be thrilling and you do feel you ride down a volcano on that stretch.

I recorded some videos for friends/family and have strung them together into a 5-minute clip:

Thanks. It does give a good idea of the beautiful landscapes. I can spot many places in your video where I rode before.

We didn’t follow the official route in its entirety and I’d suggest others also explore the region more fully. This is our final route: https://cycle.travel/map/journey/337794

From Salers to Blesle you followed the very same itinirary but we rode Westward. Where you are seen pushing your bikes up Pas de Peyrol is where I felt my V-brakes might not be sufficient going downhill with my ladden bike (I subsequently briefly looked at Maguras; never did buy them though). I was a bit scared by the idea of a cable coming loose or breaking on the particular segment.
I also know rather well the Chataigneraie area between Maurs and Aurillac. You could have done a worthwhile detour via Marcolès. A beautiful medieval town. Not that you didn't see enough during your trip though ...

Anyway, thanks a lot for sharing.

[MrsHJ]

Loved the video- good job. Really reminded me of some cycle tours across that area. I usually go north west to south east and vice versa- cycling from Brittany to the Mediterranean or back so I don’t think I’ve done that route. I remember all the amazing birds too (hoopoes, raptors etc) and those wonderfully quiet roads. Gorgeous.

[bohrsatom]

I remember all the amazing birds too (hoopoes, raptors etc) and those wonderfully quiet roads. Gorgeous.

Watching the birds of prey whilst climbing the hills was fantastic. At one stage a red kite took an interest in a not particularly slender rabbit, which resulted in the rabbit hopping for its life across the road and into the undergrowth. Would love to have seen the red kite take on the rabbit!

I also know rather well the Chataigneraie area between Maurs and Aurillac. You could have done a worthwhile detour via Marcolès. A beautiful medieval town. Not that you didn't see enough during your trip though ...

Marcolès was on my list of diversions, but the weather on the day we rode through the Chataigneraie was changeable and we needed to get to Aurillac before 2pm to avoid an afternoon of heavy showers, so unfortunately we were forced to miss out. In the end we made it as far as 2kms outside Aurillac when the heavens opened so it was probably for the best. If we're ever in the area in future it'll be on my list of places to visit

Enjoy your upcoming trip to the area