lettersquash wrote: ↑29 Jun 2022, 10:30pm
Anyway, I'm getting off topic! When I investigate the state of the bottom bracket on the Marin, am I going to need to buy a special tool?
Zenitb, I enjoyed reading your blog. I'm also thinking about changing my seat post (preferably before mine breaks on the way to work) for a straight one like in your pic. I wasn't even sure if that was a thing, but I've not had much time to search. I think the extra inch further forward would help my arm position, although I'm also going to swap to wider bars with a bit of a backward curve for better wrist position. On the Marinoni I had one of those side-fitting seat clamps set forward instead of on the back of the seat post, and I changed the stem for a higher one.
Hi, what makes you think your bottom bracket needs attention, is there play ?
Anyway, you will need two tools, one to remove the cranks, I don't know if the White Industries cranks (Sugino) have a different thread to Shimano,
I wouldn't imagine so - possibly some of the other contributors to this thread may confirm.
e.g. This cheap one from Spa Cycles
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m13b0s72p31 ... ler-YC216C
You will also need a bottom bracket (BB) tool-Shimano fit.
Again Spa do a cheap one (as you're near or in Harrogate I assume, but other makes of tool and suppliers are available !
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m13b0s72p31 ... ool-YC26BB
Be aware (if you don't remember from your other bike), that the drive side BB fixed cup is a left hand thread and undoes clockwise - towards the front of the bike, the non drive side loose cup has a normal right-hand thread and undoes anti-clockwise (still towards the front of the bike, assuming you have the spanner on the BB tool at the 12.0.clock position).
If the BB unit is U/S you will need to measure the width of it's spindle over the ends of the tapers to get the correct replacement and what the frame BB shell width is - 68mm or 73mm (most likely for a mountain bike). As mentioned below, grease before replacing a new unit in frame.
About changing your seat post, I'm not sure I would bother personally, it's unlikely to break, just make sure it's well greased periodically so that it doesn't seize in the frame, copper grease anti-seize is best, it interferes with the chemical reaction between the aluminium post and the steel frame which causes seizures. If you do decide to replace the seat post get, one with some set-back and measure the post's diameter to get a correct replacement, Kalloy do some inexpensive ones in various sizes.
I see up-thread that you are experiencing excess weight on your hands, and also reach issues, fitting a straight seat post will reduce your reach but will put ... more ... weight on your hands not less, getting your seat back as far as you can on the rails will take more weight ...off... your hands (try sliding over the back of the seat whilst riding to feel how this works, you should feel the weight transfer from the heel of the hand to the inside of your fingers the farther back you go; so the set back post you already have works to your advantage in this regard. To reduce the reach (and also get even more weight off your hands), a better way is to reduce the length of the handlebar stem and increase it's height, combining this with some handle bars with a bit of backwards sweep will also help. Aim to get the bars level or even a touch above seat height.
There are a couple of ways to achieve this, the most straightforward way would be to fit a short-reach replacement threaded riser quill stem to suit your existing 1&1/8'' threaded headset set-up. You could either get one with some angular adjustment so that you can find your most comfortable position or a fixed one - do a bit of measuring to see where you think your reach would be best.
Various adjustable and non-adjustable shown on this page from SJS Cycles for example.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stems-1-18-quill-threaded/
An alternate method is to fit a quill, to modern threadless steerer tube adaptor, then dial in your fit using either an adjustable, or fixed length/angle stem.
e.g.adaptor
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m9b109s88p1 ... ll-Adaptor
and there is a page of various stems here for example
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stems-1-18- ... ed/?page=2
Stems also need to match the diameters of handlebar you choose - there are two or three different sizes I think.
You talk up-thread somewhere about replacing your cantilever brakes with V brakes, be aware you would need to fit different brake levers to suit, as V brakes require a different amount of cable pull to work correctly, I can't see if you have combined gear and brake levers or if they are separate units from your pictures.
Nothing's simple is it ?!!
This may all feel a bit overwhelming, but it's fairly straightforward once you get you head around , all the little ' what bit fits with what' complications.
If you like how the bike rides and it's your size, it's certainly worth gradually improving it.
I've got a similar era Saracen which is a touch big for me but I made it work with adjustments to the stem similar to above. It cost me £35 initially and I spent a bit over a £100 on it to begin with and felt it was worthwhile.
I just got around to replacing the adjustable stem on mine yesterday with a fixed one.