Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

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Biospace
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by Biospace »

lettersquash wrote: 25 Jun 2022, 12:15am
Biospace wrote: 22 Jun 2022, 1:53pm Some of the examples on RB are stunning, it's not often my own bike looks as clean as in the pic above - it's well maintained, but only cleaned cosmetically, thoroughly, once a year!

Spring scales are often a little out, but the tyres, tubes and saddle could be adding to the manufacturer's claimed weight, as will the mudguards. What are the scales reading?
About 11.4kg. There's hardly any tyre left, and everything looks like it's original apart from the saddle (either the one that was on it with or my kid's bike one). I can't see that making nearly a kilo difference. But the weight must depend on the frame size - just more or less steel - so maybe they quote the smallest size for sales-pitch reasons. Anyway, it is what it is - light. :D
More than mine with its suspension forks, then... it's perhaps worth removing the saddle and seeing how heavy (or not) it is, some are like lead weights. The tyre on the rear isn't the lightest, from memory, and if there's slime in tubes, it weighs more than you'd think. You can add the mass of the mirror, bell, mudguards and fixings, general muck and rust, too!

I'm sure manufacturers always use scales on the optimistic side, although my BVSE is pretty close to the claimed 24½ lb. It's the first bike I've used extensively with suspension forks, being short of a solid pair with the right dimensions I rebuilt them and intended to replace when something solid turned up.
Jamesh
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by Jamesh »

Biospace wrote: 24 Jun 2022, 1:42pm
lettersquash wrote: 20 Jun 2022, 11:17pm Swaledale, now there's a good idea, my favourite dale.
Last summer, not the best of pics (I cropped the family out, hadn't been intended to be a pic of the Marin - note to self, must take pics of my own bike when out and about with the family!) but the bike worked very hard that day and was a joy to use at all times, even when I grew tired and had other tired people to jolly along. It's when you're knackered that you appreciate some of the subtler aspects of a really good bike.

Taken near Crackpot Hall above Keld, we were riding up-dale and enjoyed a swim a mile or so further along - it was a hot day, the sun only went in for the pic!!


2021-08-27 16.38.53.jpeg

Your comments about brakes, lettersquash, reminds me I replaced the fiddly cantis the bike originally had with more straightforwards but effective Shimanos.
I bet that pics on the mantle piece with the family cropped out .. !
zenitb
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Great potential !!!

Post by zenitb »

A lot of us think fully rigid MTBs from the 1990s make a great basis for an all round (roads and tracks) cycle touring bike. Here's my 1993 Cannondale M700 in France.
M700 in France
M700 in France
.the green routes in brittany are generally unsurfaced so using fat 2" Schwalbe touring tyres you get the best compromise for on and off tarmac...while carrying full camping gear.

I have dredged up the conversion story here...you can see I have raised the stem, fitted racks, lighting and guards etc.

http://zenit-b.blogspot.com/2016/11/can ... g.html?m=1
Biospace
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by Biospace »

Jamesh wrote: 28 Jun 2022, 5:52pm
I bet that pics on the mantle piece with the family cropped out .. !
Sometimes there's a comment such as "you always manage to get the bikes in on the pictures", when in reality I'm not even aware I am when taking photos for the family album! Must replace the pic on the mantlepiece with the tandem sometime - it takes up so much room in the garage 🤔

I agree, zenitb, there's not much better than a good 90s MTB. I grew up longing for a bike which was sufficiently robust to go where you'd otherwise only ride a 26" (590) wheel Raleigh which was as light and sweet to ride as my 531 touring bike - the Marin is this, and for so little money. The emerging MTBs in the 80s weren't so much better than an old Raleigh, brakes excepted perhaps, even if I'd had the spare money to buy one.

Having said that, it was surprising just how far off-road you could reach on alloy 27" wheels, World Tour 1¼" tyres and a slender frame, provided there wasn't too much luggage.

Coming back to cycling a few years ago, I tried a few MTBs from the 90s - an early Saracen, a Raleigh Cyclone with a quality wheelset (a very sweet ride, better than so many 90s MTBs imo), a couple of Konas, an Orange Clockwork and a very sweet DiamondBack (either an Axis or Ascent) before finding the Marin's blend of qualities was right up my street - there's a yellow 531 Dawes MTB from the late 80s I think and a Dawes Ranger which are both waiting to be restored for use, plus a small frame Univega Alpina for my 10yo when he's big enough.

One reason I chose the Konas was for their exposed seat tube protruding above the seatstays and crossbar, I didn't fancy attaching a trail bike to an ally seatpost, no matter how well hardened. Here's a pic of the '92 Kona (with guards and racks removed, cleaned and readied for sale, complete with disc brake I'd trialled) and the later one in some typical Lake District weather, complete with saw for firewood!

IMG_2289.jpeg


2019-08-13 23.57.39  DSCF5142~2.JPG
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lettersquash
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by lettersquash »

I'm really chuffed to hear so many people praising the sort of bike I've bought, and very lucky, because I didn't know anything about them, and my knowledge of bikes in general is pretty patchy. I've had a couple of short commutes to work - it's only about 1/2 mile, but quite a hill, and either directly down a busy road or, my preference, more like a mile along a bike path through the woods, and it feels pretty good on the whole. I'm dreading what might be in store, since it's old and clearly seen some hard use. I gave it minimal checks at the shop - slight play in the front bearing (which I think was mostly due to it being rather loosely clamped in the forks, and with the QR a bit tighter it's fine) - but I'm starting to think the bottom bracket might be pretty worn, and I've realised the chainset (or maybe just the big cog) is out of true.

The latter I imagine isn't too hard to fix, bend it back into position carefully, especially as these are steel and quite forgiving...? The BB scares me because of the horrors I've had with my Marinoni Special when it went - one cup is still siezed in the frame and refuses to budge after exhausting all the tricks of the trade, including holding the cup in its special tool in a vice and turning the frame. I was at the point of cutting through it, virtually into two halves to hammer inwards (someone on youtube had finally turned to this method), when I decided to get something else - a temporary runabout for communting on until I could continue with that project. I've got so far, but it's awkward and made out of unobtainium or something, so takes forever to cut.

It took about a day to realise that my beloved Marinoni - and the project to turn it into a tourer/wild-camper - wasn't worth the struggle, especially as it's far too big for me. I've yet to figure out what to do with it - obviously a lot of it is saleable, the original Campag fittings go for quite a bit, but whether to sell it as a project for restoration or just break it I'm not sure. Some of the bits are in a dreadful state (the original alloy pedals), but some are pretty good (54/42 crank set, brakes, levers, etc.).

As you said, Biospace, 27" wheels on a slender frame aren't too bad for offroad, and before the BB went I'd done a trip or two on some stony surfaces, but the gears killed me on hills (or I had to push) and the drops weren't much use either. I had plans to get smaller front cogs. In fact, when the BB died I thought it was perfect to spur me on to swap it for a smaller chainset and make a little bracket to drop the front changer to fit...until I tried to remove it.
marinoni special.jpg
The seat tubes were bent when I got it and I never bothered to straighten them. I changed the race wheels for something thicker after the front went down an expansion gap in a level crossing and stopped me dead, bending it and several parts of me. Should have sued the council. I made front pannier brackets out of bits of aluminium I had lying around and then loaded up with stupid amounts of gear.
marinoni special camping.jpg
Anyway, I'm getting off topic! When I investigate the state of the bottom bracket on the Marin, am I going to need to buy a special tool?

Zenitb, I enjoyed reading your blog. I'm also thinking about changing my seat post (preferably before mine breaks on the way to work) for a straight one like in your pic. I wasn't even sure if that was a thing, but I've not had much time to search. I think the extra inch further forward would help my arm position, although I'm also going to swap to wider bars with a bit of a backward curve for better wrist position. On the Marinoni I had one of those side-fitting seat clamps set forward instead of on the back of the seat post, and I changed the stem for a higher one.

I've still got a lot of affection for my Marinoni, and was proud of the fact it's a hand built frame by one of the best builders of racing frames (I'm told). I risked locking it up with a little chain and padlock for years, because it looked so tatty and old most bike thieves wouldn't give it a second look. I'm taking security a bit more seriously with the Marin, even though it's probably worth a lot less.
Dingdong
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by Dingdong »

+1 on the Schwalbe Marathon Green guard tyres, I've got them on my venerable Marin and it's the most fun bike for bombing about the trails, and these tyres never fail to impress.
peetee
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by peetee »

I still ride a ‘89 steel mountain bike with no suspension. I find it perfectly capable for most situations and, had my own frame (body) not aged appreciably in the intervening years, I would be using it in preference to my gravel and full-suspension bikes - it’s just a little too long to be comfortable for more than a couple of hours.
One thing that stands out in the 33 years of ownership is how far tyre capability has improved. Base-line quality tyres such as the Schwalbe Black Jack are vastly more grippy, fast rolling, hard wearing and puncture resistant than their predecessors. This reduces the performance gap between old and new tech and ensures that, providing you make and educated purchase, a 30 year old bike can still be exciting and rewarding to ride on the most testing of terrains.
The older I get the more I’m inclined to act my shoe size, not my age.
colin54
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by colin54 »

lettersquash wrote: 29 Jun 2022, 10:30pm

Anyway, I'm getting off topic! When I investigate the state of the bottom bracket on the Marin, am I going to need to buy a special tool?

Zenitb, I enjoyed reading your blog. I'm also thinking about changing my seat post (preferably before mine breaks on the way to work) for a straight one like in your pic. I wasn't even sure if that was a thing, but I've not had much time to search. I think the extra inch further forward would help my arm position, although I'm also going to swap to wider bars with a bit of a backward curve for better wrist position. On the Marinoni I had one of those side-fitting seat clamps set forward instead of on the back of the seat post, and I changed the stem for a higher one.

Hi, what makes you think your bottom bracket needs attention, is there play ?
Anyway, you will need two tools, one to remove the cranks, I don't know if the White Industries cranks (Sugino) have a different thread to Shimano,
I wouldn't imagine so - possibly some of the other contributors to this thread may confirm.
e.g. This cheap one from Spa Cycles
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m13b0s72p31 ... ler-YC216C
You will also need a bottom bracket (BB) tool-Shimano fit.
Again Spa do a cheap one (as you're near or in Harrogate I assume, but other makes of tool and suppliers are available !
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m13b0s72p31 ... ool-YC26BB
Be aware (if you don't remember from your other bike), that the drive side BB fixed cup is a left hand thread and undoes clockwise - towards the front of the bike, the non drive side loose cup has a normal right-hand thread and undoes anti-clockwise (still towards the front of the bike, assuming you have the spanner on the BB tool at the 12.0.clock position).
If the BB unit is U/S you will need to measure the width of it's spindle over the ends of the tapers to get the correct replacement and what the frame BB shell width is - 68mm or 73mm (most likely for a mountain bike). As mentioned below, grease before replacing a new unit in frame.
About changing your seat post, I'm not sure I would bother personally, it's unlikely to break, just make sure it's well greased periodically so that it doesn't seize in the frame, copper grease anti-seize is best, it interferes with the chemical reaction between the aluminium post and the steel frame which causes seizures. If you do decide to replace the seat post get, one with some set-back and measure the post's diameter to get a correct replacement, Kalloy do some inexpensive ones in various sizes.

I see up-thread that you are experiencing excess weight on your hands, and also reach issues, fitting a straight seat post will reduce your reach but will put ... more ... weight on your hands not less, getting your seat back as far as you can on the rails will take more weight ...off... your hands (try sliding over the back of the seat whilst riding to feel how this works, you should feel the weight transfer from the heel of the hand to the inside of your fingers the farther back you go; so the set back post you already have works to your advantage in this regard. To reduce the reach (and also get even more weight off your hands), a better way is to reduce the length of the handlebar stem and increase it's height, combining this with some handle bars with a bit of backwards sweep will also help. Aim to get the bars level or even a touch above seat height.
There are a couple of ways to achieve this, the most straightforward way would be to fit a short-reach replacement threaded riser quill stem to suit your existing 1&1/8'' threaded headset set-up. You could either get one with some angular adjustment so that you can find your most comfortable position or a fixed one - do a bit of measuring to see where you think your reach would be best.
Various adjustable and non-adjustable shown on this page from SJS Cycles for example.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stems-1-18-quill-threaded/
An alternate method is to fit a quill, to modern threadless steerer tube adaptor, then dial in your fit using either an adjustable, or fixed length/angle stem.
e.g.adaptor https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m9b109s88p1 ... ll-Adaptor
and there is a page of various stems here for example
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stems-1-18- ... ed/?page=2
Stems also need to match the diameters of handlebar you choose - there are two or three different sizes I think.
You talk up-thread somewhere about replacing your cantilever brakes with V brakes, be aware you would need to fit different brake levers to suit, as V brakes require a different amount of cable pull to work correctly, I can't see if you have combined gear and brake levers or if they are separate units from your pictures.
Nothing's simple is it ?!!
This may all feel a bit overwhelming, but it's fairly straightforward once you get you head around , all the little ' what bit fits with what' complications.
If you like how the bike rides and it's your size, it's certainly worth gradually improving it.
I've got a similar era Saracen which is a touch big for me but I made it work with adjustments to the stem similar to above. It cost me £35 initially and I spent a bit over a £100 on it to begin with and felt it was worthwhile.
I just got around to replacing the adjustable stem on mine yesterday with a fixed one.
P1170089 (2).JPG
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Biospace
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by Biospace »

Time spent setting up cantilever brakes is well-rewarded, when done right good cantis are superb. Many prefer V-brakes on account of their simpler adjustment but they can be harsh and unforgiving on anything other than a perfect rim. I prefer the aesthetics of the older design and have never had a problem with any lack of braking power.

Here's a guide, https://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html and these comments echo my feeling!
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lettersquash
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by lettersquash »

Wow, thanks colin54, that was a lot of very useful info and links. I am gradually getting my head around some of the bits that depend on other bits (with some resistance from my "use what you got" habit). I'm aware that sticking bits on that don't fit is problematic or even dangerous, stressing stems and so on, but I also sometimes use homemade shims to pad a joint. My dad passed on some of his engineering and metalurgy knowledge.

I'm baffled by the idea that putting the seat further back would take weight off my hands. I mean, yeah, I can see how that's true, but only at the expense of having a good grip on the bars. I can sit so far back that my fingertips are touching the bars, so no weight on my hands to speak of, but I ain't gonna control the bike that way. To maintain the required grasp of bars and comfortable use of brakes and gears, if I sit further back, I have to lean further forward, shifting my centre of gravity forward also, so more weight on my hands, no? Anyway, I'm prepared to try sliding the saddle back and giving it a few miles to try your idea.

That (reducing the reach) was my reason for thinking of a straight seat post instead of the swept back one, not the fear that it would snap (I was just a refering to zenitb's experience of the same post breaking).

I'm pleased to hear your suggestion of a shorter/higher stem. One of the variables of bike geometry and handling I've seen talked about is the correct distance between handlebars, front tyre contact point or whatnot, and I wondered if messing with the stem might cause issues, but as I say I've done a bit of that before and found it alright - you find out when you ride it anyway if it works. I currently feel this Marin Eldridge Grade (MEG, I'll call her) is skittery on the steering, but that's probably largely down to the very short bars.

I think someone else mentioned changing to V brakes (I forget who) and I did wonder briefly about that when I found mine confusing, but I think I just need to get my head round them more. (I also read Sheldon on the mechanical advantage issue and nearly asked them if they'd changed the levers as well - that may be why, as you say Biospace, some find them harsh and unforgiving - they didn't change the levers).

I do need more information about setting up these brakes, though (the original ones), if anyone knows of some detailed how-to. I figured out about the internal spring and tried re-setting it to how it was, but it's rather "slack" now. I've accommodated for that a bit by winding out the normal adjuster screw at the lever, which was all the way in before, but it still doesn't begin contact as soon as I'd like. I realise there's the set of the post the shoes are on, but they've not changed as far as I can see. I tried shortening the main cable at its stop, but the section from the button to there has an outer, which is at its limit and so shortening that section pulls the button out of center, I think. It's all pretty complicated. All I'd been trying to do originally was drop one of the shoes slightly as it looked like it was potentially going to rub on the tyre as it rotated into position, and I screwed up the whole sherbang! It's fine for now - front brake, bald tyre, cautious cyclist, and still room for more adjustment at the lever - I just want to get to know what I'm doing with it and put it right at some point. They feel perfect otherwise for power and variable control (not tried in the rain yet).

What makes me think there's a problem with the BB? It's a vibration, a grumble, I don't want to name it - a grinding sensation I felt through my feet in soft-soled trainers - rather than play (although I've not tested it properly). I just need to take the chain off to isolate it from possible chain and changer noises and I can probably get a better idea. But it's like that feeling you get when you spin a wheel and the bearing's gritty, and reminds me of the feeling of the Marinoni as it was starting to go south. I've had little time recently for testing stuff like this.

Glad to see those parts are cheap, and Spa Cycles is barely quarter of a mile away. I don't know what their mechanics are like, but their sales people (the ones I've met) don't inspire confidence the times I've been in. I did recently get a new tyre - I went for the bargain (I hope) Schwalbe marathon plus https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s142p4 ... Plus-HS348 because I'm a cheapskate, and only one for now (to try it, and because I'm a cheapskate - I probably can't tell if it's a good choice without a pair of them, which I probably need).

I've not fitted it yet. I tested the back friction yesterday as it was damp on the ride to work, and it starts sliding too early (that's the tyre with some minimal tread left!) - the front I don't test like that, cuz when it goes it's too hard to correct.

Many thanks! Lovin' this forum!
John
colin54
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by colin54 »

lettersquash wrote: 30 Jun 2022, 8:57pm

I'm baffled by the idea that putting the seat further back would take weight off my hands. I mean, yeah, I can see how that's true, but only at the expense of having a good grip on the bars. I can sit so far back that my fingertips are touching the bars, so no weight on my hands to speak of, but I ain't gonna control the bike that way. To maintain the required grasp of bars and comfortable use of brakes and gears,


Hi John, you're welcome.
I'm talking about putting the seat further back ...in combination... with a shorter/higher stem to get the reach correct.
Just out of interest, what size frame is it, 15 1/2'' or 17 1/2 seat tube ?

Those brakes look like you hold the tension on the spring (both sides) with a spanner and tighten the allen screws onto the fork bosses when you have the tension where you want it roughly and then you might have to fiddle with it to get it central once you adjust the brake cables - balancing the spring tension. The springs are a self contained little unit from looking at the the picture. They don't use any of the three little holes on brake posts on the fork do they ?. Picture from ebay, has anyone played with these who can help John out ?
marin lite brakes (2).jpg
marin lite brakes (2).jpg (35.73 KiB) Viewed 416 times
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lettersquash
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by lettersquash »

Yeah that's right, you turn the main body with its flats, hold that in position for the tension of the internal spring, and tighten the allen bolt to secure it. However, it's the return spring, of course, holding the thing away from the wheel until overridden by the brake cable tension when braking, and in order to bring it closer and start acting sooner, I want that with less tension - more just holds it even further away. The two sides can be adjusted to keep them working approximately at the same rate, but that doesn't make the action happen sooner. The only things that would do that, as far as I can tell, is setting the brake shoes further out on their posts towards the rim, or (presumably) shortening the cable to the brake lever. The shoes are about half way on those posts, so I could just close the gap there (but as the shoes wear - currently new - that will be needed more, and besides, it's a potential weak spot if it's a longer arm from the point where the friction is acting compared with them being set close to the unit). And, as I say, there are complications with shortening the main cable due to the fact that they are asymmetric safety cantilevers: the main cable goes to one side only where it's clamped (which has the outer cover between it and the button), while the other has a short cable with fixed stops and no cover.

I think I've figured out what's likely to be wrong. I found that trying to shorten the cable at the clamp only goes so far, because the outer is a fixed length. That confused me, because what that did was the outer pushed against the button and made it lopsided. But I think it's probably just the kink that's developed at the button needs to relax and then the cable will slide through and bend at a new position. The outer should indeed keep that side the same length, just as the fixed stops on the other side fix that length (those set the angle the cantilevers are pulled at, long and high or short and level), and all that can change if you pull the loose end through the stop and shorten the cable is the main part from the button up to the brake has to shorten. But the kink is tending to stop it doing that, maybe, staying where it was in the wire and pushing it out of whack. It'll probably sort itself out.
I'm talking about putting the seat further back ...in combination... with a shorter/higher stem to get the reach correct.
With respect, that's not what you said. You said I'd find there was less weight on my hands if I just slid back on the saddle without moving anything else.
Just out of interest, what size frame is it, 15 1/2'' or 17 1/2 seat tube ?
17 1/2, and I'm 5'6". Oh, that suggests another solution - daily traction sessions. :lol: I could have waited for a smaller bike, but it was too good an offer to pass up, and hopefully it's within comfortable tweaking distance. Actually, what you said about hand position is where the problem is - the bars are virtually straight, and that puts my wrists at an angle. In the good old days when people were sensible instead of driven by aesthetics and fashion, bikes had handlebars at a comfortable angle for the human hands. It's amazing they thought of it really. :wink: It's how most kids bikes are set up, and most of the commuters on the continent, and I don't see anything about banging up and down hillsides that says it's better to twist our grip inwards to accommodate a straight piece of bar. Then, I reckon, lots of folks put bar ends on to give them a break from the strain.

Edited to add - actually, I take the last bit back. I guess when you're riding aggressively, you hunch over the bars - in fact you're often up on the pedals, so you have more of a bend at the elbows, and a straight bar is probably better.
Biospace
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by Biospace »

lettersquash wrote: 30 Jun 2022, 8:57pmI currently feel this Marin Eldridge Grade (MEG, I'll call her) is skittery on the steering, but that's probably largely down to the very short bars.

I think someone else mentioned changing to V brakes (I forget who) and I did wonder briefly about that when I found mine confusing, but I think I just need to get my head round them more. (I also read Sheldon on the mechanical advantage issue and nearly asked them if they'd changed the levers as well - that may be why, as you say Biospace, some find them harsh and unforgiving - they didn't change the levers).

I do need more information about setting up these brakes, though (the original ones), if anyone knows of some detailed how-to. I figured out about the internal spring and tried re-setting it to how it was, but it's rather "slack" now. I've accommodated for that a bit by winding out the normal adjuster screw at the lever, which was all the way in before, but it still doesn't begin contact as soon as I'd like. I realise there's the set of the post the shoes are on, but they've not changed as far as I can see. I tried shortening the main cable at its stop, but the section from the button to there has an outer, which is at its limit and so shortening that section pulls the button out of center, I think. It's all pretty complicated.

'Skittery' steering could be down to a whole host of things, perhaps it's worth checking the headset isn't worn or needing greasing and adjusting up?

If there's too much cable pull before the pads contact the rim, adjust them on their posts a little closer. Those mudguards look to fitted so that there's no room for a wider angle, which would make them more effective. I can't offer any more than what's been said about the internal return spring adjuster, sorry - don't know where my old ones were put!

'V brakes' are harsher for several reasons (assuming correct levers are fitted), one being no loss of mechanical advantage as they move through their arc of travel, whereas with most cantis this diminishes (which is why they need careful setting up if they're going to be as strong as V brakes). There's also less damping of any oscillating friction levels (as with less than perfect braking surfaces) than with a canti set up, but that's a whole other topic!

If the bike is too long, clearly a shorter stem and traditional curved bars would both reduce the reach.
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lettersquash
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by lettersquash »

Biospace wrote: 1 Jul 2022, 2:23pm 'Skittery' steering could be down to a whole host of things, perhaps it's worth checking the headset isn't worn or needing greasing and adjusting up?
Yes, that's another thing to get round to. It's certainly rather easy to turn, which makes me slightly wary, but without play, which is reassuring.
'V brakes' are harsher for several reasons (assuming correct levers are fitted), one being no loss of mechanical advantage as they move through their arc of travel, whereas with most cantis this diminishes (which is why they need careful setting up if they're going to be as strong as V brakes). There's also less damping of any oscillating friction levels (as with less than perfect braking surfaces) than with a canti set up, but that's a whole other topic!
OK, you clearly know your stuff. I'll make do for now with "they stop me without any major issues"!
If the bike is too long, clearly a shorter stem and traditional curved bars would both reduce the reach.
Good to hear, thanks. I've stripped the crap off my boys' bike steel handlebars (400 g.) all ready to replace the Marin original - I'll check the diameter of where it needs to clamp first. I'm sure that will be enough in itself, but I can turn to a shorter/higher stem later when I research more about that.

I returned the £14 (reduced from £24) Schwalbe Marathon Plus I bought last week, which I'd not fitted obviously, put off by the warning that they are particularly tight to fit and also realising they've got a reflective band - neither are great for stealth camping trips - and decided to go even more cheapskate with a pair of £13 Halfords Essentials hybrids at 1.5”.

Hoping to fit those, frames for panniers, alarm and phone holder and go camping next week. I can see this thread is going to turn into my bike diary. 8)
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531colin
Posts: 16083
Joined: 4 Dec 2009, 6:56pm
Location: North Yorkshire

Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by 531colin »

try this;
Stand up straight, one foot slightly in front of the other.
Lean forward from the waist/hips to grasp imaginary handlebars.....at first your weight will come onto your front foot, lean further and you will topple forwards.
Now bend your knees, stick your bum out the back and lean forward again. the further back you stick your bum out, the further forward you can reach.

On your other bike, the bottom bracket bearing cup is bound to be hard.....its a bearing!
The good thing is if its really stuck you don't have to cut it out, you can crack it out.....really hard steel is brittle enough to crack.
Lie the frame on the ground, with the stuck bearing cup supported by a good big bit of wood. Put a cold chisel through the bottom bracket shell onto the stuck cup, and give it a good crack with a one pound hammer (to start with!)
I expect that will be enough to crack the cup, specially as you have already started cutting it. If not, give it another crack.
Pick the broken bits out of the bracket shell.
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