Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

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lettersquash
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by lettersquash »

Heck, my apologies to both of you for that mix up between colin54 and 531colin! :oops: Thanks slowster for pointing it out. Maybe I'll go back and try to untangle it sometime, but I'll just move on for now. I've read 531colin's setup advice, and I'll try working through from saddle position first principles - it's likely I just need a shorter stem to fix the reach issue, as has been said already. I think most of my criticism of the advice was due to the mix up.

I'm a relative newbie to the theory, although I've been tweaking riding positions on all my bikes for the last 45 years, and I take a great deal of notice of what's happening with my body and can therefore do most of the adjustments by trial and error. But I'm probably making a mistake in trying to shorten the reach by moving the saddle forward - it is, of course, a cheap (zero cost) method of doing so, but changes the position of my body over the cranks.

Sorry I've also used this thread to talk about two different bikes (ironically, with very similar names :wink: ) and for any confusion that's caused. I bought a Marin Eldridge Grade 1985, which I'm over the moon about despite bits of rust and other issues, and I've had a Marinoni Special (actually about the same age, maybe 1983) in bits since the bottom bracket died.

To add even more confusion, I mentioned that I was worried the BB might be worn on this "new" bike, which I'm hoping is just my paranoia that the bubble will burst and something awful is in store (although changing a BB wouldn't be anyway).

As for the seller - this is from Resurrection Bikes of Harrogate, a not-for-profit community organisation that accepts donated bikes and parts and sells them at very reasonable prices, supporting a couple of charities with the proceeds and attempting to waste nothing at all, keeping old bikes out of landfill, making it easy to move bikes on, and cheap to find a second hand bike. They are open about the fact that they don't do full repairs to everything, but check that bikes are in good working order and safe, and they're happy to fix anything within the first month that isn't right. I discovered one of the individual wires of the rear gear cable had snapped low down under the down tube (but not on the guides) as I was locking it up the day I got it home, phoned them, and they apologised for missing that and someone made a point of coming to the shop to meet me when it was meant to be closed to replace it (including cutting new outers) and check other issues I had with the cable routing. They aren't necessarily trained mechanics, but clearly are very used to working on bikes - he did this like I'd fit a new set of brake blocks, while I watched.

As far as I can tell, the bike - a triple-butted cromo frame - is fitted with all original parts other than maybe the saddle (not sure - I sold that anyway) and obviously tyres, weighing in at around 11 kilos. They'd fitted new brake blocks and the setup seemed almost perfect (I think one was just in danger of rubbing on the tyre as it closed, so I tweaked it). After the rear gear cable was changed the guy set those up, which I thought might be slighly off, but I've only just got used to the changers (two down on the rear with a full push?), and the out-of-true sprocket (the largest) might be contributing to that too. There's no noticable play in the BB, so it's not wobbling so much that the sprockets are off, it's obviously just been dropped on the outer cog and not been straightened.

I've had a lot of comments here about how great these bikes are, and it cost a grand total of £65. I'm not sure how much wear there might be left on the Bontrager front tyre - it's bald, but I don't know if it had much to start with. The rear has some, but it's not got a lot of life left and the sidewalls are beginning to develop very fine cracks, so another £26 has seen me with two new (cheapo) tyres. It's not rotting with steel worm, it's got superficial rust on the frame, no big deal.

I think the combined brakes and shifters are also original, but I'm not sure.

I can see that the removal of the Marinoni BB is an odd subject now - I did in fact abandon the project, but people keep giving suggestions on how to remove it. I suppose someone might buy the frame - after all, it's hand built by a very highly esteemed bike builder - and it's more likely to sell without a bit of stuck BB in it, so I'll probably have another go.

Sorry again for the confusing thread!
Biospace
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by Biospace »

lettersquash wrote: 7 Jul 2022, 12:03am I bought a Marin Eldridge Grade 1985, which I'm over the moon about despite bits of rust and other issues, and I've had a Marinoni Special (actually about the same age, maybe 1983) in bits since the bottom bracket died.
Just to try and help any further confusion, I'm fairly sure you're adding ten years to the age of your Eldridge Grade. The first Marins didn't emerge until 1986, called Madrone Trail.

They are fine bikes and I think most people would be more than happy with a working, straight one for £65. Looking forwards to the stealthy camping trip!
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lettersquash
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by lettersquash »

Biospace wrote: 7 Jul 2022, 12:14pm
lettersquash wrote: 7 Jul 2022, 12:03am I bought a Marin Eldridge Grade 1985, which I'm over the moon about despite bits of rust and other issues, and I've had a Marinoni Special (actually about the same age, maybe 1983) in bits since the bottom bracket died.
Just to try and help any further confusion, I'm fairly sure you're adding ten years to the age of your Eldridge Grade. The first Marins didn't emerge until 1986, called Madrone Trail.

They are fine bikes and I think most people would be more than happy with a working, straight one for £65. Looking forwards to the stealthy camping trip!
OMG, senior moments are getting too frequent! I'll get my coat. Yes, Marin Eldridge Grade 1995! Like this one in fact https://knowyourbike.com/marin/eldridge/grade/1995

It looks like I'm not the only one making elementary mistakes ... "The 1995 Marin Eldridge Grade is a 23 pound a mountain bike with a steel and chromoly Tange frame. The frame has a Champagne  Satin finish. The Eldridge Grade 1995 is a is a lighter bike at around 25 pounds." :lol:
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lettersquash
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Re: Marin Eldridge Grade - choice of new tyres, chain, general advice?

Post by lettersquash »

A bit of a follow-up on this, my Meg's Journal thread!

I'm quite pleased. I changed the bars (again) to an old steel one off a kid's bike that I had lying around, to get a shorter reach, longer bars and swept back at the grips for a better angle for my wrists. The last time I tried this, something wasn't fitting properly, and I thought it was the combined brake/gear control plastics fouling the curve in the bars. This time, I realised it was actually the new position was stretching the cables even more (they were too tight already). The front brake cable was pulling as a bare wire on the adjuster at the lever, and a right turn beyond 45 degrees on the wheel stretched the front deraileur cable and back brake cable around the head tube. No good at all.
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How the heck that came out upside down...ah well.

I have a bit of a phobia about changing cables, from previous attempts going wrong, trying to get the frayed end of a badly cut inner to thread through, etc., but I got to grips with it, replacing the outers on three of the four cables with longer ones, which required fitting longer inner cables as well, especially as the ends were damaged with clamping and so on. I didn't get any new parts, just recycled stuff from old bikes I've kept.
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Plenty loose.

Looking forward to a long ride to see if it's a better riding position, but just up and down the street it's promising. The only longish ride I've done is 17 miles, and it was pretty comfortable overall - no pain in my neck and shoulders, which has been a continual problem for me on bikes or trekking - but my wrists were sore with that straight bar, and I've got into riding most of the time just with the fleshy pads of my hands resting on top of the grips so my elbows can come in a bit.

I checked out my suspicion that the big chainring is bent, measuring from the teeth to a point on the frame, and it is - looks like it's been bumped in towards the frame opposite the crank a couple of mm, and there are some big scratches at that point presumably from the impact, so I'll get round to correcting that.

I gave the poor rusty heap at least a cursory clean - the first it's had - and discovered that the grinding feeling I got when riding, which I feared might be the bottom bracket, is in fact just a pedal bearing - when I just push it round at the crank itself, no grinding. Whew, easy fix. They were a pair of cheap old ones from yet another bike.
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