Repair Ortlieb panniers

[Bice]

I need to carry out some repairs to two Ortlieb panniers.

I have read this thread, which advises glue rather than stitching for some repairs: viewtopic.php?t=151591&hilit=repair+ortlieb+panniers

The issue with glue is that these fabrics are none too clean or clear of grease at this point, though I could rub them down with meths,

1/ The stiff plastic bar on one pannier that is at the top of the flap that folds down over the bag has come off, and the block cotton / polyester material edging has come away. There are holes in the plastic bar, and the plastic canvas of the bag, but lining it all up for repair will be serious and time consuming.

2/ The other pannier has splits on both sides where the material folds: right at the point where the rack attachment plastic bar is sited. These splits would be easier to sew.

Any comments on the above would be useful.

Also how easy is it to sew these and what thread is best? I think a stong needle will be needed too, and a thimble big enough for me.

With 2/ I could remove the entire inside and bars of the pannier and have the splits machine stitched. But that might be overkill.

I cannot see how a machine can be used on 1/. It would have to be done by hand.

Given the cost of these (and non-throw away preference) I would like to fix if possible.

These panniers are used virtually everyday for shopping and commuting.

[Gazelles]

Can you show pictures of the damaged section? Are these panniers made of shiny PVC fabric like most classic Ortlieb bags?

[simonineaston]

Broadly speaking, sewing = holes, glue not. But glue needs super clean surfaces. I'd probably shoot for glue, me. Although once you've bought suitable cleaner and the right glue, it could work out dear. A good compromise could be: sew up a split then glue on a patch.

[PH]

My advice for your repair would be the same as in the thread you've linked - stitched then glue over the stitching both to seal and to hold the stitching in place. I'd get someone with a heavy sewing machine to do it for you, a tarpaulin manufacture would be my preference as they're very familiar with that material, if you can't find one of those locally, try a cobbler. If you want to do it yourself, any heavy thread, as you're gluing over the top it needn't be waxed.
The plastic piece long the top is neither structural or required for waterproofing, it's there to aid the roll which is what provides the weather seal, I have waterproof roll top bags without any stiffener and they're fine. Repairing it will take time to line the holes up, but it isn't difficult. Up to you whether you replace the webbed edging, it serves no purpose other than making it look better. Alternatively, you could use some small nuts and bolts, even plastic ones, to reattach, or a few of those and stitch between.
The side splits will be harder to stitch by hand, obviously as the inside is out of view, still possible, but I think I'd get someone else to do it.
There may be appropriate glues, I haven't looked or tried, if the splits are on seams, it's likely the face material coming away from the backing, if you glue that, it is IMO likely to happen again.

[Bice]

Here are pics of the damage:

[Bice]

I have ordered some Stormsure glue and patches (mainly for other repairs).

[geomannie]

I have ordered some Stormsure glue and patches (mainly for other repairs).

I was just about to recommend Stormsure when I saw your last post. It should be perfect for this. I would also do a really good surface clean first and probably double up with stitching.

[boblo]

Have you spoken to Ortlieb?

[Galactic]

Ortlieb do repairs, just send your panniers to their workshop in Germany. Although I've never used them, I've heard from others that they charge reasonably and are conscientious in their work.

However, Brexit.

[Gazelles]

For PVC fabric there is a very good glueing method:
- clean surface thoroughy (especailly from grease an oil)
- apply 50/50 mixture of acetone and Uhu or Pattex transparent on both sides , transparent is important
- let evaporate solvents until dry
- apply again
- let evaporate again until dry
- align parts
- heat with heat gun to reactivate glue layer
- strongly press together, protect hands from heat

This gives a bullet proof glue seam for this special material. The method has been developed by guys who equip open folding kayaks for sea use. No signs of degradation after 10 years in my experience. It doesn't work on other materials like rubber fabric from Gumotex or Grabner boats.
Since your use has shown some weak spots of the design it might be an idea to reinforce these areas.

[Jdsk]

Ortlieb Repair Service:
https://www.ortlieb.com/media/downloads ... ice_UK.pdf

I don't know if this works at the moment or not.

Jonathan

[Jdsk]

Lancashire Sports Repairs:
https://lancashiresportsrepairs.co.uk/m ... r-service/

I don't know if they'll repair panniers or not.

Jonathan

[Mike Sales]

I found this effective on inflatable dinghies, fenders and boat rollers.

Two Part PVC Adhesive 250ml is suitable for all PVC Inflatables & Ribs and is used by Major Manufacturers, Ministry of Defence, etc. -Shelf life unopened tin 12 months -Mixed pot life 2-3 hours -Coverage 1 litre per 1 square metre

https://www.gaelforcemarine.co.uk/en/IB ... -1483.aspx

[Gazelles]

As far as I remember a two component PVC glue has not been part of the comparison of the folding kayak guys. So it might be as good or even better than the acetone-Pattex-transparent method.
Nice property of this method is that the material is dry before the glue is reactivated. This helps when large parts are assembled. The boat parts I made were about 2,5m x 0,7m. This won't matter for a small Ortlieb bag.

[interestedcp]

I have just recently repaired my very old Ortlieb Back Roll Classic panniers.

I didn't bother with the "plastic bar". As I understand it, it helps blocking water ingress in extreme conditions, were wind pressure can make the water travel along the fabric, even upside down and even through the folded top. The plastic bar apparently acts like a final dike against this flow.

I judged it too much trouble to sew through the holes of the thick plastic bar, and the bags are still perfectly waterproof in the conditions I ride in without it, so I just discarded it.

As for the textile edge material, I have previously just glued it in place with "soft PVC" glue on another Ortlieb pannier. That worked fine strength wise, but I used so much glue that it penetrated the textile so it could be seen as whitish streaks on the black fabric.
So this time I tried to use less glue and instead sew the edge textile for strength. I overdid the glue again, but the edge was surprisingly easy to hand sew. I used a "leather needle" and some "extra strong" thread, probably made of polyester.

As for the split seam, then I haven't had any experience with that, but besides gluing/sewing the split seam together, I would probably add a PVC patch to the repair on the inside, to work as a strain relief against poking objects carried in the bag.