Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

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WillCycle
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Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by WillCycle »

I'm cycling the bottom 700 miles of the Wild Atlantic Way, in Ireland, in May 2023.
My route starts at Cork (the city) and then divert slightly, so I can visit John Devoy (if you haven't read his book Quondam yet, you're missing out! https://johndevoyauthor.com/) then mostly following the coastline to Galway.
Strictly speaking, I'll be following Euro Velo 1 more than the WAW, but that's purely to get away from convoys of campervans and tourist coaches.
I'll mostly be wild camping (no, I don't need a lecture about that!) with 2 nights, and a rest day, spent on a formal camp site.

If you've cycled the route before, which were your favourite bits? Which bits didn't you like? If you had to do it again, what would you change?
Many thanks in advance!
The hill is not IN the way, the hill IS the way.
Jdsk
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Joined: 5 Mar 2019, 5:42pm

Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by Jdsk »

Never been by cycle, but horse-drawn caravan round the Dingle Peninsula was hilarious.

I hadn't come across John Devoy. Thanks.

"Round Ireland in Low Gear", Eric Newby:
https://cadhain.wordpress.com/2022/01/2 ... ric-newby/

Have fun.

Jonathan
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simonineaston
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Location: ...at a cricket ground

Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by simonineaston »

Round Ireland in Low Gear
On a bicycle supplied by Overbury's not far from me here in Bristol, I understand.... gone now, both Newby & Overbury's. :(
S
(on the look out for Armageddon, on board a Brompton nano & ever-changing Moultons)
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MrsHJ
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Location: Dartmouth, Devon.

Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by MrsHJ »

I've done a chunk of what is now the wild Atlantic way from Shannon to Achill about 10 years ago. If you open up some of the previous questions on Ireland there's some good info.

Honestly I loved it all except for may be the weather (there was a heatwave in the UK whereas Ireland was cool and a bit rainy). The different parts of Ireland started making sense to me as did the awesome pub culture. Some of the parts that stayed with me the most were the really difficult parts of Irish history (inevitably not reflecting well on the English by and large). Cycling up from Delphi lodge which is a beautiful valley that saw a tragic famine march was maybe the most distinctive. Achill was also great as was the burren and honestly the list could go on and on.
brianleach
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Location: Winchester, Hants

Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by brianleach »

https://www.hachette.co.uk/titles/edwar ... 857654083/

A slightly more offbeat cycle round Ireland. perhaps for the older more sedate cyclist!!!
raybo
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Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by raybo »

In September, 2022 I spent 2 weeks riding part of the Wild Atlantic Way. I actually started in Pembrokeshire, rode to Fishguard, took the ferry to Rosslare, rode to Wexford and to save time took the bus to Cork. I rode from Cork, down to Kinsale and followed the WAW on a couple peninsulas to Killarney, where I took a but to Galway for some riding up there. I wrote a detailed journal of this trip with lots of photos and tracks of my routes, if you are interested.

Some comments:

Ireland is not flat. Like some parts of the UK, there are lots of short, steep hills followed by a quick down and another steep hill. The first long day's ride in Ireland (Kinsale to Skibbereen) was 3400 feet of climbing without getting over 400 feet in elevation!

Parts of the WAW are on busy roads. I found the Irish drivers courteous as there is a law that drivers have to give cyclist 1 meter of clearance. There are signs on roads part of the bike routes that state this. That said, there is very little space on the side of the road for bikes on such roads. Very much like the UK roads.

After a couple days of following bike routes into the hills, I began riding the flatter, busier main roads instead of endless climbing over hills.

I found the Irish people to be one of the trip's highlights. They are friendly and helpful. They often will start conversations with strangers, which helps on a solo bike tour.

Connemarra is worth the effort to get to and ride around.

I greatly enjoyed the Ring of Beara and riding from Kenmare (a cute, but touristy village) to Killarney over Moll's Gap and the Black Valley. I would have liked to ride the Ring of Kerry, but that would have involved either skipping the Black Valley or spending a day in Killarney. It might be worth an extra day in Killarney to do that ride.

Riding from Galway up to Clifden requires some planning. I found someone to host me for the night and rode from Galway to her house and then to Leenane and then to Clifden. These 2 days were the best on the bike, even though there was hard rain one of the days.

Avoid the main roads out of Galway, if you can. There is a lot of water north of Galway and getting over them usually requires riding on the narrow, truck-filled main roads. While the drivers are courteous, it was a harrowing experience for me.

The rural roads in Ireland tend to be lined with high hedges that are hard to see over. Every now and then there are opening in these hedges where one can see the scenery, but much of the time one's view is of hedge-lined roads.

I found many of the ocean/bay views underwhelming as the land gently runs to the water where there are few waves. That said, the views from the hilltops was often stunning.

I had a great time in Ireland. I'm sure you will too!
Visit my on-line bike touring archive at www.biketouringtips.com
in4time
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Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by in4time »

I did a good part of the WAW last year but started in the north, riding from Derry. My ride coincided with a car rally so parts of my route were closed.
Generally speaking I enjoyed much of the riding even though I found it tough going in places.
Spectacular scenery in parts. The weather was unforgiving. Tent bound on Achil Island! My most enjoyable ride was from Westport to Galway over the hills on minor roads. Awesome and challenging.
Hospitality was great and most drivers were considerate.
Sadly I bailed at Cork as the weather was dreadful.
The Eire trains were great and getting the bike on not a problem, avoid the rush hour in town areas.

I’m sure you’ll have great fun and hope the winds are kind to you.
Nealc
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Joined: 6 Feb 2023, 6:46pm

Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by Nealc »

We've ridden the northern half somewhere between to waw and ev1. I believe the North is quieter which we appreciated as we had young kids trailered behind. We found it fantastic. It was just after covid so there was very few foreigners although domestic tourism was up.

Wild camping was fine on the coast. However it was very hard to be out of sight of all houses. No one seemed to mind. Inland was a bit harder as there is no formal land access I.e. footpaths. In the end we took to knocking on likely looking doors if we were stuck. Every one was very accommodating. Bins there are no BINS!
Norman H
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Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by Norman H »

I've cycled a fair bit of Ireland, including most of your proposed route at various times. What makes it special for me is not just the stunning scenery but the unique Irish culture and the generous hospitality of the Irish people. Don't be in too much of a hurry, the sooner you adjust to the pace of Irish rural life the better you will enjoy it. It's hard to single out particular highlights but I've a special fondness for the peninsulas of West Cork and Kerry. I've also ridden a lot in Co Clare, don't make the mistake of believing that the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren are all it has to offer. It's one of Irelands best kept secrets, especially if you have an interest in Irish musical culture.

As you've rightly identified, the WAW has attracted a lot of motorised traffic and you're wise to seek out the quieter back roads, for which the OS 1:50k Discovery maps are ideal. Incidentally these maps are now available in digital form from Memory Map whose App will run on both Android and Apple devices.

With regard to wild camping in Ireland, I've found asking permission often produces results and pubs are a good place to start inquiries. I've seldom if ever been refused and as stated above I've often been genuinely overwhelmed by the generosity and hospitality of the Irish people.
SA_SA_SA
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Joined: 31 Oct 2009, 1:46pm

Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by SA_SA_SA »

Jdsk wrote: 6 Feb 2023, 11:52am Never been by cycle, but horse-drawn caravan round the Dingle Peninsula was hilarious.

I hadn't come across John Devoy. Thanks.

"Round Ireland in Low Gear", Eric Newby:
https://cadhain.wordpress.com/2022/01/2 ... ric-newby/

Have fun.

Jonathan
I tbought that Eric Newby book would be better titled How not to cycle
"Round Ireland in Low Gear", even if an interesting book to read :), as he seemed to find a lot of misfortune, (punctures, overgrown brambles on canals, bringing panniers full of heavy guide books, etc) although a lot of the towpath surfaces should be better now as they are official greenways. The last grain race and his Love and war on the Apennines are his 2 most interesting books I've read.

Edited to add explanation
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Trek520
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Joined: 13 Mar 2023, 10:06pm

Re: Wild Atlantic Way - any tips?

Post by Trek520 »

I'm from Ireland and would agree with all the posta so far there spot on with there advice, Definitely bring rainproof and if yoy have any windproof gear pack that too. Long stretches of the WAW it's the wind which is the big enemy in places like dingle in co Kerry the trees are tilting to one side due to the wind but a great spin 👍
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