Rear wheel bearing

[Johnhewitson]

Hi, on my last ride I could feel something felt loose on my bike. when I got home I wobbled the wheels. Seems like the rear has movement. Will this just be a case of tightening something up or could it be a different issue? The bike hasn't done loads of miles, it's less than 2 years old. It's a Boardman 8.8 SLR.
Cheers,
John.

[zenitb]

Hi, on my last ride I could feel something felt loose on my bike. when I got home I wobbled the wheels. Seems like the rear has movement. Will this just be a case of tightening something up or could it be a different issue? The bike hasn't done loads of miles, it's less than 2 years old. It's a Boardman 8.8 SLR.
Cheers,
John.

I looked at the spec at https://www.boardmanbikes.com/gb_en/pro ... -2021.html

and it said Hubs: Formula DC-20 front, DC22 rear

Thats actually refreshingly honest. A lot of vendors conceal the source of their hub by putting their own branding on it.

Zooming in on the pic of the bike it looks like a quick release version

8.8 SLR rear hub zoomin

So probably this hub

Formula DC22 rear hub

Looks like Scott use these hubs as well (Formula hubs are on many brands, including my Specialized MTB) and I found a repair kit for the Scott one... just so I could see the internals.

DC22 repair kit showing bearing choices

From this I would say it was probably a "cup and cone" hub so probably easily adjustable without having to bash out "sealed bearings" (like some other Formula hubs, mine included)

EDIT: I also found an overall schematic of how the hub goes together

Official Formula DC22 exploded diagram

If you have not adjusted a cup and cone hub before you could look for the DC22 hub on YouTube, or, more easily, a half decent bike shop should be able to sort this out for you. If the bearings are still ok its a 10 minute job. If the bearings are dodgey though it could take longer. I am pretty certain this is the hub my bro-in-law had on his Boardman and in his case we had to change the cassette body so that was a longer job.

Plenty of other wise heads on here though ... lets see what others think ...

By the way, do you need guidance on how to adjust this yourself? Or have you done "cup and cone" bearings before ?

[richardfm]

Have you checked that the quick release skewer is properly tightened?

[freiston]

A wheel wobbling at the rim is likely to be one of three things:

• bearings/axle assembly
• not secured in the dropouts
• lack of spoke tension

The first two have been covered above. The third one will give movement to the rim when there is no movement to the hub at all. Sometimes it can be evidenced by loose spokes or even spokes sheared at the hub flange. If this is the issue, then I would recommend taking it to a bike shop.

[Johnhewitson]

Thanks for the replies, I've only just got round to it now. Definitely the bearing, think I'm just going to take it to a shop since I've never done it before and think it's best for this to be done properly.
Cheers.

[pwa]

Thanks for the replies, I've only just got round to it now. Definitely the bearing, think I'm just going to take it to a shop since I've never done it before and think it's best for this to be done properly.
Cheers.

Looking at zenitb's thorough post above, it is likely that you have cup-and-cone hubs that need a quick adjustment with some new grease. It could be a ten minute job. Alternatively the freehub body that the sprockets sit on could be loose, and that would take a little longer to fix.

[CyberKnight]

It takes a knack to get cup and cone hubs spot on so it is tight enough not to wobble but not over tight causing drag , I have been doing them for a number of years and i now have it down to an art but if you dont have the tools or the experience then it can be easier to let the LBS have it .