Mechanical Disc Brakes
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Mechanical Disc Brakes
Hi,
What are the best mechanical disc brakes?
I have Avid BB7 and could get them again, although they were released circa 11 years ago.
Currently, the BB7 SL is on a fairly good deal, paired with 140mm rotors can this caliper be used with 160mm, as that is what I have already on the bike?
Not sure if they have ever been updated or improved, there may be a newer model or make of mechanical disc brakes that are greatly improved.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, cheers.
What are the best mechanical disc brakes?
I have Avid BB7 and could get them again, although they were released circa 11 years ago.
Currently, the BB7 SL is on a fairly good deal, paired with 140mm rotors can this caliper be used with 160mm, as that is what I have already on the bike?
Not sure if they have ever been updated or improved, there may be a newer model or make of mechanical disc brakes that are greatly improved.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, cheers.
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
What levers are you looking to use them with - flat bar or dropped? BB7s are impressive with Avid’s own flat bar levers. They are lacklustre with current (NSSLR) drop bar STIs.
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Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
Thanks for the reply...
They are for a road bike.
The bike in question was built with BB5s and Shimano Ultegra originally by Planet X, The previous owner had it converted as in the picture, but I want to put it back to drops. I have all the original parts that it left the shop with, but, not the BB5 calipers that it came with. Hence my post.
They are for a road bike.
The bike in question was built with BB5s and Shimano Ultegra originally by Planet X, The previous owner had it converted as in the picture, but I want to put it back to drops. I have all the original parts that it left the shop with, but, not the BB5 calipers that it came with. Hence my post.
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
Unless your Ultegra STIs are old - ie with exposed loops of gear cable ‘washing lines’ - then I couldn’t recommend Avid BBs. I had mine running with 10 speed 105 levers (which are ‘NSSLR’) and there was a dangerous lack of ‘bite’ to them. After reading some of the threads on this forum where Brucey explained why the mechanics of that setup was wrong I acquired some very old but almost NOS Ultegra levers that were pre NSSLR and the improvement was massive. They’re great brakes with the right levers.
If you do fit them them then yes they can be used with 160 rotors - or any other size that the bike can take. If fact 180s would make up for the errors in mechanical advantage. 140s would be suicidal.
Others may comment on alternative options for you - but I have no direct experience of them. From what I read here all are flawed in some way - typically because the bearings are too small and seize up over time. You may need new levers
If you do fit them them then yes they can be used with 160 rotors - or any other size that the bike can take. If fact 180s would make up for the errors in mechanical advantage. 140s would be suicidal.
Others may comment on alternative options for you - but I have no direct experience of them. From what I read here all are flawed in some way - typically because the bearings are too small and seize up over time. You may need new levers
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
It is the frame and fork that determine what disc sizes may be used, i.e. the smallest sized disc that can be used on the mounting points for the frame/fork, and the manufacturer's stated maximum disc size. 160mm is typically the maximum for a road fork.ehelifecycle wrote: ↑27 May 2023, 9:10pm can this caliper be used with 160mm, as that is what I have already on the bike
Probably the obvious option with NSSLR levers would be TRP Spyre calipers. I think TRP Hy-Rd mechanical/hydraulic will also work, but cost more. The best calipers are probably the Paul Components Klamper in the version designed for NSSLR brakes, but they are very expensive.
Note that current models of TRP calipers are designed for flat mount. If your frame has post mount fittings, you will need to buy an appropriate adapter, find someone with stock of older post mount versions, e.g. Spa Cycles, or buy second hand.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m7b0s102p0/ ... isc-Brakes
I would strongly advise you to use compressionless cable with the new brakes, e.g. https://www.highonbikes.com/products/ja ... 7361610848.
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Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
Just replaced my BB7's with hydraulics, the rear brake (long cable run) has always been poor with BB7's. The improvement in power and modulation is astonishing. Never going back
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Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
Thanks for your input, they are ultegra 11 speed, built mid 2018 so I guess if they were a fresh pair, whatever variant was doing the rounds at that point.TheBomber wrote: ↑28 May 2023, 9:11am Unless your Ultegra STIs are old - ie with exposed loops of gear cable ‘washing lines’ - then I couldn’t recommend Avid BBs. I had mine running with 10 speed 105 levers (which are ‘NSSLR’) and there was a dangerous lack of ‘bite’ to them. After reading some of the threads on this forum where Brucey explained why the mechanics of that setup was wrong I acquired some very old but almost NOS Ultegra levers that were pre NSSLR and the improvement was massive. They’re great brakes with the right levers.
If you do fit them them then yes they can be used with 160 rotors - or any other size that the bike can take. If fact 180s would make up for the errors in mechanical advantage. 140s would be suicidal.
Others may comment on alternative options for you - but I have no direct experience of them. From what I read here all are flawed in some way - typically because the bearings are too small and seize up over time. You may need new levers
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
Not much help after reading the posts but in response to "What are the best mechanical disc brakes?" - I have heard that Paul Components Klampers are the best mechanical disc brakes but they are very expensive. But I've never used disc brakes of any type, so I can't speak personally.
Disclaimer: Treat what I say with caution and if possible, wait for someone with more knowledge and experience to contribute.
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
All 11s Shimano STIs will be NSSLR so it looks like your mechanical options are as listed by Slowster. Otherwise you’re looking at hydraulic.
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
Some years ago I replaced my MTB’s front brake with a BB7 calliper, plus new lever for its straight bars. I recall that the calliper came in two types, for staight-bar levers and drop-bar levers. The former type requires significantly more cable pull than the latter. If you go back to drop levers I’d expect trouble - the pads will have to be adjusted very close and the braking performance will be horrible. (All this will depend upon the relative cable pull of the two types of lever which is unknown to me, but needs to be considered.)
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
I've run BB7 for years and they aren't impressive compared to hydraulics, or the old Dura-Ace 7800 rim brakes I had on briefly a while back on a bike (my favourite brakes of all).
We'll always be together, together on electric bikes.
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
One consideration is availability of good replacement pads. My mechanical disk pads seem to last for ages (which in part might be because much of my cycling is in East Anglia). But for my bike with Hayes CX Expert callipers 3rd party pads are not great and OEM are a nightmare - the company that imports the callipers to the UK does not import pads so last couple of times I've had to order pads from Germany (probably even harder now after Brexit.
My Tadpole bent has BB7s and I'm very happy with them. I can lock up the wheels without problem so I can apply more than adequate stopping force so I can't see what benefit hydraulics would give me (but I can see negative impacts from hydraulics for me).
Ian
My Tadpole bent has BB7s and I'm very happy with them. I can lock up the wheels without problem so I can apply more than adequate stopping force so I can't see what benefit hydraulics would give me (but I can see negative impacts from hydraulics for me).
Ian
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
The road version of BB7 works perfectly with modern drop levers. They are designed for such. The MTB version doesn't. The only comparable ones, performance wise are the TRP ones that move both pads or the TRP cable actuated hydros.
My BB7's, when running at their best are as good as all my hydro set ups. Of course they are much more fussy tha the hydros to keep at their best.
My BB7's, when running at their best are as good as all my hydro set ups. Of course they are much more fussy tha the hydros to keep at their best.
Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
I fitted a TRP Spyre to the rear of my Moulton last year.
I have been impressed with the power, especially in the wet. I have to say that the caliper was powerful enough, but I really don't want to replace the rim and rebuilt the wheel.
I haven't needed to change the pads yet, but it seems to be a faff compared with calipers. Refitting the rear wheel can be slightly more complicated. The pads are standard Shimano pattern so there is plenty of choice and they're easily available
A couple of tips if you fit mechanical disk brakes
1. Make sure you use compression less outer cabling.
2. Make sure the ends of the outer are flat and cut square, and use metal ferrules.
3. Use good quality pre stretched inner cables.
I have been impressed with the power, especially in the wet. I have to say that the caliper was powerful enough, but I really don't want to replace the rim and rebuilt the wheel.
I haven't needed to change the pads yet, but it seems to be a faff compared with calipers. Refitting the rear wheel can be slightly more complicated. The pads are standard Shimano pattern so there is plenty of choice and they're easily available
A couple of tips if you fit mechanical disk brakes
1. Make sure you use compression less outer cabling.
2. Make sure the ends of the outer are flat and cut square, and use metal ferrules.
3. Use good quality pre stretched inner cables.
- plancashire
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Re: Mechanical Disc Brakes
I have Avid BB7 S road with SRAM drop levers and Shimano cables to 180mm front 160mm rear rotors. They work fine for me, even with a load.
I am NOT a cyclist. I enjoy riding a bike for utility, commuting, fitness and touring on tout terrain Rohloff, Brompton M3 and Wester Ross 354 plus a Burley Travoy trailer.